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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2006, 01:41 PM
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Y-block dual exhaust question

I see the car manifolds like these on eBay all the time:

Click the image to open in full size.

But as I understand it, the left-side manifold interferes with the steering box. Here's my question ... would it be possible to switch the two manifolds so that they both dump downward on the front end?
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Old 12-08-2006, 03:10 PM
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Couldn't say for sure on a '60, but I've seen it done on '53-'56 trucks. Been a while but I don't recall anything major, maybe moving fuel lines. Probably the most common low-buck dual setup (I've seen) is to simply take the left truck manifold & fab a big, sweeping curve up to it, & capping the crossover flange on the right manifold.

Car manifolds are cheap enough that it might be worth buying a pair to try it out. Dunno that you'll gain much performance, the car manifolds are all fairly restrictive, but it can't be any worse than the crossover.
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Old 12-08-2006, 06:13 PM
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Hi, I had a 64 truck with the big curved pipe coming off the driver's side where the crossover pipe was....real UGLY but functional.
On my 54 Ford I went the route of Sanderson's Headers...perfect fit on my 239 motor, cleared both the stock column and steering as well as the upgrade of the Ididit column with a Toyota steering gear. The power steering lines are close but clear with no problems.
Sometimes paying a few dollars more for the ready-made headers will save alot of frustration and time.

Good luck with your ride. Ed
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Old 12-09-2006, 04:16 PM
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You are right about the pass car left hand manifold running into the steering box.

I've seen using the stock left hand exhaust with a big sweeping curve for duals, too. I always called that a "Gabriel's Horn" : the thing looks like a refugee from a tuba factory.

Addtionally, you'll note that those stock manifolds are not particularly generous in the passage size. '57 car manifolds look like they'd flow much better than a Gabriel's Horn, tho I'll readily admit that I've never flowed either setup nor have I seen flow numbers on them.

Using a right hand manifold on the left side was a path I'd considered, too. However, using measurements from the manifolds that I had, I found that the right hand manifold on the left side would pass much closer to the fuel pump than I felt comfortable with, and some trimming of the inner fender seemed to be in order, too.

If you are switching both sides (putting the left manifold on the right side, too) I'm guessing you will also be facing issues with pipe to generator/alternator clearance.

My choice worked like this:

1. Crossover manifold & Gabriel's Horn: cheapest, ugliest, probably worst flow. Puts a lot of pipe surface under the hood, adding to the heat already there.

2. Right hand manifold on the left side: adds the cost of the manifold to #1 above, less heat under the hood, looks cleaner. Some clearance issues with the fuel pump & inner fender.

3. Headers: more expensive than #2, (but not so much as one would think: bending the custom pipes for #1 & #2 will be more expensive than the straightforward hookup of headers, offsetting the cost somewhat). Better flowing. Maybe a bit noisier than cast iron manifolds and perhaps a little less durable.

4. Ram's Horns: Most expensive. Works most like a stock setup (essentially, it is one). Probably the same flow as '57 pass car manifolds -- less than headers. (I went this route. Paid $100 for my Ram's Horns and thought it was robbery! But, the price was competitive with headers at the time.)

So, it is sort of a "pays your money and takes your choice" situation. If all you care about is having duals, #1 might fill your need. If you want something "cleaner," maybe #3 or #4 would be more in order.
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Old 12-09-2006, 06:20 PM
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OK,
Everything wild bunch said is right on.

I wanted to add a couple more options to the mix.

First you could keep the passinger side manifold and block it off and for the drivers side buy ONE ramshorn manifold.

Second, (and I have NEVER done this yet) I was told if you take a set of small block chev headders, stay with me. OK a Y block bolt pattern has the straight across pattern as a SB CH, however the Y has a bolt in between the 2 center ports and the cheb does not. I was told to cut the header flange and spread wide enough for the Y block center bolt and the ports line right up.

Once again I have never done this and I wish someone would so I'd know for sure if it works. Cheby headers are like almost free used!

Kevin Bigwin
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Old 12-10-2006, 05:43 PM
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cheby parts on a ford? didn't eve tell adam not to that after the apple thing?
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Old 12-10-2006, 06:23 PM
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Tim,

Good to see you around, it's been a long time!

Kevin,

I heard that a while back & half-**** tried it on a set on skanky Hedmans. I think it might work on regular cheap headers....these Hedmans were the 14 gauge "towing" HD headers. I ended up kinking two tubes, & then the two "flanges" started to form an angle. I ground the holes larger to accomodate the bolts & got it started, but I guarantee it would have leaked like a sieve.

I think it would have worked better with a set of 16 gauge headers & a torch. If I run across a cheap (i.e. free) set I'll try again.

I sort of straightened the Hedmans & sold 'em for a few more $$$ than I paid. Gotta love Chevys.
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Old 12-17-2006, 05:40 PM
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william.a.vose
You all probably won't believe this, but, on my 1958 F100 into which I installed a 312 Thunderbird Special engine, I used 57 Tbird manifolds. The left side requred a little grinding to clear the 3 speed shift linkage, but cleared the steering column nicely. It seems the early birds had a similar clearance issue so the left manifold went in behind the head then down
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:40 AM
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Bill V,

I believe you as the t bird manifolds are different, but, The are just as pricey as the ram horn manifolds. With grinding the tbird manifold now it is only good for you as the tbird guys are a little over the rop when it comes to "factory correct items"

If you can find t bird manifolds cheap then by all means its a go too.

Kevin Bigwin
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Old 12-24-2006, 08:10 AM
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Does anybody know the part numbers of the T-bird exhaust manifolds off the top of your head?
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Old 12-25-2006, 12:18 AM
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Stock truck manifolds are cheap and readily available. Get a 2nd passanger side manifold and cut off the flange end from the last exhaust port back. Cut off the back of the drivers manifold and weld the passanger side to it, making sure it clears everything. Looks relatively stock and works great, and you can still use the crossover pipe, since IMO it looks cool

Look at my gallery to see what I mean.
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Old 12-25-2006, 02:14 AM
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manifolds

Hi from australia
just did what you are thinking of do they are thunder bird manifolds
bolted i turn them around two nices big bends i stop at the rear of the cab two nices muffer and little turn down tail piples i do have a f 700 but lots of room do it you will never look back
sound,s better
go,s better
better on fuel
motor looks cleaner
my be on for 4 years just do it
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Old 12-25-2006, 08:31 AM
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I looked this morning, unfortunately my parts book only goes back to 1960. Sorry, but Merry Christmas everyone.
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Old 12-25-2006, 08:56 AM
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57-63 Parts Book: Std manifolds

L/S manifold: B5A-9431-B This is the same as a passenger car

R/S manifold: C2TZ-9430-D

Fit all the Y blocks 1957-64.
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Old 12-25-2006, 02:19 PM
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I think he was looking for the 57 Tbird PNs.
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Old 12-25-2006, 02:19 PM
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