I realize to many of you who have been at this forum for awhile that this is probably "Old News" but, I'm relatively new and haven't been able to find much on the subject yet.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

Are there ways out there to correct the back pressure condition that cause the fuel pump nozzles to shut off continually when filling the tanks?<o></o>

<o></o>

Thanks,<o></o>

Jim<o></o>

 

Check out: http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html about halfway down. " High Speed Filler Neck for $40.00" Should have you fixed right up. I can fill at the big truck pumps, wide open, until almost full.

 

Plowhand -

The truck already has the ability to fill from a 1" nozzle, which I think is considered the commercial quick fill style, however the same problem exist. The rear tank is worse than the front one but they both do it nearly all the time.
Is the kit you are referring to something else other than the larger nozzle hole in the filler neck?

The link is very interesting, Thanks!

Jim

 

I'm not sure about the tanks on the older trucks, but on the 99+ the tank's vent tube extends about 5-6" down into the tank. On those trucks it is neccessary to drop the tank and reach in there with a cut off tool. Chopping the vent tube down to 2" or less allows the tank to fill almost completely before it shuts off.

Something else to check since the problem is worse on one tank is the filler hose routing over the frame. If the fill tube is squashed down too much it could be the cause of the pressure build up.

 

Thanks Scott, I'll check it out!

 

Reelman, Yes, it is a modified venting system.

This mod removes the inner fill tube (factory set up is a fill tube inside the large tube, air is supposed to vent around the fill tube and then out past the filler nozzle) It also removes the rollover valve and replaces it with a 5/8" hose to an added elbow close to the top of the filler neck (which will be past the inserted filler nozzle). I put a "T" in the 5/8" hose near the frame and then re-installed my rollover (vent) valve so that the tank can breath when capped.

Like I said I use the big nozzles, wide open, until almost full. Then it kicks off, and it takes about 6-7 small sqeezes to top it off to the top of the filler neck.

 

Sounds like the answer to the problem, I will see what I can do about obtaining and installing.....thanks for all your help!

 

To buy a kit: http://www.transferflow.com/ford_fillneck_kits.html bottom of the page, about $180 per tank. I did the mod myself, one afternoon per tank, while I drove on the other tank. Not a hard mod (the hardest part was getting the insert out of the filler neck) just obtain the parts listed, run one tank close to empty, drop it, replace the parts, weld the elbow into the filler neck, put it all back in. Alot cheaper than $180 per tank.

 

Have to ask: Where did you obtain the "parts list?"

 

About 1/2 way thru the section on the filler neck mod on Baz's site. Read it and then adapt it how you need to. This is the stuff I used.

2 fittings for 5/8” hose that can be welded/brazed to the filler neck. (90 degree metal elbows that have threads on one end and have a 5/8” hose barb on the other end.)

8’ of 5/8” I.D. fuel line.

2 nylon/plastic 90 degree elbows. (Again, one end will have a 5/8” hose barb, while the other will need 3/4" NPT threads.)

4 little hose clamps to fit over the 5/8” fuel line.

If you want to relocate the rollover valve you will also need: 2 nylon/plastic 5/8" hose barb "T"s; & 6 more hose clamps.

Some rubber strips for shimming the rear fuel tank down for clearance, (I used several pieces of old tractor tire inner tube).

I also used RTV around the eblow in the tank to prevent leaks.

 

Thanks....much!