If I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
These are instructions for the obs, it might work for yours
AuxiliaryIdleController
AIC MOD
by Sparky Ok to start off with you will have to go to Radio Shack or similar store and get some parts.
Single Pole Single Throw Switch. Radio Shack pt# 275-612
5K Linear Taper Potentiometer. Radio Shack pt# 271-1714
Linear PART # for the 2K is Radio Shack pt# 900-8587
2 Single Pole Double Throw Auto Relays Radio Shack pt# 900-2391
2 Wiring Harness Plugs Radio Shack pt# 900-2396
18 Gauge Wire
SOLDER
Wire Ties
Butt Connectors
Soldering Gun
Safety Glasses
STEP 1 Switches
Find a power source that is with the key.
Run a wire from there to one side of the switch.
From the other side of the switch run a wire to the coil terminal of both relays
From the other side coil terminals on the relays run a wire to the parking break switch wire. (There is only one wire on the parking brake.)
STEP 2 Idle Validation Switch (IVS)
As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it. The wires are taped together carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires. I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires. (There should be a red/orange with and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.)
Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it. The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays.
The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS, you will just tap onto this wire so you don’t need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.
STEP 3 The other Relay and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it. Remove the tape to expose the wires. (There should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire.)
Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch. Hook the end up that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side of the other relay.
Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay.
Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) of the relay and go to the left terminal on the POT.
Now take a wire from the center terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire.
Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy
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97 F-250 7.3 PSD 4x4, 5 speed, DP tuner, 4" exhaust, shimmed FPR, 6637, EBPV brake, Auto Meter guages, South Bend OFE, BDP stage 1's, HPX, 08 diff cover, CCV Mod, Adrenaline HPOP, 300,000 miles
Man! I love this site! This info is what i questioned about 6 months ago.
Thanks ForemanES
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2002 F350 7.3 Ltr. 6sp.DRW 170K miles, 13' service body W/2200 # Venco hoist, Air compressor,10KW welder/generator, Air Horns, ceiling mtd CB W/250W Amp, Exhaust brake, Aux. Idle Control and Vac. operated hot water control.
1952 F1 flathead Project Truck
(It's got eight cylinders and I use them all )
On the 01's the wire colors have changed. PM me with an email address and i can send you a schematic of the 1 and 2 plug varieties of the pedal connector.
On the IVS it looks like the Red orange is now red/yellow stripe and the brown is now red with light green stripe
On the TPS unless the have moved the wires the colors are the same
Thanks amiller93 for jumping in and "updating" the wire color. I figured it would be close to the same thing. I have to give you guys the site this came from, even if it is for the older trucks. There is A LOT of info on there and some might help you guys out with cheap mod instructions. (click here)
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97 F-250 7.3 PSD 4x4, 5 speed, DP tuner, 4" exhaust, shimmed FPR, 6637, EBPV brake, Auto Meter guages, South Bend OFE, BDP stage 1's, HPX, 08 diff cover, CCV Mod, Adrenaline HPOP, 300,000 miles
How to activate the High idle function on a 2004 Powerstroke.
This will increase the engine idle speed to 1200rpm as long as the transmission is in Park or Neutral and your foot is not on the brake pedal.
This info is valid for 2004 Powerstrokes with the automatic transmission. I'm not sure if the manual transmission PCM's have the PTO idle up function software installed.
This procedure connects two body harness wires together with a switch. When the switch is activated battery power from one wire is sent to the PTO control wire telling the PCM to raise the idle speed to 1200rpm.
Here is what you do.
Look up under the dash between the steering column and the parking brake pedal. You will find a wiring harness behind the parking brake handle with a bunch of wires coming out of the harness that have the ends sealed off with charcoal?? colored heat shrink tubing.
If your not sure what you are looking at, look at the three wiring harnesses that come through the firewall to the left of the steering column shaft into the passenger compartment. The top harness is big, the middle harness is smaller than the top harness and the last harness closest to the floor is smaller still. The wire you are looking for comes out of the the middle harness where the harness routes up to the dash directly behind the parking brake handle.
One of these wires will be Light Blue with a Yellow stripe. This is the PTO function wire from the PCM. Placing battery power (battery positive) on this wire will command the PCM to raise the idle speed to 1200rpm as long as the transmission is in Park or Neutral and the service brake is released, meaning your foot is not on the brake pedal and the brake lights are not activated.
The other wire you are looking for is a White wire with a Light Blue stripe. This one is also easy to find. While looking under the dash direct your attention to the black OBD II datalink connector mounted to the lower part of the dash to the right of the steering column. This connector is what a service tech uses to hook up a scan tool which is needed to communicate with the vehicle PCM in order to check engine sensor data, engine trouble codes and to REFLASH your PCM.
Anyway, look at this black connector and follow the wiring harness from the plug back up and inside the dash. Along the harness not too far up from the plug you will find the White wire with a Light Blue stripe included in the bundle of wires but the wire just stops short of the connector. Yes the wire does not plug into any one of the ports of the datalink connector.
This White wire with a Light Blue stipe is your positive battery source wire that you will connect to the Light Blue with a Yellow stripe PTO wire through a switch.
Purchase some wire, a switch that has a illuminating paddle switch lever and some female crimp connectors and some butt connectors.
Use the wire and butt connectors to extend these vehicle wires so you can mount the switch under the dash to the right of the OBD II datalink connector. Crimp the female crimp connectors on the end of each wire so the wires could plug into the male terminals of the switch.
So far you have used two wires connected to the switch. The illuminating paddle switch has three terminals. The last terminal is a ground connection that is used so that when the switch is turned on the switch paddle illuminates.
it look easier then making a aux. idle control from but i tried it and it wouldnt work lol
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