Each time I take my truck (71 F-250, 360 CID) in for an oil/filter change, the attendant asks me if I want to have the engine flushed--a procedure in which he would drain the crankcase, fill it with a mixture of chemicals (MTE 742, Lubegard, or something similar), run it for a short period, drain the chemicals, and refill the crankcase with regular oil.

I can easily do this procedure myself, but I'm wondering if it's worthwhile--and safe. Does anyone have any experience with it?

I will be grateful for your feedback.

Paul

 

Snake Oil IMHO, I wouldn't do it.

John

 

I would be a lot more concerned with flushing the cooling system every couple of years.

 

I have 97,00 on my 360 and got me some flush hoping for a little more oil pressure .. It now uses a quart every tank of gas ... It made it burn oil out the tail pipes 5 times worse than it did..

 

Paulpatter,
I wouldn't do it. Snake oil yes. Worse off I've seen seals swell from this then shrink then leak.
Hot428,
I would be surprised if your rear main doesn't leak or leak worse after doing that.

I am a believer in flushing by frequently changing the oil. I became that way due to tearing down a 64 292 that had a major oil leak. All of the oil that was put in and lost actually did a good job of cleaning it out. Valve covers and rockers were spotless. I guess fresh oil with the additives used do a better, gentler job of cleaning than running paint thinner through it.
I am not sold buying flushes or synthetics.
A quart of Type F will quiet lifters.
A quart of Kerosene will help cut the viscosity and maybe clean a little better.
I've done the Type F before.
Haven't done the kerosene though. They do that in the colder climates.

Peace

 

I am wondering in my mind how flushing the crankcase caused more oil to be burned. The crankcase cleaning shouldn't have made that much difference in the oil rings condition.

I disagree with the rear main idea, because unlike other engines the FE just doesn't leak from a properly installed rear main seals. They are huge leakers at the intake manifold and valve covers, and I suggest that you look at the rear of the engine near the top for oil on the outside of the block. I think that because the oil runs down by gravity the rear main seal gets blamed when it is not the culpret. IMHO

John

 

Flushing an engines oiling system serves 2 purposes for sure. It makes people money and it costs people money, but it does not fix cure, or repair, anything. Noboby puts mechanical tech's in a can or bottle. I would tell you DON'T DO IT if you don't plan to rebuild your engine anytime soon.

Logic asks, if stoppage is creating loss of Oil PSI, what will adding flush do if it can't flow through places where stoppage or restrictions occur?

If you change your oil & filter, using quality Oil & Filters, within 6,000 mi intervals, any Oil PSI loss is hardly due to blockage or sludge build up IMHO.
Flushing can cause old or worn oil rings to loosen & seep allowing oil to burn, and it can damage some seals like valve stem seals for instance.

FBp

 

The flush washes the build up around the rings and gaskets where they start leaking and bypassing oil .. The same will happen if you change over to a high detergent oil such as delo 400 (diesel oil) ..I've done that also ..If the motor has 80,000 miles then you know there is a ring groove at the top that will take a .030 bore job to clean up at the least...

 

[QUOTE]..If the motor has 80,000 miles then you know there is a ring groove at the top that will take a .030 bore job to clean up at the least...[QUOTE]

Where are you getting these numbers and facts from?

That means my 249K mile motor should take .093" "bore job to clean up at the least". Strange thing it still runs like a watch, how come as it should have 1/16" (.0625") piston to bore wear clearance allowing your".030 bore job to clean up at the least"? Shouldn't I be smoking with loss of compression with piston slap with that 1/16" (.0625") clearance.
What's your measurements on the rod and main bearings with the 80,000 mile motor your speaking about? If close to .010" can a person install .010" undersize bearings without turning the crank to save uneccessy machine work? I need facts and answers please.

 

I have done the kerosene method with some success. Granted it was a slant six but very noisy lifters and slight smoking. Start with the old oil add a quart of kero, let idle for 15 minutes, change oil and filter with cheapo, only four qts, add 1 qt kero, let idle 15 minutes, change oil and filter again. Fill with 5 qts as normal, drive a little, couple hours, couple days, change again. Lifters really quieted and smoking dissapeared on 75,000 mi engine. Also did a few others and went back and adjusted lifters and they improved.

 

I'm just looking back at the last 3 engines from the 60's that I rebuilt while painting the trucks .. The machine shop has bored them all 30 over and thats the pistons I had to get when I put them back together.. I take 67 to 72 ford & chevy 1/2 trucks to the frame then rebuild them , Between beers ..

 

Well, the oil used years ago did produce a LOT of sludge. Rather than flush the engine I would use Rotella motor oil for one oil change. It is a an engine oil for diesels and has more cleaning agents in it.

 

Yes Sir, I've taken the heads of a 360 FE and the hard crusty build up be over 1/2 and inch thick under the valve covers ...Of course I don't know when the oil was changed are the brand used.. Now days when I break in a new motor for my self at 3,000 miles I switch to a diesel oil (delo 400)for the rest of its days... I have two 1 ton gas powered fords that have over 100,000 miles pulling goose neck trailers . You pull the valve covers and it looks like new and using less than a 1 quart loss between changes keeping on a 5,000 mile service progam.. Not trying to offend people but pulling these tractors around the chevy trks won't make the grade ... #1 (454) threw a rod at 92,000 #2 (454) started burning so much oil it took more oil than gas. #3 stolen at 65,000 ..

 

Many thanks to all who responded to my question. The talent and insight that are exhibited on this board in post after post are, well, remarkable. I've definitely decided to flush the flushing idea to where it belongs (SOUND OF RUSHING WATER).

Just as a side note, when I was about 10 (I'm almost 71 now), my dad--a mechanic--took me to a meeting that featured a presentation by a Rislone salesman. He extolled the virtues of including a quart of Rislone with every oil change, and my Dad took his advice. I see that Rislone is still being marketed. Given the fact that today's oils already contain beneficial additives and detergents, are products such as Rislone still useful or necessary? (I intend no disrespect to the folks who make such products, including the Shaler Company).

Thanks again,

Paul

 

Then you must be the era of Marvel's Mystery Oil the top end oil many people added to their oil and gas. Any oil in the gas lowers the gas octane numbers, oil it a detonant.
Old habits are hard to change even with new and better oil and gas. New gas with detergents these days not crap loaded with alcohol and oxygenated would run great.