56 F100 Frame Woes
#17
56 F100 Frame Woes
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 20-Aug-02 AT 06:23 PM (EST)]Kai
What is fishplating? You see, 286merc caught a really big Bass on vacation this year. He wants to have it chromed. I am trying to tell him it won't work but he just won't listen.
Seriously though, I will try to find a PIC on the net and post it. It is a very effective welding procedure that works well for frame repair and general wheel base modification such has stretch limos.
'fenders
What is fishplating? You see, 286merc caught a really big Bass on vacation this year. He wants to have it chromed. I am trying to tell him it won't work but he just won't listen.
Seriously though, I will try to find a PIC on the net and post it. It is a very effective welding procedure that works well for frame repair and general wheel base modification such has stretch limos.
'fenders
#18
56 F100 Frame Woes
286merc
Here is why I am going to box in this situation. We have a vertical crack where the nonflexing frame (camaro clip) meets the flexing part (stock frame) You would probably agree the best way to splice a frame is a "z" cut or a 45 degree cut. That is going to be hard when you have vertical crack damage already. Since it will be difficult to patch it using an optimal method. I am going to box the repair area and move the transition point from flex to non-flex, farther back where we don't have any current frame damage. That's just how I would do it. Let me end by saying I don't pretend to be a professional welder or frame repairman.
Regards
'fenders
Here is why I am going to box in this situation. We have a vertical crack where the nonflexing frame (camaro clip) meets the flexing part (stock frame) You would probably agree the best way to splice a frame is a "z" cut or a 45 degree cut. That is going to be hard when you have vertical crack damage already. Since it will be difficult to patch it using an optimal method. I am going to box the repair area and move the transition point from flex to non-flex, farther back where we don't have any current frame damage. That's just how I would do it. Let me end by saying I don't pretend to be a professional welder or frame repairman.
Regards
'fenders
#20
56 F100 Frame Woes
I pulled the engine and transmission today and I found some serious cracks. The clipped crossmember has been notched for oilpan clearance and it is almost broke in half! Before I had the engine out I had carefully measured the frame from the clip back and it is less than a 1/16" out of parallel and square and I was feeling good about repairing it but now it is looking bleak. There has been some good discussion on this and it has been informative. I am going to have to sleep on this one for a while. Thanks...Kevin
#21
56 F100 Frame Woes
That probably explains why the frame has cracked. They compromised the strength of the independent suspension crossmember, which has to be pretty strong, so the poor old original frame was trying keep everything straight and couldn't handle it. I think someone on here that has some parts trucks sitting around, could sell you a frame cheap.
#22
#23
56 F100 Frame Woes
Kent,
I have decided to start over with a new chassis so I am looking for a good, straight, unmolested frame. I am in Brenham. DFW is not a problem. Now to decide on a front end kit. Seriously looking at Heidts Mustang II. Are the M II's really stout enough for a truck? They seem a little wimpy. 11 or 9 1/4 in. brakes. Will my Camaro rotor and calipers work on it? Questions, questions. Kevin
I have decided to start over with a new chassis so I am looking for a good, straight, unmolested frame. I am in Brenham. DFW is not a problem. Now to decide on a front end kit. Seriously looking at Heidts Mustang II. Are the M II's really stout enough for a truck? They seem a little wimpy. 11 or 9 1/4 in. brakes. Will my Camaro rotor and calipers work on it? Questions, questions. Kevin
#24
56 F100 Frame Woes
Kevin, et al,
After reading this thread and seeing the damage on my 55 Chevy's frame, I'm leery of doing the wrong thing when I upgrade my front end.
I have a 54 F100 that's pretty much original so far. When I bought my truck I also bought a custom front cross-member that used the front suspension from a 77 Cordoba. The guy had the whole deal; custom cross-member, all the required pieces from the Cordoba, and all the parts to rebuild it (ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, etc.).
One possible advantage of this setup is that the ends of the torsion bars are attached to a crossmember that is mounted about where the cab ends. This would put the torque of the bars in the middle of the frame. On the other hand, the shock absorbers are mounted up front so that road shock is transmitted to the front of the frame.
I'm worried that unless I either box the frame or 'fish-plate' the frame (I don't know what fish-plate is) I'm eventually going to have cracks in my frame, too.
Any thoughts or advice? I'm out of work right now, so I need to stay on a pretty tight budget. I've got a wire-feed welder that can be converted to MIG so I can do my own frame work. I suppose I'll have to research back issues of Classic Truck, etc, to see what the state-of-the-art is.
Anybody's input is appreciated.
#25
56 F100 Frame Woes
Not having any experience using them, I want to say looking at the pictures and literature on the cordoba set-up (Gibbons), it is a very stout heavy duty unit. I would not worry about welding any type of frontend to an old ford truck, whether it's mustang II, volare, cordoba, front clip, pacer, dakota, or aerostar.(did I leave any out?)
I believe if you re-read the previous posts, you will find he had a problem because somebody took a chunk out of the independent crossmember that was welded in. I don't think there is anything "magical" in welding on a frame as long as you have a sense of what will be structurally sound. I agree that Ford used the flexing frame theory for many years, but they are now realizing this is not the way to go on the newer trucks(hydro-formed frames). Having a strong frame will give a better ride and better handling. If you want to go with any kind of independent front suspension, the frame has to be stronger. If you look at the many magazine articles on the subject, they always box part of the frame at least around the front to make it stronger. Sounds like you want to buy a kit rather than the homebrew method. Talk to who you are going to buy from and pick the one that seems most helpful with info on what's required to get the job done. They should have all the engineering figured out for you.
I believe if you re-read the previous posts, you will find he had a problem because somebody took a chunk out of the independent crossmember that was welded in. I don't think there is anything "magical" in welding on a frame as long as you have a sense of what will be structurally sound. I agree that Ford used the flexing frame theory for many years, but they are now realizing this is not the way to go on the newer trucks(hydro-formed frames). Having a strong frame will give a better ride and better handling. If you want to go with any kind of independent front suspension, the frame has to be stronger. If you look at the many magazine articles on the subject, they always box part of the frame at least around the front to make it stronger. Sounds like you want to buy a kit rather than the homebrew method. Talk to who you are going to buy from and pick the one that seems most helpful with info on what's required to get the job done. They should have all the engineering figured out for you.
#26
56 F100 Frame Woes
Paul
I agree with Franklin that you should have no problem with welding any clip to the F100 frame. A downside to many methods is that you lose the stock cross member Vicinity the firewall. The literature for the Gibbons kit looks like a high quality kit that has accounted for the crossmember loss. There are days I wish I had bought it myself.
Kevins situation is much different. Somebody removed GM's engineering right out of the Camaro clip with some crossmember removal for oil pan clearance. Even without this mod, this is a far riskier type IFS install. If you use a Camaro, LTD II, Torino or whatever, you cut the stock F100 chassis off at the firewall. Then you have to weld the two together and it isn't a matter of splicing 2 pieces of C-channel frame together that line up perfectly. You have to be a better welder/fabber than I to do it correctly. It has been done successfully many times but you can get cracks were the two meet if you just start winging it.
I am anxious to hear how your Gibbon's kit installs and good luck on your job search.
'fenders
I agree with Franklin that you should have no problem with welding any clip to the F100 frame. A downside to many methods is that you lose the stock cross member Vicinity the firewall. The literature for the Gibbons kit looks like a high quality kit that has accounted for the crossmember loss. There are days I wish I had bought it myself.
Kevins situation is much different. Somebody removed GM's engineering right out of the Camaro clip with some crossmember removal for oil pan clearance. Even without this mod, this is a far riskier type IFS install. If you use a Camaro, LTD II, Torino or whatever, you cut the stock F100 chassis off at the firewall. Then you have to weld the two together and it isn't a matter of splicing 2 pieces of C-channel frame together that line up perfectly. You have to be a better welder/fabber than I to do it correctly. It has been done successfully many times but you can get cracks were the two meet if you just start winging it.
I am anxious to hear how your Gibbon's kit installs and good luck on your job search.
'fenders
#27
56 F100 Frame Woes
Hi all! Just thought I'd weigh in and lay my 2 cents on ya'll. I'm currently in process of installing the Gibbon kit in my '51. Thus far, it has been very straightforward and relatively painless. Everything has fit as intended. The instructions could have been a bit clearer on some minor points and the templates for cutting the steering box clearance notches weren't even in the same state, let alone the ballpark, but nothing has come up that anyone with a reasonable amount of creativity couldn't figure out. The gentleman at the Gibbon F-100's shop has also been very helpful when I've had any questions. I've got a couple of other projects going that demand my time as well as a new lady friend to entertain, but it should be done soon. I've been documenting everything with my digital camera and hope to have a full writeup with pics ready to submit to Kenny for a tech article by fall. I'll include my observations and tips, too. As has already been said, the kit is very well-built and sturdy and I haven't found anything in it's design and fitment that has caused me any concern over strength with the crossmember or the chassis. I reasearched my options carefully before I bought it and am still convinced that it's the best way to do IFS hands down. No cutting or chopping, no guesswork, and the parts all came out from under a full size sedan instead of a subcompact. More to come when it finished..........
#28
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