You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Hey guys/gals, I have a 94 F150 2wd with worn out axle pivot bushings. From what I can tell these are pressed into the I-Beam. What is the best method of replacing them, and when the bolt is removed from the bushing, what direction (up or down) is the axle (I-Beam) going to swing? I have air tools, impact wrench, air chisel, etc and plenty of room to work. I need all the advice I can get. I just got through replacing the Radius arm bushings. What a PITA, but I cheated and cut the rivets.
Thanks for the info, sounds like its not going to be as bad as I thought, as I am eventualy going to have to do 3 more F150's and one Ranger after this one. Two of the F150's are mine, a short cab short box 91, a SCab 93, my dad's 93 F150 SCab, 94 SCab 150, and his 88 Ranger SCab 4x4. Again Thanks for the reply
The bracket on the Passenger side, next to the converter is all bolts. But mine is a '96 so this may be why.
The Drivers side is still all rivits. What size bolts did you use?
Did you use factory rubber or some aftermarket polyurathane?
Also, have you replaced the rubber at the truck end (as opposed to the wheel end) of the I beams?
__________________
1996 F250 crew cab/short bed, 4x4, auto PSD, about 150k miles, 6637 air filter with IAC sensor mount mod, interior grab handles above all four doors, stainless window vents, Aeroforce Interceptor (AKA scan gauge) behind the seat in case I need it, 3/8" shim under the drive shaft carrier bearing has eliminated the take-off shudder, remote door locks work with engine running mod.
Got em replaced, I used a jack under the I-Beam where it attaches to the frame and removed the bolt. I then lowered the I-Beam and pressed out the rubber bushing with a ball joint press which left the steel outer in the I-Beam. I carefully cut out the steel outer from the I-Beam with an air chisel. I then pressed the new bushing into the I-Beam and raised it into position whith the floor jack. It did not line up as the wheel and beam had moved outward. I used a wire stretcher to pull it back into position and installed the bolt. repeated procedure for the other side. It drives like a new truck. Thanks for the tip on using a ball joint press.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
but I cheated and cut the rivets. 
