How difficult is it to convert to alternator and change the distributor to electronic-no points? I have a '63 Econoline straight six. Thanks...

 

The alternator I am not sure about I've never done that conversion but the points conversion I've done plenty of them and they are fairly simple you just need to buy the conversion kit and follow the instructions. Find a good place to mount the ignition box so it is away from major heat and you are set.

 

another good option for points replacement is the pertronix ignitor I. you can get the unit from any good speed shop for around $70. it is a bolt in place of the points, and you use the existing cap, rotor, and wires. i have installed over 25 of these units over the past 20 years in everything from farm tractors to large trucks, and never had a problem with any of them. and both my falcon and 7 litre have them in the distributor. unless you are very observant, you will not know it is installed. the only difference is that there are 2 wires from the distributor to the coil instead of 1 with points.

 

several ways to go about the electronic change over.
petronix is about all you can do with a 140, [1/4 in. oil pump shaft].
you can use about any of the aftermarket kits with all the engines, or you can use the ford duraspark with the 170 and larger engines. [my personal favorite]
if you go with the petronix, be sure and keep your old points and condensor in the truck, that way if it quits you will be able to get home.

the petronix seems to be a fairly reliable system, only thing i worry about is something happening away from home and not being able to find a replacement part.

petronix 2 recomends that you use their coil and plug wires. i have heard of the second system burning up quality wires in as little as 500 miles.

 

yea Jim, they say to use all of their stuff, but i never have on anything. pertronix ignitor I only, and most of the time with the ballast resister left in place also. maybe thats why they all have lasted so long.

there are a few guys on the falcon forum that have tried the ignitor II and all their coils and wires and such, with the recommended no resister wire, and had nothing but bad luck, with the units burning out in months or days, and tell me i am lying.

just because the selling company says to use such and such part, that don't mean you have to, it just means they want you to spend more money on their products.
the one thing i noticed about using the ignitor I is that after the install, i usually have to advance the timing around 4 degrees.

 

Well guys(don't shoot me)!!! I bought this ride through eBay(the worst buying experience of my life!!!) and was told it was a 200CI Cleveland from an '83 wrecked Oklahoma police car. Police car with a six banger??? Six cylinder Cleveland??? Any thoughts on those two? Anyhow I popped the cap and it IS already electronic ignition. I am going to get the #s off the block--WHO KNOWS THESE BLOCK CODES??? That would really end the great mystery! Thanks...

 

post the block codes, and we will try to decypher them.

a few things. do you know how to tell the difference between the ford 6 cylinders??
does it have an integeral intake manifold, or is it seperate from the head?

another thing you may have, is a cleveland head.
they were used overseas, and are much better than the ones made here.

 

OK This is the best I can read them:The ? is because it's mashed or something.

?Z
D8BE
6015-CE

Hope somebody knows how to do this. Thanks...

 

dagnabit!! now i cant find my part # decoder.

i can tell you it is a 78 block, but i will have to find the decoder to figure what car it came out.

 

it is a 78 model block, so i believe it will be a 250. if the starter mounts below the ear on the block, [like a v8], it is a 250. if it mounts above the ear on the block it will be a 200.

the electronic ign. will be a simple bolt in conversion. hardest part will be mounting the module on the outside of the dog house.

the alternator should be an easy conversion if you use a ford system.
being a 78 model it may already have the lower alt. bracket on the engine. only way to tell is try an alt. in the bracket and see if it will pivot all the way up to the block. then check for belt alignment. the bracket should be bolted to 1 hole in the side of the block, and 1 hole in the timing cover. if it fits, then all you need is wiring to the regulator, i use the factory harness from a 65 thru79 from the alternator to reg. then just hook up the excitor wire and your done.

 

Appreciate the help Wanting to convert to alternator and NEEDING a new carburator can't be done without the right info. It's looking like a '78 200CI if I'm reading the "ears" part right. The starter sits pretty low. The existing carburator is trash. Amazing I got back to Fl from Oklahoma City! I have to learn how to post pics also. Later...

 

ok, it is a 78 engine from a fairmont.
to tell if it is a 200 or a 250 is easy. as jim already noted, if the starteris mounted below the oil pan line. also, the 250 has 4 bolts holding the water pump on. the 200 has the starter mounted above the oil pan line, and 3 bolts holding the water pump on.

 

Well the starter is above the oil pan and the most I can see is three bolts on the water pump(amazingly small water pump).I don't know what you mean by the intake being "separate" from the head.

 

it is a 78 200 cid


a seperate intake will be a rare aussy cleveland head. it has 3 parts to it, the head, the intake manifold, and the exhaust manifold.
the standard 200-250 head is a 2 part unit. the head with the intake cast into it, and the exhaust hanifold

 

ausie head also has the intake on one side and the exhaust on the other side. they are also worth about 1200 bucks each!

did an electronic conversion today by the way, took about 1 hour. what a world of differance!