Can anyone give me some pointers on finding the centerline on my 48 F-1 front axle? I'm trying to install a Fatman IFS crossmember and I don't have the bump stops as a guide. Is there an original frame hole that can be measured from both sides?

How do I ensure squareness in the front crossmember since front end narrows down and tapers at point of axle centerline?

Also, what would be the best method for stick welding boxing plates? Using what rod? Is a small gap necessary, or how large a gap is needed?

TIA!

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 21-Aug-01 AT 10:21 AM (EST)[/font][p]RogerDat,
I am also going to install the Fatman Fab Mustang 2 kit on my 50 F1. I am still sandblasting the frame and plan to start this again when the cooler weather gets here in Tulsa.
Did you find out what you needed for the center line on your frame? You should be able to locate the bumpstop holes and use them. I also have the installation documentation and vhs tape for my kit. Let me know if you still need help. As for the welding I don't think stick welding will do. As I recall the manual and tape mention Mig or Tig welding. Let me know how the install is going?

-Ron
harmdiggy(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Well, actually I didn't find out what I needed... But I took an educated guess at where I thought it should be. My problem with locating the bump stop holes was/is that I don't know which holes they are. I've been told that they are the only 3/8 holes in the frame, but they are all elongated on my frame to the point where I just can't tell anymore. If you can give me another method to figure out which ones they are, I'd sure appreciate it.

Anyway, I'm in progress on the stick welding this week. Maybe Mig/Tig would be better, but there isn't any reason I can think of why stick shouldn't work (and that's what I've got). I need the twist/flex support of the boxing plates, so some ductility in the welds should be okay.


rodger@ihateclowns.com