New here. My 83 f150 w/ 41" tires
#16
Originally Posted by fishmanndotcom
the best way to do it and i am quite frankly surprised i havent seen it yet is to build an beefed up engine crossmember with the TTB pivot points built in and beefed up instead of bolting longer brackets on that results in more leverage!
#18
As a guy who has been doing this 4x4 thing for a while, and has made many mistakes along the way, please learn from my mistakes, and take my advice. First, the guys here know their stuff, so trust them. Second, do yourself a favor and don't buy from Rough Country. I have a 94 F-150 (the exact same suspension setup that an 83 f-150 has) with a Rough Country lift. Its not that they are junk really, because all of their parts fit and function properly, and are all way stronger than stock. Its just that you can build your own lift cheaper, and will be way better off. First, familiarize yourself with www.broncograveyard.com They are the best resource for parts for all of our trucks. Next, stop looking for huge tires on ebay, and start looking for a Dana 44 front axle out of late 70's Broncos and F-150s. You can swap in a D 44 SFA with the stock 70's radius arms, late 70's coil buckets, buy some lift coils, rear lift springs, shocks, and hardware, and have the same amount of money in it. I bought an all spring 4" lift kit (not add-a-leaves or blocks) directly from Rough Country for $829.41 shipped. the Leaf springs are good, but the rest is barely satisfactory. I decided to do a solid axle swap. I bought my Dana 44 with radius arms and rad arm mounts for $60 from a guy I know. Once I buy the coil buckets, springs, shocks and bolts, I will have maybe $600- $700 in the entire suspension setup. I am going to rebuild the axle with all chromoly internals for about $1500, but that's beside the point. What I am getting at here is, don't lift that TTB junk, do a solid axle swap, use the guys here and the previous posts as your resource, and do it all right the first time.
Also, forgot to mention, but www.sky-manufacturing.com makes a shackle flip drop bracket for the rear for like $150 or so. you could use lift leaf springs exclusively, do a shackle flip with their setup, or do both (like I plan to do).
Also, forgot to mention, but www.sky-manufacturing.com makes a shackle flip drop bracket for the rear for like $150 or so. you could use lift leaf springs exclusively, do a shackle flip with their setup, or do both (like I plan to do).
#19
yea... straight axle conversion is the way to go for sure.... but... the thing is average price of a used axle at a junk yard... is anywhere from $100-$400 ... and you dont know wat its been through .. when i can say screw that... and buy the brackets from procomp. .. for $200... and for a woods beater those will work out fine... i mean... im not trying to say ttb is the better way to go... but its definatly cheaper.. if its not your daily driver.. and your just gonna beat it plus... those ttb's are strong.. hold up 36's fine...i have a 6in lift with 36's on my truck and so do my buddys and we beat the living dog **** outta them... and havent broke nothing and my buddys dad has a stock bronco with 38.5 tsl boggers.. and hasnt broke nothing... just ttb lift is cheaper...
#21
#22
if you find a solid D44 and the parts you need its not really a big undertaking to do like some people make it out to be. Some people just like to go all out, and no nothing about suspension. You can lift the SFA 4" with only 4" lift coils and a drop pitman arm. Not ideal, but doable.
If you decide to lift the TTB I would search around for some back yard machinist or at least call some steel fab and welding, shops to make the brackets you need. Might be cheaper. Dont forget you need radius arm drop brackets. You could even just lower the coil buckets 2" and get some 2" coil spacers. Ghetto fab I know, but I sure know I wouldnt want to spend a penny more than I need to on a truck thats going to get pounded on harder than a pre-paid hooker at an all male school....and spend no time on the public roadways. Plus the less I pay the more the truck pays. Dont let money hinder your enjoyment. I know I start thinking twice about doing stuff when money is an object. lol
If you decide to lift the TTB I would search around for some back yard machinist or at least call some steel fab and welding, shops to make the brackets you need. Might be cheaper. Dont forget you need radius arm drop brackets. You could even just lower the coil buckets 2" and get some 2" coil spacers. Ghetto fab I know, but I sure know I wouldnt want to spend a penny more than I need to on a truck thats going to get pounded on harder than a pre-paid hooker at an all male school....and spend no time on the public roadways. Plus the less I pay the more the truck pays. Dont let money hinder your enjoyment. I know I start thinking twice about doing stuff when money is an object. lol
#23
Originally Posted by blackmagic84
yea... straight axle conversion is the way to go for sure.... but... the thing is average price of a used axle at a junk yard... is anywhere from $100-$400 ... and you dont know wat its been through .. when i can say screw that... and buy the brackets from procomp. .. for $200... and for a woods beater those will work out fine... i mean... im not trying to say ttb is the better way to go... but its definatly cheaper.. if its not your daily driver.. and your just gonna beat it plus... those ttb's are strong.. hold up 36's fine...i have a 6in lift with 36's on my truck and so do my buddys and we beat the living dog **** outta them... and havent broke nothing and my buddys dad has a stock bronco with 38.5 tsl boggers.. and hasnt broke nothing... just ttb lift is cheaper...
however with that being said if all you are looking for is something to clear larger shoes for now and maybe plan on swapping trucks or something along the lines of not keeping the truck or lift then yes go for it. but if its kind of a beater or maybe you have some extra rust around the lower sections, might think twice about trimming the fenders! easy/cheap way to clear biggger meats.
also... if you are running 36's on TTB D44 and you 'beat' the heck out of it and havent busted anything, then you are NOT beating the heck out of anything; esp on stock parts! actually if you look, the lifts for solid axle trucks are cheaper b/c there are fewer brackets to send only coil springs and radius arm drop brackets!
been there, done that!
-cutts-
Last edited by fishmanndotcom; 11-12-2006 at 11:08 PM.
#24
Originally Posted by fishmanndotcom
not cheaper in the long run! i'm one of those that likes to build it once and never have to worry about it again! if you just throw lift brackets under a TTB yes that will lift it immediately and clear larger tires. but what about in a year or 5 years? my frame started to tweak after just about 10 months and this was mainly a daily driver! i was driving 100 miles to skool and back on the weekends. i occasionally hit some mud but it wasnt anything to call home about. also the extended steering parts are going to take a beating even with a dropped pitman arm you will have issues b/c of the inheriant inverted-Y setup. if you want longevity and long term reliability do a solid axle swap esp if you dont plan to do anything real serious (ie rock crawling, TTC, etc).
however with that being said if all you are looking for is something to clear larger shoes for now and maybe plan on swapping trucks or something along the lines of not keeping the truck or lift then yes go for it. but if its kind of a beater or maybe you have some extra rust around the lower sections, might think twice about trimming the fenders! easy/cheap way to clear biggger meats.
also... if you are running 36's on TTB D44 and you 'beat' the heck out of it and havent busted anything, then you are NOT beating the heck out of anything; esp on stock parts! actually if you look, the lifts for solid axle trucks are cheaper b/c there are fewer brackets to send only coil springs!
been there, done that!
-cutts-
however with that being said if all you are looking for is something to clear larger shoes for now and maybe plan on swapping trucks or something along the lines of not keeping the truck or lift then yes go for it. but if its kind of a beater or maybe you have some extra rust around the lower sections, might think twice about trimming the fenders! easy/cheap way to clear biggger meats.
also... if you are running 36's on TTB D44 and you 'beat' the heck out of it and havent busted anything, then you are NOT beating the heck out of anything; esp on stock parts! actually if you look, the lifts for solid axle trucks are cheaper b/c there are fewer brackets to send only coil springs!
been there, done that!
-cutts-
yes again like everyone has said.. sas.. is the way to go .. for something your gonna keep or rock crawl.. but .. im a hick i live on 40 acres.. of woods.. and swamp.. its not my daily driver if you drive a lifted truck with big shoes.. that stupid... espeacially a sas daily driver lifted.. dumb.. waste of money... thats why i did my ttb lift.. its my deer hunting woods beater i could care less if stuff breaks.. ill just weld it up and brace it... for a daily driver.. i have a acura integra... wiht 17"rims.. and a b16 .... 250 hp... and gets 33mpg... and second off.. why do a solid axle.. swap.. just ge ta 3/4 or 1 ton.. to start with... then theres no need for a solid axle swap and also... yes i do beat my truck i jump it... play in gravel and sand pits with it.. and 2nd gear to the rugs.. in 4ft of snow.. and all ive done to the truck was a $8 starter relay... and ive had the truck for 2 years... and its been lifted for a year and a half of that
Last edited by blackmagic84; 11-12-2006 at 11:16 PM.
#26
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