Well, I found my inspection book right in the last place i looked! I will post up here some of what seem to be the most common issues/ questions relating to the PA inspection standards. If you have any other questions, reply here and I can hopefully answer them.
1. Distance from frame to body floor may not exceed 4 inches
2. Some part of the bumper must be within 16-30 inches off the ground
Lifts and big tires-
1. See #2 above
2. Fender flares may be no wider than 3 inches
3. The tires cannot be turned to the stop without interference (TTB boys!)
4. The steering stops allow the tires to rub on the frame or chassis parts
5. Wheel spacers may be no more than 1/4 inch thick
6. NO lift blocks on front axle (You should know better!)
7. Shackles may be no more than 2" taller than factory
8. NO rear blocks more than 5" over factory
9. The tires tread extends past the fender or fender flares
And to Trucks in General
1. The tailgate must open and close securely, when questionable, remove, because thats ok.
2. You'll need mudflaps on a flatbed (thats the easiest way to put it)
3. Fenders are not same size and type as factory (technically pre-runner style fenders would fail)
4. Bumpers may not be wider than the body line
5. Auxiliary driving lamps can not work with the low beams, or standalone
6. Loose parts may not hang off the vehicle( that includes your loose door trim, just tear it off, ugly don't fail!)
7. No springs poking through the seat
8. Defroster must be operable
9. The battery must have a hold down (yes, your bungee cord fails!)
10. No muffler cutouts
11. Exhaust must discharge outside of the body (including truck beds!) Unless it was dumped underneath from the factory.
12. Auto trans must hold in park
13. Speedometer must work
14. Parking brake must work
15. The vehicle must be able to go forward and reverse under it's own power
Lots of this is subjective of the person inspecting your truck, but anything here you COULD be failed for. The book also has some grey areas. The inspector needs to use these guidelines and his own personal judgement. If you have any more questions, post them up.
Can I request that this get sticky'd for future reference?
Last edited by Ferguson65; 12-11-2006 at 08:04 PM.
4x4 does not mean anything relating to bumper height. It is rated by passenger cars and trucks/SUV's. That is regardless of the drive type. There are weight ratings that define how high the bumper may be. Here they are.
They are considered off road only, and they have covers on them from the factory, thats why they work when they do. But if you get caught with them uncovered on the road, you'll either get a warning or just get to pay up. Notice "uncovered" they don't need to be on to get fined, just uncovered.
They are little tougher to see than the rollbar or brushguard mounted ones, so you may have that on your side. But a friend of mine from school that lived in upper bucks county got harassed by the cops a whole lot about the ones on his rollbar.
There are two major problems with after market lights.
Those that have no beam forming lenses and those that do.
Even with the beam forming, if the operator dosn't take the time to aim them, the oncoming vehichles have a big problem.
IMO that's why most need to be covered while on state roads.
I have a pair of aux fogs mounted under the tow loops and have a switched relay so I can run either stock driving or the Fogs. I suppose there is some rule that even makes that illegal. They won't work on hi beams but that's not where I use them in fog anyways.
In addition I have extra side..markers..that..only..operate..with..the.. parklites or headlites and flash with the regular turns as well as 4 ways. This is all done with minuture relays at the two front corners. Reason I put them on is when a car is along side of you they can't see a turn indication when that close. Notice only European cars mostly have side lites. Now only only have the option of having them in the mirrors.
Last edited by Bluegrass 7; 12-26-2006 at 09:54 PM.
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