I have an old farm truck which recently has had an issue with the key/ignition assembly. It felt like something broke(got real loose feeling), and when I turned the key through it's various positions it never engaged the starter...no spring feel in the key. As the trucks a beater farm vehicle... and I replaced the key ignition module with the same results, it seems like it may be time for the old toggle and push button start trick. Any and all insight into the easiest fastest way to start this thing with the key assembly messed up would be most appreciated. I've had a load of shavings on the truck for a couple of weeks and the wife would like them at the barn.

 

Actuator cam is likely broken. They are about 10 dollars and a couple hours labor to replace.

I dont have the wiring schematic that old to tell you how to hot wire it. Sorry.

Im sure someone else here will.

 

What you can do to get it started is take the shrouds off around the column. Look on top of the column near the dash cluster, and you should see a rod. Take some pliers and grab the rod and try to push it down. This will activate the ignition switch.

A guy I work with has an 89, and he has been doing this for the past year to start his truck. He just never has time to fix it right.

One thing I don't have quite a handle on that he has to do, is push in some sort of interlock before he pushes down on the rod. I think it may release the steering wheel, but I am not sure. He may have to do this because he has his lock cylinder completely out. If you still have your lock cylinder in, you may just have to turn the key to unlock the steering wheel, and then push down on the rod with pliers.

 

i went ou this afternoon and with your sage advice I immediately got the truch started. Franklin...if you think to ask your buddy about the second part of his starting method I'd be interested. when I throw that rod to the forward position it doesn't engage the starter, I had to jump the starter across the posts on the solenoid. worst case scenario is the pushbutton start for phase 2 of the start operation after sliding the rod forward to the run position. I guess all my messing around could have messed up the switch in the solenoid but it was not ever an issue befoe the key/ignition assembly brakage occurred. I can't see my wife smiling about having to go under the hood to jump the solenoid, but as well as she pushes my buttons the other fix should suffice. thanks again guys.

todd

 

It just happens the guy I was talking about, came by my house today to get it fixed. He had to show me the total procedure so I could move it around my property.

You take some pliers(he uses duckbill, a little bit wider than needle nose), and grab the rod and push it down. You soon run out of room, so you let go and get another bite on the rod, and with a good bit of force, you push again, and it will crank and start.

Then the next thing you do on his truck is take a screwdriver and on the passenger side of the column, right underneath the area where you push the rod, there is a little aluminum piece up in the column. You take the screwdriver and push this piece back toward the steering wheel. What this does is unlock the shifter(if you have an automatic) so you can pull the lever down in drive.

When you want to shut the truck down, make sure you pull the rod all the way back to turn the truck off. I would leave the radio on so you can make sure you are in off and not in run or accessory position.