Instrument Cluster Illumination Bulb Replacement
#1
Instrument Cluster Illumination Bulb Replacement
I have several bulbs burnt out on my 1998 F-150 automatic 4x4's instrument cluster, which includes the tach.
I stopped by Auto Zone today, and picked up 5 packs of bulbs, (10 bulbs in all). I also picked up a Haynes manual, which makes the instrument cluster removal sound like a simple procedure.
But my question is: Just how difficult is it?
Also, how many bulbs are there in all? While I'm in there, I want to replace them all as preventive maintenance.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Nightrain
I stopped by Auto Zone today, and picked up 5 packs of bulbs, (10 bulbs in all). I also picked up a Haynes manual, which makes the instrument cluster removal sound like a simple procedure.
But my question is: Just how difficult is it?
Also, how many bulbs are there in all? While I'm in there, I want to replace them all as preventive maintenance.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Nightrain
#2
This is not a tough job but patience is needed.
Replacing them all is a good idea.
1. Disconnect battery. For the health of your guages DO NOT skip this step!!!!
2. Turn key to "ON" and pull trans to low gear to get the stick out of the way.
3. pop off the horse shoe shaped trim piece above the shifter.
4. Using a 7mm socket(I use my 1/4" rachet set). Remove the trim peice that "canopies" the instrument cluster. Three of the screws go up from the bottom side right above the tach and speedo. some go straight in and were covered by the horse shoe piece. Here we get to the only real tricky part of this job. One of the screws you must take out is hidden by the headlight switch.
The head light switch removal will be very easy the SECOND time you do it.
There are probably easier ways but this is how I do it.
Stop by Home Depot and get two free items: a paint stirrer stick for a one gallon can and also one of the big ones for a five gallon can.
With your fingertips pull out on the trim peice just far enough to get the five gallon stirrer between it and the main part of the dash, position it so the top of the stick is just below the top of the headlight switch, the other end of the stick should rest on the open door. With a flashlight look into the crack at the top of the headlight switch, you will see a small round peice about 1/8" in diameter and less than 1/4 long, it will be pointing straight up. This is the lock for the switch, you should have enough room to use the smaller paint stick to push this lock to the right(toward steering wheel) The headlight switch should pull out on the left side first then on the right as it "hinges" out. Remove the larger paint stick now to give more slack to the wires. You could have as many as three wire connecters. There is a red locking device on the larger connecters, pull out locks and remove wiring plugs. Simple. Now you can take out that one pesky screw and finish removing the trim.
I found an easier way to remove the headlight switch:
You remove ****, re-install 180degrees out, then turn switch backwards and it releases the switch assembly from the dash. And watch you don't hurt the shift indicator cable. Thats about it.
5. Carefully pop out the gear position indicator, it has a lock on each side and is easy to remove if you do it right. The indicator will stay in the truck while you work on the cluster.
6. Remove the screws that hold the instrument cluster to the dash.
7. pull the clust out just enough to reach behind it and diconnect the three wiring harnesses. Dont worry about mixing them up cause they are idiot proof (they will only go in one slot).
8. The cluster should now come out and you can lay it on the bench and get to work on the bulbs.
9. I can not remember how many bulbs there are but I think I had to make two trips to get either more or a different type. So there might be two types of bulbs.
Putting in the bulbs is just a matter of twisting out the holders a quarter or a half turn?? If you get this far I have no worries that you will be able to swap out all the bulbs.
If you hit a road block give me a buzz.
Replacing them all is a good idea.
1. Disconnect battery. For the health of your guages DO NOT skip this step!!!!
2. Turn key to "ON" and pull trans to low gear to get the stick out of the way.
3. pop off the horse shoe shaped trim piece above the shifter.
4. Using a 7mm socket(I use my 1/4" rachet set). Remove the trim peice that "canopies" the instrument cluster. Three of the screws go up from the bottom side right above the tach and speedo. some go straight in and were covered by the horse shoe piece. Here we get to the only real tricky part of this job. One of the screws you must take out is hidden by the headlight switch.
The head light switch removal will be very easy the SECOND time you do it.
There are probably easier ways but this is how I do it.
Stop by Home Depot and get two free items: a paint stirrer stick for a one gallon can and also one of the big ones for a five gallon can.
With your fingertips pull out on the trim peice just far enough to get the five gallon stirrer between it and the main part of the dash, position it so the top of the stick is just below the top of the headlight switch, the other end of the stick should rest on the open door. With a flashlight look into the crack at the top of the headlight switch, you will see a small round peice about 1/8" in diameter and less than 1/4 long, it will be pointing straight up. This is the lock for the switch, you should have enough room to use the smaller paint stick to push this lock to the right(toward steering wheel) The headlight switch should pull out on the left side first then on the right as it "hinges" out. Remove the larger paint stick now to give more slack to the wires. You could have as many as three wire connecters. There is a red locking device on the larger connecters, pull out locks and remove wiring plugs. Simple. Now you can take out that one pesky screw and finish removing the trim.
I found an easier way to remove the headlight switch:
You remove ****, re-install 180degrees out, then turn switch backwards and it releases the switch assembly from the dash. And watch you don't hurt the shift indicator cable. Thats about it.
5. Carefully pop out the gear position indicator, it has a lock on each side and is easy to remove if you do it right. The indicator will stay in the truck while you work on the cluster.
6. Remove the screws that hold the instrument cluster to the dash.
7. pull the clust out just enough to reach behind it and diconnect the three wiring harnesses. Dont worry about mixing them up cause they are idiot proof (they will only go in one slot).
8. The cluster should now come out and you can lay it on the bench and get to work on the bulbs.
9. I can not remember how many bulbs there are but I think I had to make two trips to get either more or a different type. So there might be two types of bulbs.
Putting in the bulbs is just a matter of twisting out the holders a quarter or a half turn?? If you get this far I have no worries that you will be able to swap out all the bulbs.
If you hit a road block give me a buzz.
Last edited by shrekga; 12-10-2006 at 10:54 PM. Reason: additional info
#3
I see you edited your post.
To clarify about the headlight switch.
1. disconnect battery
2. turn headlight switch all the way on and oull out like turning on foglights.
3. you will notice a small slot at the base of the **** (at the end that is usually down when the lights are off) insert a small screwdriver or other small poking device into this slot, there is a tab inside that needs to be disengaged, and pull the **** off the switch.
4. rotate **** 180 degrees and reinstall it.
5. turn **** counterclockwise back to off.
6. turn **** fully clockwise and pull out to remove switch assembly.
7. disconnect electrical connectors.
To clarify about the headlight switch.
1. disconnect battery
2. turn headlight switch all the way on and oull out like turning on foglights.
3. you will notice a small slot at the base of the **** (at the end that is usually down when the lights are off) insert a small screwdriver or other small poking device into this slot, there is a tab inside that needs to be disengaged, and pull the **** off the switch.
4. rotate **** 180 degrees and reinstall it.
5. turn **** counterclockwise back to off.
6. turn **** fully clockwise and pull out to remove switch assembly.
7. disconnect electrical connectors.
#4
I did my 1998 a little while ago. Here are some pics http://picasaweb.google.com/DoofusOf...htsReplacement
Here is thread for it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...f-150-a-2.html
Here is thread for it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...f-150-a-2.html
#5
#6
Originally Posted by DoofusOfTheDay
I did my 1998 a little while ago. Here are some pics http://picasaweb.google.com/DoofusOf...htsReplacement
Here is thread for it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...f-150-a-2.html
Here is thread for it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...f-150-a-2.html
#7
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