vent window
#2
03-02-2002, 04:37 AM
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vent window
Thought maybe somebody may have exp to share on the vent windows that always seem to be venting.
I bought an unfinished restoration recently 53 f100. In making alist of "TO FINISH" I am in need of good exp on getting vents to fit and pivot.
Do the windowspivot pin pivot in anything besides rubber at top or even bottom for that matter.
I have allnew rubber strips,some new hwd, some new glass.But vents still don't fit and really not sure why. After reading the other post on windows and fuzzy's I need to chk mine.
I guess I been to busy with other areas.Been looking for a 351w andfmx parts car. Gave up .Located 5.0 efi w/aod from 89 mk7 rolover, THen developed major medical.This about allthe truckin I'm going to do for while.
Pleas ck out my post for AFTERMARKET board on old companies.
Thanks caddy 53 chuck----HI franklin
I bought an unfinished restoration recently 53 f100. In making alist of "TO FINISH" I am in need of good exp on getting vents to fit and pivot.
Do the windowspivot pin pivot in anything besides rubber at top or even bottom for that matter.
I have allnew rubber strips,some new hwd, some new glass.But vents still don't fit and really not sure why. After reading the other post on windows and fuzzy's I need to chk mine.
I guess I been to busy with other areas.Been looking for a 351w andfmx parts car. Gave up .Located 5.0 efi w/aod from 89 mk7 rolover, THen developed major medical.This about allthe truckin I'm going to do for while.
Pleas ck out my post for AFTERMARKET board on old companies.
Thanks caddy 53 chuck----HI franklin
#3
03-02-2002, 06:17 AM
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vent window
Chuck
As you can tell by my previous posts I am not an expert on the subject (I have disassembled 10 doors and reassembled 2) Here is what I learned from my install. The vents pivot on the upper pin which has very little adjustment. The lower mount is a stud with a spring and a self-locking nut. I believe three screws hold the vent frame to the door. Most of the hardware is riveted and is therefore not adjustable. The quality of your vent seals is important. I used Dan Carpenters and am glad I did. After the vents are in, the next challenge is the divider bar which holds the rear vent seal and the front window track for the main window. Most window fuzzy kits (anti-rattle kit is proper name) on the market are either about $70 or $120. Difference is the expensive kit is completely finished with the 2 divider bar mounts included and already assembled. Sounds like the expensive kit is the right choice? Not so fast. With the mounts pre-installed on the bar, it is now 14 times more difficult to install in the door. Risk of scratching is very high. I riveted everything in the kit with the exception of the divider bar mounts which I mounted with very small stainless machine bolts. (After I installed the bars in the door). May or may not be the best method but my new paint is not scratched. Rest of the window track is pretty easy to install. My horizontal fuzzies went in last and they presented the biggest challenge. In my opinion only because the quality of the kit (clip alignment). I did not use Dan Carpenter anti-rattle kit. This part should have been easy. If you are not a patient person, this job should be hired out. The kits are too expensive and delicate. Hope this helps someone and sorry for the long post.
Dewayne
53 F100
As you can tell by my previous posts I am not an expert on the subject (I have disassembled 10 doors and reassembled 2) Here is what I learned from my install. The vents pivot on the upper pin which has very little adjustment. The lower mount is a stud with a spring and a self-locking nut. I believe three screws hold the vent frame to the door. Most of the hardware is riveted and is therefore not adjustable. The quality of your vent seals is important. I used Dan Carpenters and am glad I did. After the vents are in, the next challenge is the divider bar which holds the rear vent seal and the front window track for the main window. Most window fuzzy kits (anti-rattle kit is proper name) on the market are either about $70 or $120. Difference is the expensive kit is completely finished with the 2 divider bar mounts included and already assembled. Sounds like the expensive kit is the right choice? Not so fast. With the mounts pre-installed on the bar, it is now 14 times more difficult to install in the door. Risk of scratching is very high. I riveted everything in the kit with the exception of the divider bar mounts which I mounted with very small stainless machine bolts. (After I installed the bars in the door). May or may not be the best method but my new paint is not scratched. Rest of the window track is pretty easy to install. My horizontal fuzzies went in last and they presented the biggest challenge. In my opinion only because the quality of the kit (clip alignment). I did not use Dan Carpenter anti-rattle kit. This part should have been easy. If you are not a patient person, this job should be hired out. The kits are too expensive and delicate. Hope this helps someone and sorry for the long post.
Dewayne
53 F100
#4
03-02-2002, 06:35 PM
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vent window
I agree....vents are a problem...more so to install yourself. I tried to install one door by myself and I found the fuzzy things to ber very hard to put on correctly. It doesn't seem like it would be difficult. I ending up wrecking the fuzzy thing and went back and purchased a complete kit from sacramento Vintage... I hired it out to be done and Viola.....they are like new. The vent window on the passenger side works great the driver side is a bit impaired due to the door. Way before I got the truck..that side was involved in a minor accident and that prevents the vent windown from closing all of the way even though the door looks fine. Close to close but I hate to shove it. Good luck...jim
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