If I am not comnpletely satisfied with the results I get with the power washer/Oxyclean I just might hav to do that. Read up on it and it's about $8.00/bottle.
If you don't mind me asking, why are you scraping the sound deadener out?
Won't you just have to put more in, or are you prepping for bedliner material application as a replacement deadener?
Don't mind at all. My plan is to Rust Bullet the insde of the truck (rust converter/protector) and then bedline the inside. The enitre truck will be done in bed liner. Either Smooth Black, Rough Black or Rough Sandstone. Bedliner will not adhere to the sound deadening material so it's got to go. The liner should limit outisde noise.
If you don't mind me asking, why are you scraping the sound deadener out?
Won't you just have to put more in, or are you prepping for bedliner material application as a replacement deadener?
also...there is likely to be oxidation under the liner that needs the direct treatment or all is basically for naught. A guy has to get to every bit of a panel if your wanting it to last.
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'77F1504x4, '75 f250crew4x4, '79 Bronco 429, '83 bronco, '72 Torino with 351cj, 70 1/2 falcon, 75 stangII. all projects, 2 on the road. One pissed off wife!
also...there is likely to be oxidation under the liner that needs the direct treatment or all is basically for naught. A guy has to get to every bit of a panel if your wanting it to last.
True that! I started scrapping and noticed oxidation under the deadner.
Ya know- I was thinking all day today about what i was gonna do next to my EB, as I was installing the cam kit we bought. I kept thinking about that tan color you used from your lower body line down. I am going to get this truck painted back to the blue color it originally was, but the tan along the bottom will be just like yours. Durabak in the tan color, and you used the rough right? Surely I could do all the bottom and the shell with a gallon, wouldn't you think? Anyway, turns out we still have motor issues, so I guess that puts the whole paint process back further. I did get a new torque wrench in the process this go around though, guess I did come out a little ahead. Have you made it any further on your rear skins? I am dying to see your truck all painted with the durabak. I better run off to bed as I have to work tomorrow. See ya
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Charles F. Rives III
65 F-100 2wd-352 4v various mods, pretty quick
83 F-250-Obnoxious 6.9 Diesel on 38" Swampers
85 Bronco-still sittin stock, 300 I-6
86 Bronco-Eddie Bauer 351W 4v
-soon to be 408W stroker
A gallon will go along ways! Surely enough to do the lower 6" of the truck. By shell are you talking the (back) top? What color is it now? That fiber glass will soak up a bunch especially if you have a darker color top.
Put it this way I bought two gallons and painted the following:
It's that 86 EB that you put up a bunch of pics for me. The lower trim and the shell/top are that tan color that most earlier EB's had.
I would think one gallon should do you just fine! It is an easy color combo to cover...Blue was much harder because you could see it underneath the first two layers.
Dan - how ya you doing my friend! No new pictures...no new work done. The only thing I did last night was to clean those carpets again. Oxycleaned all sets. The wife even helped out and lended a scrubbing hand! They look WAY better then before. I will order carpet dye in the next coming weeks!
Trying to borrow a heat gun from a friend to take up the tar in the tub. I might leave work early tomorrow and Friday to get some more work done.
man chris that is an ugly job, i have personally used a propane torch. keep the area well ventilated, it works best if you just warm it and then scrape. lighting it on fire gets it a little to soft, and you dont want to warm to much at a time. i found an area about the size of a cd case works well, and just slowly run the flame back and forth over and over, then set down the torch or hold it out of the way and peel it off with a paint scrapper. did this on a 55 tbird and that undercoating was original, and my duster. the bird was a bear, becuase of its age, but the duster and your truck should be pretty easy. after you get a large area clean, heat it back up in the same manner but larger and then steel wool it down. this will get it down to metal pretty easy. just wear a quality pair of leather gloves. Dan
__________________ one sick puppy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Dusterdan
WOO WOO Shake wife at weiner
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adm Gary Roughhead, Chief Of Naval Operations
"I never want to see a Sailor or Marine in a fair fight. I always want them to have the advantage."
man chris that is an ugly job, i have personally used a propane torch. keep the area well ventilated, it works best if you just warm it and then scrape. lighting it on fire gets it a little to soft, and you dont want to warm to much at a time. i found an area about the size of a cd case works well, and just slowly run the flame back and forth over and over, then set down the torch or hold it out of the way and peel it off with a paint scrapper. did this on a 55 tbird and that undercoating was original, and my duster. the bird was a bear, becuase of its age, but the duster and your truck should be pretty easy. after you get a large area clean, heat it back up in the same manner but larger and then steel wool it down. this will get it down to metal pretty easy. just wear a quality pair of leather gloves. Dan
I thought about doing that exact thing if I do not find a heat gun! Thanks Dan!
I was able to take 1/2 day off today and finally get the sound deadending tar out. At first I was using a razorblade type scrapper I had laying around...too sharp for the job. I got the best results from a plain scrapper/putty knife and a hammer. It did wonders and only took an hour and fifteen!
Just use the putty knife and a hammer and work your way through the tar. You will not get the tub completly clean...more on that coming up!
Here is waht it looks like once the tar is out. The toughest side was the passenger side...less traffic, hence the tar held up better. The driver side was rusting out underneath just like Roger Dowty explained.
Do yourself a favor and get some of these...sanding wheels for your grinder. These things work slick! I was able to grind off rust and residue on the passenger side in about 10-15 minutes. Probably would have taken my 2 hrs with a typical sander.
Finished product...at elast the passenger side. More to do on the Driverside!
The next step is finish up the driver side and then door removal. From there I will be able to better tell what repairs I will need to do to the rockers where the new ones won't cover. Then sand the outer rears, back end and then Rust Bullet. I need more hands and more time!
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