Brake light pressure switch
#16
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Are you using a hydrovac? or remote booster? I don't see how the pressure would be any different otherwise.
FOR SURE -- NO compression fittings!! Hardware store brass fittings are also likely to be suspect.
FOR SURE -- NO compression fittings!! Hardware store brass fittings are also likely to be suspect.
If it were purely a pressure problem, the brake lights would never work. My problem is that they work with a new pressure switch for about 2 weeks and then, nothing. Checked the switch with an ohm meter while my wife operates the brakes and it doesn't close. I have the correct voltage to the switch.
It acts like the internal mechanics of the switch are breaking down.
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#20
There is a good reason they no longer use pressure switches for brake lights. I would sugggest installing a mechanical switch that will be activated by the moving of the brake pedal.
Also whether or not the switch is used with 6 volts or 12 volts is not the problem. The switch doesn't care. Adding a relay would only seem to add another potential component to fail. A relay should only be needed if you have so many lights it exceeds the rating of the switch. The standard two or three lamps should not be a problem.
Also whether or not the switch is used with 6 volts or 12 volts is not the problem. The switch doesn't care. Adding a relay would only seem to add another potential component to fail. A relay should only be needed if you have so many lights it exceeds the rating of the switch. The standard two or three lamps should not be a problem.
#21
Originally Posted by barbsbuddy
There is a good reason they no longer use pressure switches for brake lights. I would sugggest installing a mechanical switch that will be activated by the moving of the brake pedal.
Also whether or not the switch is used with 6 volts or 12 volts is not the problem. The switch doesn't care. Adding a relay would only seem to add another potential component to fail. A relay should only be needed if you have so many lights it exceeds the rating of the switch. The standard two or three lamps should not be a problem.
Also whether or not the switch is used with 6 volts or 12 volts is not the problem. The switch doesn't care. Adding a relay would only seem to add another potential component to fail. A relay should only be needed if you have so many lights it exceeds the rating of the switch. The standard two or three lamps should not be a problem.
Doug, why don't you hook up a test lead from the battery (+), with a 10 amp (maybe 15) circuit breaker in it, and connect that to the wire heading off to the brake lights. See if it pops the breaker, smokes, or there are any other dramatic results. Leave them on for 5 minutes, see if there's anything getting warm...
By the way, you do have stock brakes, don't you? No booster?
#22
Originally Posted by doug51f1
I'm running a stock Master Cylinder with the original style pressure switch for the brake lights. I have had to replace the switch three times in under three months. Has anyone else had this problem?
I wouldn't think that the amperage is too high on the contacts, since my truck is 12 volt (half the current/twice the volts).
I wouldn't think that the amperage is too high on the contacts, since my truck is 12 volt (half the current/twice the volts).
#23
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Doug, why don't you hook up a test lead from the battery (+), with a 10 amp (maybe 15) circuit breaker in it, and connect that to the wire heading off to the brake lights. See if it pops the breaker, smokes, or there are any other dramatic results. Leave them on for 5 minutes, see if there's anything getting warm...
By the way, you do have stock brakes, don't you? No booster?
By the way, you do have stock brakes, don't you? No booster?
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