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Old 11-24-2006, 07:26 PM
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How to remove cylinder head??

I changed my glowplugs today and one of the plugs (made by beru) broke off. The thread part and tube came out but the element is still in there. I should have left it where it was, I could still grab what I could with vise grips but no luck anyways. So I decided to just push it down into the hole. Well I'm guessing that wasn't a good idea now.. Anyways I'm gonna try the shop vac idea tommorow which i doubt will work so does anyone have a link on a write up on how to remove the heads? Thanks.
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1997 f-250 cc 4x4. 37" toyo muds on 22's. Beans Stage 2 injectors. Ranch Hand front & rear bumpers and tool box. Tymar intake, TS 6 position chip, HPX and 5" stacks 17* HPOP. Head Studs. 7.3 Intercooler. Big Beans turbo. Rebuilt motor 1/18/2007

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Old 11-24-2006, 09:18 PM
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One more thing, I tried to search but I can't find the search button. Just shows forum tools. If I go up top and select search it gives me 2 reasons why I cannot. Just letting you know, I search before I post. If no answers I'll just get a manual, I'm just sooooo not looking forward to tommorow. I'm just so mad that it broke and to make it worse I drove it further in..
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1997 f-250 cc 4x4. 37" toyo muds on 22's. Beans Stage 2 injectors. Ranch Hand front & rear bumpers and tool box. Tymar intake, TS 6 position chip, HPX and 5" stacks 17* HPOP. Head Studs. 7.3 Intercooler. Big Beans turbo. Rebuilt motor 1/18/2007

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Old 11-24-2006, 09:23 PM
desygityaso desygityaso is offline
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maybe it's posible to use a magnet if not through the glow plug hole maybe through an exhaust port if you drop a valve? I don't know just thinking? It may be possible but make sure you put the piston up close to the top so the valve doesn't fall in there too.

good luck dude.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:37 PM
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Check the Site Announcement thread. You have to click on the Forums menu. Do not move down to any of the other links. Click on Forums and then scroll down...way down...towards the bottom of the page.

I asked about the Search function once and now there is a "motivational" link at the top of the Forums List link.

I've asked them to move it to the Home page for better visibility...but they are extremely busy right now. They had to turn off the Search feature due to bandwidth issues. They've ordered a new server...but there seems to be problems with the vendor.

Once they have the new equipment installed, I'm sure the Search feature will be turned on again. Give them time, this is a FANTASTIC site with an ENORMOUS amount of information and knowledge available, and it's free for the asking.

Of course, if you want to become a sponsor, that would probably help them greatly. I'm considering it myself.

I'll check the book for the cylinder head removal.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:41 PM
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Yeah theres about a 3" inch piece in there.. it's everything except the part the wire harness goes on and the threaded sleave.
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1997 f-250 cc 4x4. 37" toyo muds on 22's. Beans Stage 2 injectors. Ranch Hand front & rear bumpers and tool box. Tymar intake, TS 6 position chip, HPX and 5" stacks 17* HPOP. Head Studs. 7.3 Intercooler. Big Beans turbo. Rebuilt motor 1/18/2007

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Old 11-24-2006, 09:45 PM
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The removal procedures are different for the right and left cylinder heads. Which one do you need to remove?
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:53 PM
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left one.. well looking at the engine it would be the left. BTW Thank you sooo much
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1997 f-250 cc 4x4. 37" toyo muds on 22's. Beans Stage 2 injectors. Ranch Hand front & rear bumpers and tool box. Tymar intake, TS 6 position chip, HPX and 5" stacks 17* HPOP. Head Studs. 7.3 Intercooler. Big Beans turbo. Rebuilt motor 1/18/2007

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Old 11-24-2006, 10:55 PM
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This will take awhile to write up. If you have an email address, I can send it to you.
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Old 11-25-2006, 12:27 AM
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FYI...when you're talking left-side or right-side, left-side is the driver's side and right-side is the passenger's side.

Based on your description, the removal procedure I'm sending you is for the right-side cylinder head. There will be special tools required. Please read the procedure to ensure you have everything you need on-hand.
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Old 11-25-2006, 02:25 AM
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Cylinder Head Removal - Right-Side (Driver-Side)

phatbulldog, here's what the book states:

There are seven diagrams that accompany these instructions. I’m sorry I’m unable to recreate them for you. I borrowed my book from the local library. If, after reading these instructions, you are not 100% sure about any of this, STOP what you’re doing.

These instructions are from the Chilton’s Ford Pick-Ups/Expedition/Navigator 1997-00 Repair Manual, Chapter 3, Pages 35 – 36.
1. Disconnect both negative battery cables.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the radiator.
4. Remove the turbocharger assembly.
5. Disconnect the fuel lines by disconnecting them from the rear of both cylinder heads and the fuel pump.
6. Label and disconnect the wiring from the alternator.
7. Remove the adjusting bolts and pivot bolts from the alternator and the vacuum pump and remove both units.
8. Remove the alternator and its bracket.
9. Remove the engine oil dipstick lube.
10. Remove the MAP sensor and position it aside.
11. Remove the valve cover.
12. Remove the connectors from the injectors and glow plugs.
13. Remove the valve cover gasket.
14. Remove the high pressure oil pump supply line to the right cylinder head.
15. Remove the exhaust back pressure line.
16. Remove the three glow plug relay bracket nuts and the ground wire.
17. Disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head.
18. Remove the outer half of the heater distribution box.
19. Remove the four outboard fuel injector hold-down bolts, retaining screws, and four oil deflectors.

WARNING
Remove the oil drain plugs prior to removing the injectors or oil could enter the combustion chamber which could result in hydrostatic lock and severe engine damage.

20. Remove the oil rail drain plugs.
21. Remove the fuel injectors using Injector Remover No. T94T-9000-AH1, or equivalent. Position the tool’s fulcrum beneath the fuel injector hold-down plate and over the edge of the cylinder head. Install the remover screw in the threaded hole of the fuel injector plate (see illustration). Tighten the screw to lift out the injector from its bore. Place the injector in a suitable protective sleeve such as Rotunda Injector Protective Sleeve, No. 014-00933-2, and set the injector in a suitable holding rack.
22.Use a suitable vacuum tool, such as Rotunda Vacuum Pump, No. 021-00037, or equivalent to remove the oil and fuel left over in the injector bores.
23. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods, KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER.
24. Remove the four glow plugs.
25. Remove the right turbo exhaust inlet pipe.
26. Remove the ground strap from the rear of the cylinder head.
27. Disconnect the fuel return line at the front of the cylinder head.
28. Remove the four inboard fuel injector shoulder bolts.
29. Remove the cylinder head bolts and attach a Rotunda Cylinder Head Lifting Bracket, 014-00932-2, or equivalent.
30. Carefully lift the cylinder head out of the engine compartment and remove the head gaskets.
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Old 11-25-2006, 02:27 AM
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Cylinder Head Install - Right-Side (Driver-Side)

I had to shorten this. It was too long, so I split the procedure into two posts. I exceeded the character limit.

To install:
To prepare a good seat for the fuel injector O-rings, use a suitable injector sleeve brush to clean any debris from the bore.

31. Carefully clean the cylinder block and head mating surfaces.
32. Position the cylinder head gasket on the engine block and carefully lower the cylinder head in place.
33. Install the cylinder head bolts and torque in 3 steps using the sequence shown in the illustration. (I’m unable to recreate the illustration referred to here. First step – 65 FT-LB. Second step – 85 FT-LB. Third step – 105 FT-LB.)
Lubricate the threads and the mating surfaces of the bolt heads and washers with engine oil.

34. Connect the fuel return line to the cylinder head.
35. Install the four inboard injector shoulder bolts. Tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).


36. Install the fuel injectors using special tools as follows:
a. Lubricate the injectors with clean engine oil. Using new copper washers, carefully push the injectors square into the bore using hand pressure only to seat the O-rings.

b. Position the open end of Injector Replacer, No. T94T-9000-AH2, or equivalent between the fuel injector body and injector hold-down plate, while positioning the opposite end of the tool over the edge of the cylinder head.
c. Align the hole in the tool with the threaded hole in the cylinder head and install the bolt from the tool kit. Tighten the bolt to fully seat the injector, then remove the bolt and tool.

37. Install the four outboard fuel injector hold-down bolts, four oil deflectors, and retaining screws. Tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).


38. Dip the pushrod ends in clean engine oil and install the pushrods with the copper colored ends toward the rocker arms, making sure the pushrods are fully seated in the tappet pushrod seats.
39. Install the rocker arms and posts in their original positions. Apply Lubriplate® grease to the valve stem tips. Turn the engine over by hand until the timing mark is at the 11 o’clock position as viewed from the front. Install the rocker arm posts, bolts and tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Install the valve covers.
40. Install the fuel rail drain plugs, tightening them to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
41. Install the oil rail drain plugs, tightening them to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
42. Install the heater distribution box.
43. Install the heater hose to the cylinder head.
44. Install the glow plug relay bracket and ground wire.
45. Install the exhaust back pressure line.
46. Install the oil supply line to the cylinder head, tightening it to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
47. Install the dipstick tube.
48. Install the MAP sensor and screws.
49. Install the valve cover gasket.
50. Connect the wiring to the fuel injectors and glow plugs.
51. Install the valve cover, tightening to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
52. Connect the injector wiring harness to the valve cover gasket.
53. Install the alternator, tightening the bracket bolts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).
54. Connect the alternator wiring and install the drive belt.
55. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal. Tighten the fuel pump-to-fuel line banjo bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
56. Connect both negative battery cables.
57. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
58. Run the engine and check for fuel, coolant, and exhaust leaks.

If this helps...feel free to increase my "Reputation" points. I'd appreciate it.

Good luck.
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Old 11-25-2006, 05:42 AM
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I thank you so so so much, If I known you had to do that much writing you should have just told me to go buy the d##m book. But I really do appreciate you doing that. And I'm sure with the cold weather someone else will have the same prob and will find the info usefull also thanks again!!!!
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1997 f-250 cc 4x4. 37" toyo muds on 22's. Beans Stage 2 injectors. Ranch Hand front & rear bumpers and tool box. Tymar intake, TS 6 position chip, HPX and 5" stacks 17* HPOP. Head Studs. 7.3 Intercooler. Big Beans turbo. Rebuilt motor 1/18/2007

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Old 11-25-2006, 09:13 AM
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If you haven't alredy started to unbolt the head some ahve had success buy pulling the injector and fishing the gp tip out the injector hole. The hole is a bit bigger than the tip and some have gotten a mangent on the end of a string and gone fishing. just make sure your magnet is secured to the string well as you don't want that stuck in there too.
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Old 11-25-2006, 12:09 PM
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well I tried the fishin out method with no luck Anyways I'm just gonna wait for my cousin tommorow. If he can't help then I'll just take it to the local diesel shop. I put the new plug back in and I felt around but felt nothing. I can't find it in the cylinder nor on the ground, could it have made its way elsewhere? I want to fire it up so bad, but I know with my luck the worse will happen. One more thing, can it be towed there (didn't know if that would mess it up too) or should I call a roll back? Do you think it would last the 10 mins it takes to get there? thanks
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1997 f-250 cc 4x4. 37" toyo muds on 22's. Beans Stage 2 injectors. Ranch Hand front & rear bumpers and tool box. Tymar intake, TS 6 position chip, HPX and 5" stacks 17* HPOP. Head Studs. 7.3 Intercooler. Big Beans turbo. Rebuilt motor 1/18/2007

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Old 11-25-2006, 12:53 PM
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dont start your truck. that gp will be embedded into the piston and will give you a hot spot..... it sucks but just do it right. do you have the shop manual i emailed everyone yet?
if not send me a pm with your email address.

fwiw if you ever run into this again or anyone else. needle nose vise grips and grab what you can and spray pb blaster down in the hole and let it soak for hours. then work that thing until it comes out.

sorry to hear the news.
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Old 11-25-2006, 12:53 PM
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