What are they worth?
#1
What are they worth?
I am currently looking at 2 Ford Trucks a '63 and a '65 F100's. The '63 has lots of rust on the floors but the rest of the truck is pretty solid. It has a 390 engine in it that hasn't run in 3 years, and an automatic. The '65's kick panel is rusted out on both sides, the hood is rusted out also. Other than that the body is in excellent condition, on the other hand, the engine doesn't run. I think I can get the '63 for $100, and they are asking $375 for the '65. Both engines may be shot, or need complete restoration. I was wondering if these are good prices for these, or should I just forget about it? I think the owners aren't being completely honest with me. Any thoughts?
#2
I paid 150$ for two doors, two fenders and two hood hinges - so a whole truck for 100$ is probably a good deal assuming the rust isn't to terrible.
I paid 650$ for my '62 8 years ago - and it needed two doors, two fenders and two hood hinges (go figure ) (it also needed bedwood, tailgate, anything chrome, lots of engine parts, etc)...
I think I got screwed on the initial purchase
Check my gallery for what 8 years and more receipts than I care to add up will get you...
I paid 650$ for my '62 8 years ago - and it needed two doors, two fenders and two hood hinges (go figure ) (it also needed bedwood, tailgate, anything chrome, lots of engine parts, etc)...
I think I got screwed on the initial purchase
Check my gallery for what 8 years and more receipts than I care to add up will get you...
Last edited by 62stepside; 12-18-2006 at 01:31 PM.
#3
Sfanch: First, let me be the first to WELCOME you to FTE. You will find no better site to get answers.
As to the worth, I cannot answer that question well, but I have a concern: the '63 didn't come with a 390, or any other FE engine for that matter. So, either you are being bamboozled as to what engine isn't in there, or, it has been converted.
The engine that should be there would be a 292 Y-block V-8 or a six.
If there is a 390 in there , you should look really close at the engine mounts, the accelerator, clutch and transmission linkages, the driveline alignment and the like.
You should also be aware that the FE engines cannot be told apart from the outside. You have to check the stroke or disassemble the engine to tell for sure. My money would be on it being a 352 rather than a 390.
Good luck, and again, WELCOME to FTE!
As to the worth, I cannot answer that question well, but I have a concern: the '63 didn't come with a 390, or any other FE engine for that matter. So, either you are being bamboozled as to what engine isn't in there, or, it has been converted.
The engine that should be there would be a 292 Y-block V-8 or a six.
If there is a 390 in there , you should look really close at the engine mounts, the accelerator, clutch and transmission linkages, the driveline alignment and the like.
You should also be aware that the FE engines cannot be told apart from the outside. You have to check the stroke or disassemble the engine to tell for sure. My money would be on it being a 352 rather than a 390.
Good luck, and again, WELCOME to FTE!
#4
Two very different trucks, so decide first on what you intend to do with it. The '63 is a solid front axle truck, so disc brakes will be much more expensive to fit. The cab is more cramped with the steering column coming through the floor and a lower roof. As Banjo said, the 390 is not original, so check what kind of butcher job may have been done to 'fit' it. Also as he said, there are endless 390's that are really 352's or 360's. Never trust a seller on that.
The '65 should be Twin-I-Beam, disc brake swap is a bolt-on. You can also stick that body on a newer frame fairly easily to get power brakes, steering, discs and a newer drivetrain. Not so with the '63.
You can buy floors, but they are work to install. I'd check a little further for rust: bottom of the radiator support, cab roof perimeter, cab mounts, etc. The '65 inner fenders are also noted for rotting out near the hinges. A rusty hood if not repairable will be a real problem for you. They are very hard to find and not reproduced.
Buy the least rusty truck you can. Anything that makes it go, stop and turn is easily fixed. Rust isn't.
The '65 should be Twin-I-Beam, disc brake swap is a bolt-on. You can also stick that body on a newer frame fairly easily to get power brakes, steering, discs and a newer drivetrain. Not so with the '63.
You can buy floors, but they are work to install. I'd check a little further for rust: bottom of the radiator support, cab roof perimeter, cab mounts, etc. The '65 inner fenders are also noted for rotting out near the hinges. A rusty hood if not repairable will be a real problem for you. They are very hard to find and not reproduced.
Buy the least rusty truck you can. Anything that makes it go, stop and turn is easily fixed. Rust isn't.
#5
Reading back, my first post might not have been as helpful as it could have been... As said earlier - welcome to the forum!
I'd agree with David - decide what you want to do with the truck(s). If your looking for a rebuildable project buy them both for parts and salvage the best components to make a good starting platform... The hood, fenders and doors are interchangeable.
If your looking for something to start driving right away, pass on these two and find a running/driving/legal truck... Taking something that has been sitting for a long time and "getting it running" and putting it on the road can be dangerous - the gremlins start working on things when you let them sit.
My first "old" truck was a '71 ford that was sort-of running/driving... It started and ran, and I could drive it around the block. 800$ and a few hundred in parts I considered "safety items": u-joints, bearing repack, brakes (new MC, slave cylinders, shoes, rubber lines), make all the lights work, change all the fluids, and FULLY inspect the steering system. Nothing is scarier than having your front tires get a mind of their own. I drove that truck while I repainted it one part at a time for 10,000 miles and sold it for about 2500$ - I still miss that truck.
It will be a learning experience either way you go. My second truck is still a work in progress, but it is nearing completion.
Post what you want to do with the truck and we can better help you decide.
Tyson
I'd agree with David - decide what you want to do with the truck(s). If your looking for a rebuildable project buy them both for parts and salvage the best components to make a good starting platform... The hood, fenders and doors are interchangeable.
If your looking for something to start driving right away, pass on these two and find a running/driving/legal truck... Taking something that has been sitting for a long time and "getting it running" and putting it on the road can be dangerous - the gremlins start working on things when you let them sit.
My first "old" truck was a '71 ford that was sort-of running/driving... It started and ran, and I could drive it around the block. 800$ and a few hundred in parts I considered "safety items": u-joints, bearing repack, brakes (new MC, slave cylinders, shoes, rubber lines), make all the lights work, change all the fluids, and FULLY inspect the steering system. Nothing is scarier than having your front tires get a mind of their own. I drove that truck while I repainted it one part at a time for 10,000 miles and sold it for about 2500$ - I still miss that truck.
It will be a learning experience either way you go. My second truck is still a work in progress, but it is nearing completion.
Post what you want to do with the truck and we can better help you decide.
Tyson
#7
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#8
Welcome to FTE; if time is on your hand; view all previous post in this forum, relating to these two very different Slicks. Both have excellent heritage's; but as previous members posted, alot of issue with a 63 verses a 65; Also undercarriage rust at cab mount; floor braces etc, can haunt you. If these trucks are buy now or never; then think real hard before letting the green fly.
Just adding .02 cent's..
Mitch
Just adding .02 cent's..
Mitch
#9
Whatever you decide, spare parts are worth having around. I bought my 66 for 1,500. And was reasonably happy, a recent paint job, shift kit, trans work, decent tires and a 390 all made it a decent deal. Then bought a running 65 for 300.oo. It also had a 390,an fmx and parts that weren't rusty in the same places mine were. After being T-boned twice and basicly all the parts I needed to fix it, that made it a great deal. Since then, what was left was broken down and put in boxes. I've kept a rough inventory of parts I've used and money saved...it comes in handy with the wife when I need something for my truck. Whatever YOU do, good luck and have fun.
#12
Is the '63 a Unibody? That could make a difference. I have a '66 F100 and a '62 F100 Uni and the '66 is much easier to work on. I have a lot of trouble finding engine parts etc. for the 262 I6, but I just can't bring myself to sell it, I just can't do it. As soon as I get the '62 running properly I'll start replacing the driver's side floorpan (only rust on the truck besides the tailgate hinges).
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