I am new to the Ford-trucks forum and I am struggling to figure out how to search the forum. I am looking for information on how to remove the front brake rotors on my '99 Ranger. I've removed the calipers and caliper mounting assembly but am not sure how to remove the rotors (they need to be machined or replaced). I understand that there are 2 different styles of rotor mounting - one that slips off and one where the hub and possibly the wheel bearing has to be removed. I am not sure which style rotor I have. It is a 99' Ranger 4x4 5sp with off-road, extended cab and 3.0L. I would appreciate if you can identify where to obtain some information on the removal and reinstallation procedures for both styles via a link with photos. Thank you.

 

You should have "floating" rotors.. which means with the brakes out of the way, they should "theoretically" fall off into your hands.

Unfortunately they tend to rust onto the hubs.

First, make sure the factory retaining clips (small round clips over the studs installed at the factor to hold the rotor on during assembly) are removed. Small side-cutters work great.. just break them off and throw them away.

If they still refuse to budge then spray a LIBERAL amount of penetrating spray around the hub.. let it sit for 15-20 minutes then smack the rotor between the studs around in circles a few times.

If they STILL refuse to budge, then you may have to whack the heck out of them from the inside side of the rotor outward. If you're lucky you might be able to do this without damaging them to the point to where they can't be resurfaced... but with all the rust around the hub mating area, you may be better off just installing new ones anyway.

Good luck

 

I am curious to know how you are so certain it is the floating type? At the NAPA parts store, I saw both types with no clear method how to distinguish which was installed.

I did remove the retaining clips and did soak thoroughly the seam between the rotor and the hub several times over the afternoon. With a hammer, I hit on the backside of the rotor rotating it 30 degrees and hit again. I did this many times but was cautious not to hit it very hard. Until I can be sure it is the floating type, I did not want to really hit at it hard. I can certainly see how it can be siezed to the hub.

 

The 4x4 models have the free floating rotors, and the 2x4 rotors are part of the hub, so the bearings have to be removed.

 

As noted, the rotors should slide over the black plastic cap and off. I had to use a rubber mallet and a whole lot of PB Blaster to get mine off the first time I did my front brakes.

 

Anti-sieze on the back! Will prevent it from happening on the new ones.

 

DON'T hit the rotor with a metal faced hammer!!!!

Use a "dead blow", or rubber faced hammer, as Rockledge suggeted, or use a wood block in contact with the rotor, so you don't "dimple" it's surface.

You might try some heat, from a heat gun, at the hub & stud areas, to help with parts expansion, that'll help loosen the rust & aid the penetrating oil to do it's thing.

Just some more thoughts for consideration.

Let us know how it goes.

 

After a half can of PB Blaster and beating on the rotor with a 4 lb sledge for 30 minutes, they each broke free. From there the task was simple to install the new rotors and pads. Don't plan to do this project again, but applied the anti-seize anyway as suggested. Results look very good. Everyone's responses were very helpful and much appreciated. Thanks.

 

No problem.. anytime!

Believe me I've dimpled my fair share of rotors.. but always as a last resort effort with my customers being well aware there is a good chance their rotors will not survive the abuse and will need to be replaced.

When you work in a high volume fast paced shop, you simply do not have time to spend hours on removal of rotors. If the tricks don't work you just beat the crud out of them and worry about the consequences later