SAam there are a handful of vendors in Hemmings that do exactly that, but a new mustng tank would perhaps cost less and you would have no 1 off or unique parts to worry about. Take the path of least resistance, no pun intended. (resistence ?)

 

This is not my personal experience, it's just what I read on the hamb. TPI-heavily adverstised in the magazines-poor quality and poorer customer service. Classic Instruments, good quality and support.

 

I currently have Stewart Warner Stage III gauges. I prefer mechanical versus electrical, just preference and less wiring. I'll be changing them out soon for the autometer gauges because I like the look of the gauges. It has that Streetrod, Dragracing (don't mess with this) look versus the classic cruiser vintage look.

 

I have the Ford Masterpiece gauges. They are made by Autometer and have worked flawlessly. If I was to get a different set, I would probably just go with Autometer gauges with a black face

 

I bought a set of VDO gauges from Southern Rods. They were advertised as a mechanical set. The only thing mechanical was the speedo, the rest were electric. The only additional item I had to buy for the installation was an adaptor plate for the gas tank sending unit to the original F-1 tank. At the time $165 was a lot cheaper than $279 for the complete electric set. That was over two years ago and not a problem.

 

Thanks for all the good information, one question though in regards to the electrical speedometer, what is a pulse generator and how does it work? Does it attach to the tranny?

 

Tom,
Just getting ready to start on my 55 installing a ez21 harness and dolphin mech six gauge set. Will keep you posted. Plan to go ahead and install a mustang 16 gal tank in the frame as well while I got er down. Will be moving the ignition back to the dash with a starter button and cleaning up the steering column. Will be updating my gallery along the way. Looked at a lot of options and liked the six gauge setup best for our dashes. Good Luck...

 

Huntsman-
The pulse generator fastens to the transmission where the cable formally was attached. It converts the mechanical rotation to an electric pulse which the speedo reads and drives the needle. Most of the guage sets either come with the pulse generator or they offer it as an option. As I recall, just two small wires to hook up, one signal and one ground.

 

Thanks LEckart for the info on the pulse generator, it shouldn't be too big of a deal to change out.

Joe,
Did you get your 6 gauge dash insert from Dolphin?

 

Tom,
Bought it and the EZ21 harness at the Supernats this year. The compnay is in Ormond near Daytona abought 45 minutes from me here in Orlando. The six gauge billet inserts at least at that time were a little hard to find but I think now you can find them pretty easy. Been trying to finish up other projects on the truck before I take on this one. Sounds like I may have an issue with matching up a sending unit to the mustang tank??? Not there yet so will start to fact find before I buy anything. Will dig up the info on who I purchased the Dolphing gauges and harness from if you need it.

 

I would appreciate the info Joe, PM it to me if you find it, Thanks.

 

I am looking at the Autometer C2 gauges. There fuel gauge is supposed to be programmable. Does anyone know how that works or if it can be programed for the mustang tank?

 

In the short sweep electrical section, it shows a different gauges for the mustang tank range, 79->10 ohms

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugeli...&opid=2&szid=2

Sam

 

For all you who have decided on the Mustang tank, but not yet on gauges, if you haven't put gas in the tank yet.

The Autometer 3262 Universal (adjustable height) fuel sender uses the aftermarket standard 240->33 ohm range. This requires a 2 in hole in the top of the tank..

I'm going to do this on a new 22gal tank. Then I can use any gauges/set I want. The sender is $37 from Autozone.. I found one on ebay for $27 including shipping. (but I gotta change tanks to the 22 from the 16)..

Sam

 

The 33-240, 0-90 and 10-180 ohm are supported well, it's when you get to the later model Ford senders that uses 16-158 ohm is when the support dwindles. My problem is I'm using an internal pump and sender from a 89 F150 in my tank and that required cutting a approx. 4" hole in the top of the tank and installing the lock ring deal for access. The sender, pump and fuel lines all go in that one hole.

Adding the new sender is what they all want you to do, all the "kits" with 5 or 6 gauge combos that I found include the 33-240 ohm fuel senders.