'73 Ranchero Instrument Panel: No Backlight
#1
'73 Ranchero Instrument Panel: No Backlight
Hey everyone, I recently bought a '73 Ranchero and it seems that the backlights for the instrument panel/guages do not work (none light up). Are there any fuses I should look at, or at worst, how would I go about replacing the headlamp/dimmer switch?
I have volume 1-5 (except #3) of the service manuals and unfortunately #3 is the one that I would need for interior/electrical issues. Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks!
I have volume 1-5 (except #3) of the service manuals and unfortunately #3 is the one that I would need for interior/electrical issues. Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks!
#2
One simple thing you might try first, is to work the light dimmer function on your
headlight switch (rotating the ****) I had a 73 with the same problem, and the
rheostat had become a bit corroded, and rotating it back and forth about 20 to
30 times wiped off some of it, and it started to work. you don't have to have the
lights on to do this, just turn them on afterward to check whether or not they
function then. If they do you can then remove the switch to fully clean or
replace it.
headlight switch (rotating the ****) I had a 73 with the same problem, and the
rheostat had become a bit corroded, and rotating it back and forth about 20 to
30 times wiped off some of it, and it started to work. you don't have to have the
lights on to do this, just turn them on afterward to check whether or not they
function then. If they do you can then remove the switch to fully clean or
replace it.
#3
Originally Posted by fl1a
One simple thing you might try first, is to work the light dimmer function on your
headlight switch (rotating the ****) I had a 73 with the same problem, and the
rheostat had become a bit corroded, and rotating it back and forth about 20 to
30 times wiped off some of it, and it started to work. you don't have to have the
lights on to do this, just turn them on afterward to check whether or not they
function then. If they do you can then remove the switch to fully clean or
replace it.
headlight switch (rotating the ****) I had a 73 with the same problem, and the
rheostat had become a bit corroded, and rotating it back and forth about 20 to
30 times wiped off some of it, and it started to work. you don't have to have the
lights on to do this, just turn them on afterward to check whether or not they
function then. If they do you can then remove the switch to fully clean or
replace it.
When I pull it to the park light I hear a click sound. Headlights are functioning and so are the tailights however.
Last edited by Defcon888; 12-05-2006 at 06:30 PM.
#4
I don't have a copy of my manual with me right now, but I can put directions up here tomorrow. As I remember, you will have to remove the instrument cluster to
get to it. If you do it right, it is not that hard. I want to make sure I give you the
right info, as there are a few breakables involved.
get to it. If you do it right, it is not that hard. I want to make sure I give you the
right info, as there are a few breakables involved.
#5
#6
Originally Posted by fl1a
I don't have a copy of my manual with me right now, but I can put directions up here tomorrow. As I remember, you will have to remove the instrument cluster to
get to it. If you do it right, it is not that hard. I want to make sure I give you the
right info, as there are a few breakables involved.
get to it. If you do it right, it is not that hard. I want to make sure I give you the
right info, as there are a few breakables involved.
And NoMo, how'd you know I was from DSLR :O Are you 'powerhog'? And thank you as well
#7
I remembered wrong, Disconnect your negative battery lead. Pull the light switch fully
on. Reach up behind the switch. On top it has a metal bracket and in the center you
should be able to feel a button. Press it down, and the **** and shaft should pull
easily out the front. Then unscrew the metal bezel the the shaft passed through.
Then you should be able to drop the switch down enough to see the plug on the
bottom. Seperate that from the switch and there you are. If it is bad, I think
a 72 to 79 Ranchero, Torino, or LTD II type should fit. Take your old one with you
to the recyclers to make sure.
on. Reach up behind the switch. On top it has a metal bracket and in the center you
should be able to feel a button. Press it down, and the **** and shaft should pull
easily out the front. Then unscrew the metal bezel the the shaft passed through.
Then you should be able to drop the switch down enough to see the plug on the
bottom. Seperate that from the switch and there you are. If it is bad, I think
a 72 to 79 Ranchero, Torino, or LTD II type should fit. Take your old one with you
to the recyclers to make sure.
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#10
Originally Posted by fl1a
I remembered wrong, Disconnect your negative battery lead. Pull the light switch fully
on. Reach up behind the switch. On top it has a metal bracket and in the center you
should be able to feel a button. Press it down, and the **** and shaft should pull
easily out the front. Then unscrew the metal bezel the the shaft passed through.
Then you should be able to drop the switch down enough to see the plug on the
bottom. Seperate that from the switch and there you are. If it is bad, I think
a 72 to 79 Ranchero, Torino, or LTD II type should fit. Take your old one with you
to the recyclers to make sure.
on. Reach up behind the switch. On top it has a metal bracket and in the center you
should be able to feel a button. Press it down, and the **** and shaft should pull
easily out the front. Then unscrew the metal bezel the the shaft passed through.
Then you should be able to drop the switch down enough to see the plug on the
bottom. Seperate that from the switch and there you are. If it is bad, I think
a 72 to 79 Ranchero, Torino, or LTD II type should fit. Take your old one with you
to the recyclers to make sure.
Thanks to NoMo for refering me here as well!
#12
Originally Posted by NoMo
Glad you got it working. I knew the guys here would come through for ya!
Now I gotta replace/repair the front disc brake system. Caliper/pistons are all gummed up and jammed. Ack! Releasing brake fluid didn't seem to help - the front brakes aren't self adjusting itself and I can barely get the car moving from a stop when the brakes are warmed up