Hello,

I have heard of home acid dipping solutions made from over the counter products. Which products are best and has anyone have suggestions on it's use.

Thankyou,
myfirst57

 

Tom Brownell's book, "How to Restore your Ford Pickup 1946-1967" has several pages describing home made acid dip using a barrel, water and lye with heat applied to the solution to speed up the process. I have never tried it, because how do you get rid of 55 gallons of dangerous toxic chemicals?

 

What situations would you want to dip parts in acid? Is this necessary to properly prep them for ....what?

Charles

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 07-Sep-01 AT 11:50 PM (EST)[/font][p]I am looking to prepare various small suspension parts on my 57' f-100, Hangers, u-bolts, etc. I live Washington, lots of moisture, lots or suface rust. I was looking at making a smaller acid dip process, not quite the 55 gallon amount.

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 10-Sep-01 AT 09:19 AM (EST)[/font][p]You might want to consider a small bead blasting cabinet if you have a compressor.

Charles

 

Consider trying electrolytic rust removal. Do a web search for "electrolytic rust removal" and you should find an article by a fellow, I think his name is Kimsey, describing the process. I have been using the process for awhile now on antique farm tractor parts with great success. I have the same rust problem you have, I am located near Enumclaw, WA. The best part is that there is little or no concern about waste disposal, as you end up with a solution of really dirty, rusty water and some washing soda. I found washing soda in my local Fred Meyer store.

 

Thanks guys, I'll go looking.

 

Dont overlook the molasses treatment for parts that are grease free.
Not something for those in an urban or maybe even some suburbs but it does work wonders...particularly on old flathead blocks and other old iron.

 

Molasses treatment??? Please tell us more! Sounds interesting!

 

Here is a link to what IHC300 was talking about. Eric
http://www.oldengine.org/members/billd/electrol.htm

 

Thankyou for the link, I will put this process to use.

 

Small buckets of Carburator "dip" cleaner are available at most auto parts stores and will clean the heck outta small hangers and bolts and such, but is very corrosive so wear gloves!

 

Use liquid molasses, available for about $15 for 5 gal at feed and grain stores.
Use a 4:1 ratio; 4 parts water to 1 part molasses.
Immerse the part and cover. Check weekly; in moderate climates it takes about 3 weeks to completely derust a flathead block, particularly the water passages come out scale free.
All grease must be removed first, and also remove paint if you want a uniform finish.
Gets pretty ripe so store well away from the house!
In hot climates it works a lot faster and if left too long makes a real mess.
Reusable several times, and then pour over the lawn, great fertilizer.
Remove the part and rinse off the gunk with a hose, some use a mild soap solution and then clean water.
Protect the part from new rust by your favorite method.

 

If you go to the following site, you'll see where an Australian fellow used molasses to dip his entire body! Check out use of a child's plastic wading pool!

http://www.users.bigpond.com/glenn_percy/hotrod.htm

Find the link for stripping the body.

I personally use Blue Lightning derusting solution.

Tim in Burien, WA
'56 F100 Project in Process
Featured on my website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman

 

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Tim:

You mind telling us a little more about the "Blue Lightning"? I don't recall ever hearing that brand name. TIA.
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