1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

pyrometer

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  #1  
Old 11-26-2006, 08:40 PM
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pyrometer

is there a difference in readings for a clamp style pyrometer vs. a regular drill and tap pyrometer?
 
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Old 11-26-2006, 09:00 PM
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not that I have heard of but I have not experience using both. I would think not jsut mount either preturbo and you should be good to go. Either way you will be close enough to knok whether you are cooking your pistons or not!
 
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Old 11-26-2006, 09:22 PM
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The clamp style uses a large "radiator" clamp that raps around the exhaust piping to hold the sensor in place. People often complain of exhaust leakage with these. When putting them in the pipe, this is a common method because the pipe isn't really thick enough to tape and then securely screw the sensor in.

The drill and tap requires you to drill, tap the hole, and the screw the sensor in place. Less leakage, more permanent installation, but it takes longer.


I was originally going to just clamp my sensor on for time reasons, but now I will probably just drill and tap the exhaust manifold.
 
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Old 11-27-2006, 06:22 AM
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yes most people drill and tap the manifold, like you said more time and more risk (more shavings, broke bits and taps) but more secure and permanant.
 
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:23 AM
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i have mine clamped. it's been on for about 4 years / 100,000 miles. no leaks, hasn't fallen out, etc.
 
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:35 AM
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My pyro probe is threaded in. Tapping is easy, but either way should work fine.
 
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Old 11-27-2006, 01:22 PM
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what is the best way to drill and tap the manifold? i guess i am asking what is the best way to reduce the risk of lots a shavings?
 
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Old 11-27-2006, 01:54 PM
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I have heard many say they just drilled it tapped if and then used a vacum to suck it clean. Others have used grease on the drill and tap to stick the shavings there. Can't say from experience cause I've never done on. Just go slow. And when you tap don't run the tap all the way in, Just like half way or 3/4 of the way.
 
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:22 PM
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Right on with the vacum. I drilled it, then used a shopvac on it. Then I tapped it *slowly!* and sucked it out with the shopvac again. I cleaned the tap several times and it worked out really well. I also used some grease on it. The only hard part was keeping metal shavings out of your face!
 
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Old 11-27-2006, 04:27 PM
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Grease works on the tap real well.
I didnt use it for the pyro install.
But I needed to tap my oilpan for oil return line for a supercharger on my Corvette.
It worked good no metal got away from me.
 
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Old 12-01-2006, 07:33 PM
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I did mine the same way 1969fordguy did and everything worked out just fine..
 
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