Ball Joint Time....Questions
#1
Ball Joint Time....Questions
Tried to do a search but for some reason I am not able to access that page. So bare with me if this topic has been brought up a gazillion times. Found out my auto lock hubs are pooched, nothing like getting stuck in the snow. So I bought some manual lock hubs and spindle kit. Since i am going to have the spindle pretty much torn down might as well do my ball joints while I am in there. The drivers side has some play so it needs attention but going to do both sides. Other than the upper and lower ball joints, what other parts do I need? This is my first time tackling this job, I have all the tools to do the job. Are the wheel bearings servicable? The truck has 190,000km. Any help would be appreciated
#2
I don't know if you already have the ball joints, if not, this place is more than very competative with prices.
http://www.powerstrokeshop.com/
http://www.powerstrokeshop.com/
#3
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#6
WHEEL BEARINGS ARE SERVICEABLE, I changed my ball joints, while your in thier, its a good time to replace your axle u-joints. To pull everything apart you will need a special socket for your front bearing nuts. Its a pretty straight forward job.
ummmm, if your brakes have any pulsing or your rotors are worn past minimum, buy new rotors as well.
I just did this job, axle u-joints, wheel seals, greaseed the bearings, upper and lower ball joints rotors and pads, found my calipers were screwed to so changed those out. Thier is also a seal between the axle and the hub, I changed those out as well. they biggest problem I had was splitting the spindle from the kuckle, you need to do this to drop your knuckle to change the ball joints. I couldnt split these two so I had to cut the bottom joint between the axle housing and kuckle to swing it out and then press the spindle out. If its rusty, you will find it frustrating..
As for parts, I used MOOG ball joints, lifetime warrenty, only problem I had was the supplier had 5 different listings were the shank was a little different in size and for me, it was not untill the last set I got was the correct size. and I cant find the part numbers, sorry.
best of luck on the job, its not a bad job but has the ability to become a pain in the ****.
recommend pressing the ball joints in with a hyd press
ummmm, if your brakes have any pulsing or your rotors are worn past minimum, buy new rotors as well.
I just did this job, axle u-joints, wheel seals, greaseed the bearings, upper and lower ball joints rotors and pads, found my calipers were screwed to so changed those out. Thier is also a seal between the axle and the hub, I changed those out as well. they biggest problem I had was splitting the spindle from the kuckle, you need to do this to drop your knuckle to change the ball joints. I couldnt split these two so I had to cut the bottom joint between the axle housing and kuckle to swing it out and then press the spindle out. If its rusty, you will find it frustrating..
As for parts, I used MOOG ball joints, lifetime warrenty, only problem I had was the supplier had 5 different listings were the shank was a little different in size and for me, it was not untill the last set I got was the correct size. and I cant find the part numbers, sorry.
best of luck on the job, its not a bad job but has the ability to become a pain in the ****.
recommend pressing the ball joints in with a hyd press
#7
Originally Posted by StinkyD
Who manufactures the ball joints at Powerstoke.com? I haven't bought anything yet, I was going to go with Napa's premiums. I read they are made by Spicer. Just want something that will last another 10 years or there abouts.
Hope this helps.
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#8
#9
Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
I have a two wheel drive and used a hand held ball joint press ( looks like a big c-clamp with different adapters and a hole in one end )and followed the directions in the Ford service manual and found it to be quite easy.
Dave
Dave
#10