nice work, i am following your sag install on fsb as well. question. since you painted the rocker panels and rear quarters, how are you going to weld them into place? those pieces surely dont bolt in correct?
Just the top sides were painted...the bottoms were left unpainted. These are slip overs so what I will do is clean the existing rockers, POR15 them and then, 3M Glue them in place. Once installed the inside floor can be done with DURABAK to really seal the floor-rocker area. Quarter panels are the same...all of the glue points are NOT painted for adhesion. The 3M glue is much stronger than a spot weld and many of the body shops are switching tpo this stuff with fantastic results!
That is gonna be awesome. I too cannot wait to see it finished. Please continue posting pics, I'll be following closely!!!!!!!!!!
As soon as the weather gets warmer (45-50) then I should be able to take a day off from work to put together the front clip (Hood, front fenders and doors). I will have to wait for much warmer weather to glue the rear quarters and do any floor work.
Any current pics? Did the Durabak coe in the tan color? How close would that tan be to the stock tan color on my 86 EB? I am assuming it is a spray on. Sorry for all the questions, But I am now very seriously doing the tan on mine with that stuff!
__________________
Charles F. Rives III
65 F-100 2wd-352 4v various mods, pretty quick
83 F-250-Obnoxious 6.9 Diesel on 38" Swampers
85 Bronco-still sittin stock, 300 I-6
86 Bronco-Eddie Bauer 351W 4v
-soon to be 408W stroker
Any current pics? Did the Durabak coe in the tan color? How close would that tan be to the stock tan color on my 86 EB? I am assuming it is a spray on. Sorry for all the questions, But I am now very seriously doing the tan on mine with that stuff!
cf3 - no current pics yet. I will need about a week or so to start the tear downa nd rebuild. Durabak come in the tan color. I think it is very close to the EB tan. You can either spray on or roll on. I actually rolled on the tan inside the rear fenders and bottom six inches to get a think coat on. These are the areas were the rocks, mud, small hondas and other debries kick up. The black smotth stuff I started to roll on but quickly switched to spray...much better pattern!
I also used POR15 on many of the surface rusted parts. Price varies by volume. Check out www.por15.com for more details. T
Hey everyone, I plan on posting a new how-to thread on FTE in regard to the Saginaw Swap. I finally got the highpressure retrun line a week ago and today finally got the stinkin bracket off the pump. My plan is to clean that baby up and paint it Ford Blue. Should lookpretty sweeeeeet when it is done. I'll post explaination in regard to install along with more pictures.
By the way, at some point I will take some long weekends to finish up the BIG project...I have to order some more Durabak Smooth Black and some more POR15.
It's been a number of months since my last update. Just to inform you that I will be taking the end of May off from work to get a large chunk of work done. I just ordered another gallon of Durabak and invested in a quart of Rust Bullet. I do not not know what I am going to find underneath that carpet!
According to the Rust Bullet website the 1 qt size should cover 50 sq.ft (x2 coats)....should have plenty to cover the inside bed and inner wheel wells + any other part I think may need it. Stayed tuned for May 25th!!!:rockon
SAGINAW PUMP INSTALL:
I have the SAG stripped and had to JB Weld a tiny hole in the pump (very minor at the top of the pump). Now it is a matter of laying down some primer and painting. May use some RustBullet to coat instead of primer. Then the Ford Blue will go on. Man it is hard to get some shop time! I spent the whole weekend putting togther a swingset!
Man was this ever inspiring, i believe you just gave me some solid ideas for my 89 250 4x. I just want it to be a solid work truck yet have been debating on body work. if i spray real auto topcoat it will look to nice to work, yet your route looks great and is proven to be resilient. Thanks, i have also been debating the glue on approach but was kinda concerned as to how it would work on the rockers and floors and cab corners but i believe you have convinced me to go for it. thanks, i will be anxiously awaiting your next installment. Dan
__________________ one sick puppy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Dusterdan
WOO WOO Shake wife at weiner
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adm Gary Roughhead, Chief Of Naval Operations
"I never want to see a Sailor or Marine in a fair fight. I always want them to have the advantage."
Its getting closer! Starting to get REALLY inspired after checking out several threads on resto's!
1) Recieved the extra gallon of smooth black Durabak
2) Received the quart of Rust Bullet
3) Got my self a high quality paint mask, gowns and more gloves too!
4) Swingset installed = kids happy
5) Backyard puppy proofed (new puppy last week)- wife happy
6) Tetherball pole installed in backyard - wife and kids happy
7) FRIDAY HERE I COME!!!!
If any of you have advice in regard to taking those front fenders off and installing new ones let me know. It's just a matter of screws and bolts...appropximate time to take one off? Alignment...anything I should know? Should I just re-align the new panels with the doors and work my way back?
Hey CJ-yellow lab or golden retriever? I have a female black lab, Chloe, and a male chocolate lab, Eli. Love the color of your toenails!! Ha Ha.
Know what you mean about making wife and kids happy-I've been working on the quads all day today, mine included. She wants to go riding memorial day, no matter what. I just want the motor issue solved on the EB. Have you read my threads on this? This is nuts. I have one in here and one in the small block forum. I also wrote one up over on FSB too. Check em out, see if you have any thoughts.
When you get some more done on your truck, throw up the pics. As for the fenders, how good of shape are your hinges/pins in? That would answer the question about whether to realign the doors. If they are not sagging, look square in the opening, (even gap all the way around), and close nicely I wouldn't mess with them. Your right, it's not a hard job, but it is definitely time consuming. Good luck. I wish you lived close I'd lend a hand doin it. See ya
__________________
Charles F. Rives III
65 F-100 2wd-352 4v various mods, pretty quick
83 F-250-Obnoxious 6.9 Diesel on 38" Swampers
85 Bronco-still sittin stock, 300 I-6
86 Bronco-Eddie Bauer 351W 4v
-soon to be 408W stroker
Hey CJ-yellow lab or golden retriever? I have a female black lab, Chloe, and a male chocolate lab, Eli. Love the color of your toenails!! Ha Ha.
Funny guy! Jack is a yellow lab VERY well behaved and very intelligent!
Quote:
Originally Posted by cfrives3
Know what you mean about making wife and kids happy-I've been working on the quads all day today, mine included. She wants to go riding memorial day, no matter what. I just want the motor issue solved on the EB. Have you read my threads on this? This is nuts. I have one in here and one in the small block forum. I also wrote one up over on FSB too. Check em out, see if you have any thoughts.
When you get some more done on your truck, throw up the pics. As for the fenders, how good of shape are your hinges/pins in? That would answer the question about whether to realign the doors. If they are not sagging, look square in the opening, (even gap all the way around), and close nicely I wouldn't mess with them. Your right, it's not a hard job, but it is definitely time consuming. Good luck. I wish you lived close I'd lend a hand doin it. See ya
Yeah I had been watching the thread but if I recall correctly it's a carbed engine correct? I don't know much about carbs and the systems behind them.
I replaced the hinge pins 3-4 years ago still in VERY good shape, so no problem with sagging doors. I will plan a full 8 hours for front clip...and hey...if I get more done then I will have exceeded my expectations. Buzz on over if you get bored at home...I could use the help!
First day off for the week-long project. I made, waht I think was pretty good progress. Was able to get the rock guard, both front fenders and the cowl put back on. On Tuesday, I'll progress to the hood and start taking out all of the interior! See below:
Front Fender Removal and Install
1) The first thing I did was to take the inner fender screws off. These were 7/32. You'll more then likely break a few, especially in the salt belt. There are also two larger belts under there (10mm) on the driver side and only one located on the passenger side. ( you may have to stick your head in the wheel well to see them.
2) There are also a number of 8 and 10mm bolts located at the following locations:
Front upper grill support
Lower grill support
Fender/Rock Guard connection
Make sure to rescue all of these clips
Larger bolts (1/2 inch) are located topside
[IMG]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/437631/fullsize/fender-bolts.jpg
[/IMG]
There are two more large bolts; one is located behind the front well and before the door (underneath) and the other can only be seen by opening the door and looking through the crack. You will need a 10mm sockete and a long extension to get at it.
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