Alright, I'll throw my 2 cents worth of problems in here as well........... get ready......
If I let mine sit for longer than 24 hours without being run it will start up and do the chug, chug, chug thing as well...............
BUT, mine will do it for sometimes 10-20 minutes. It will sloooowly taper off until it's no longer noticeable. If you give it some gas it just romps harder at a higher RPM. It's like driving the damn thing with half of the injectors disconnected. It has a few dead cylinders.....
Mine only does this in cool-cold weather. During the summer it was fine.
I think I have a fuel drainback issue. The only thing I can compare it to was when I ran out of fuel. Once I filled it, cycled the pump and got it to light off it romped for about a half hour.
I think what's happening is the cool weather is causing the fuel lines to contract or something possibly letting some air in the fuel lines before the pump. I have yet to do the hutch/pre pump stuff so only time will tell.....
Just thought I'd share this before you went spending money for nothing!
Anyway, where's the ICP sensor? How hard is it to remove and clean? Maybe that's my problem?
ICP sensor is right behind the alternator. It has a connection on top with 3 wires going into it. You tap into those wires to do the 10k mod. Mine had a bad connection at the sensor. I would start there first. Hope it helps. It is mounted on the drivers side head about 6-8 inches from the front of the engine. Look down behind the alt. inside the valley on the drivers side
Last edited by Duane99; 10-31-2006 at 10:50 PM.
Reason: more info
Install NGS Tester. Turn A/C off. Access ICP PID on NGS Tester and monitor ICP pressure. Operate the engine at 3400 rpm for 3 minutes. This test should be performed with engine at normal operating temperature.
will this engine turn that fast without coming apart?
Yes. They don't really show thier true worth until you load up the truck to capacity. I mean REALLY load it up. A 3000lb camper is nothing. Add 10,000 lbs and you are just starting to make it breath hard.
They just don't have the time to spool up the turbo and really show you how they can get the job done when the truck is empty. You'll hit the rev/speed limiter first.
__________________
Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
I just bought a 99 250 7.3 PSD. It's great and I would never buy another gas powered truck. The only problem (?) I have is a weird idle when it is cool, the RPM's jump and drop for the first 30-40 seconds, but it is fine once it gets warmed up. This is my first diesel vehicle, but I don't think they are supposed to do this. Anyone else have this problem or know how to solve it?
Thanks,
Dan
cookie88 says his truck has an "idle surge" when he uses a perticular brand of synthetic oil.
jimbo
__________________ WANTED: Someone to go back in time with me. You'll get
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cookie88 says his truck has an "idle surge" when he uses a perticular brand of synthetic oil.
jimbo
Mine does too, but it's barely noticable and only during the time that's between fully cold and fully warmed up. I've tried Mobil 1 Delvac 5-40 and Rotella syn 5-40. Both have a struggling idle during warm up.
If I use dino 15-40, it's smooth all the time.
__________________
Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Mine does too, but it's barely noticable and only during the time that's between fully cold and fully warmed up. I've tried Mobil 1 Delvac 5-40 and Rotella syn 5-40. Both have a struggling idle during warm up.
If I use dino 15-40, it's smooth all the time.
I noticed mine was doing it a little using Rotella 5W40 syn. (actually cookie pointed it out) I use Royal Purple 15W40 now and it's no longer an issue.
BTW. I'm getting 1˝ to 2 miles better mileage out of the RP.
jimbo
__________________ WANTED: Someone to go back in time with me. You'll get
paid after we getback. Must bring your own weapons.
Safety not guaranteed. I have only done this once before. www.jimkidd.com
I have the same symtpom on my 97. My 2000 does the same thing. If I plug it in overnight it starts fine. This is what I found on the Dieselmans page.
1999-02 Cold Start Rolling Idle:
Some F-Series, Excursions and Econolines with the PowerStroke engine may exhibit an erratic idle on cold start. This condition typically only occurs on the first start of the day in cool or cold temperatures and generally lasts for less than a minute. The condition may clear if the throttle is depressed. Using a 10W-30 oil with a n API serive rating of CF-4 or higher may dampen the effect, but should only be used if ambient temperatures will not rise above 80 degrees. There is no repair information available; engineering is investigating.
Broadcast Message 2758
94-03 7.3 Idle Lope on Cold Start:
Ford has determined that the engine loping on a cold start is a characteristic of the engine. They are recommending to use a lower viscosity oil--10W-30 meeting API service CH-4 or CI4--to reduce the condition. They also suggest plugging in the block heater when outside temperatures are below 30 degrees and/or waiting up to two minutes with the key on before starting the engine to allow the glow plugs to fully heat the cylinders. Broadcast Message 1050
MIne did the surge thing at a red light a few weeks ago, it was very warm i had it loaded up with a trailer for the preivios 4 hours at speeds over 70 mph. It pulled a 1280 code and thanks to some help from this site. I pulled the plug on the ICP cleaned the connection replaced and no problem since. I sure hope its fixed now.
Last edited by barbershop; 02-25-2007 at 11:40 PM.
Reason: not spelling correctly
Mine does the same thing and it is 68-72 in the morning here in florida. I've changed the oil to ford oil, checked the icp, the gpr and every thing else i've read or heard of. The pedal sensor sounds logical but, i don't want to spend 120 dollars to find out. I bought the AE scantool and it passes all the tests and throws no codes.
I was just reading on someone having bucking issues and the thought of bad fuel pump pressure might do it, do any of you diesel mechs have any idea on this?
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