Just about everyone I checked with had the extenders for the power rack-it is obviously more popular. Check around, it seems the prices vary a lot.



>Thanks,
>
>I was planning on using P/S as my y-block will be heavy and
>I was advised to stay with power. I have a power rack from a
>78 that I will be using to start with. Will I have problem
>finding the rack extenders for it. Can you ask your friends
>what specifically they didn't like about Fatman? I'll have
>to check about the placement of the rack on the Fatman
>crossmember to see if I need (1) 4" or (2) 2".
>
>Restoring at the speed of a slow sick snail !
>
>Charles in Pensacola
>
>57 F100 adding Blown 312 auto
>86 F150

 

did your kit come complete or just a cross member? how much was it? i'm looking for a complete kit hub to hub.

 

does the entire front clip come off down to the bare frame for this install or does it just make it easier?
will a wire feed welder be enoiugh for the welding or does it require a small stck welder?

 

you're going to have to get to a point where you can weld in boxing plates on the inside of the frame rails then weld everywhere the crossmember and tophats contact the frame rails and boxing plates. this will probably necessitate removing fuel lines, brake lines and wiring that runs in or on the frame rails. So, yea, pretty much bare frame.

We did all our welding with a 130 amp hobart handler wire machine...but after about 17 feet of welding..it was over it's duty cycle... you could use stick... but if you have wire, it makes a much neater cleaner job with less cleanup...

john

 

 

thanks, i thought bare frame was needed but wanted to be sure.
i was concerned a wire fed welder woulnt penetrate well enough for a strong weld, when my time is here ill just play with the wire speed.
how much does this lower the front of the truck?
ive herd that stock spindles even lower the truck. is this true?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Sep-02 AT 08:27 PM (EST)]>thanks, i thought bare frame was needed but wanted to be sure.
>i was concerned a wire fed welder woulnt penetrate well
>enough for a strong weld, when my time is here ill just play
>with the wire speed.

The frame is made from 3/16" sheet stock formed into the C-shaped rails and the cross-members. Most wire machines have thickness/speed/voltage charts either on the cabinet or in the manual. Even a 135 will do the job although you might have to take breaks to let it cool off as John mentioned in his post. I've got a 175 and I think I could run just about continuously welding 3/16" thick frame members.

Good luck!

George