I just replaced the stock DMF clutch configuration with a LUK solid flywheel and Southbend clutch on my 96 F-250 2WD PSD. Clutch works much better but now I have a new noise. When clutch pedal is in the fully released position, there is a steady rattle, rattle, rattle comming from the clutch area. When I press the clutch pedal a fraction of an inch, the noise goes away. When looking at the clutch fork while idling, it is vibrating and this is where the noise is comming from. Just applying a bit of pressure on clutch fork by hand makes the rattle noise go away.

The new flywheel came with a bushing in it, but it acts like the bushing is missing or not centered.

Any ideas?

 

Welcome to FTE Bob.

How was the surface of the input shaft where the TOB rides on it? Seems like if you actually had a runout problem with the input shaft the shake would be intolerable.

Might also be a problem with the clutch hydraulics...not putting enough pressure on the clutch fingers?

 

Input shaft appeared to be OK. In fact, with the original DMF and old clutch, there was no rattle when the clutch was fully engaged and clutch pedal up.

I thought that there should be no pressure on clutch fingers until you start to apply pressure on clutch pedal. If I ride the clutch, there is no noise but that leads to premature TOB failure.

 

I would check to be sure all of the clutch linkage is adjusted right. If i remember right there is an adjustment between the cylinder and the forks. Unless of course yours is the kind that the cylinder is inside the bellhousing itself. Slack in the adjustment might account for both the rattle, and its magical ceasing once you press the pedal.

 

possible you have a bent clutch fork?????????

my sbc instructions said to adjust any fingers on the press plate that were not straight. did you do that?

does your slave rod have the plastic cap on the end for easier install still? is it off now and was on before?

 

The Luk flywheel (LFW140) is disigned to be used with the LUK clutch #07154. Maybe you might have a problem with the Southbend clutch you purchased in that the finger height is lower (when bolted) causing the t.o.b. to not ride on the pressure plate like it is supposed to? Remember-on hyd. clutches there is allways constant pressure on the clutch fingers with the T.O.B..

 

Welcome to FTE White Bronco!!

 

Ty "Cookie"... :-) hope i can help the peeps out w/ clutch problems since that is my speciality...15 yrs soley dealing with clutches.. just trying to lend a hand to us Ford peeps!

 

Nice....glad to have you aboard.

 

Uhhh... No, I did not do that.

There is not a plastic cap on the end of the slave rod. Don't know if it ever had one. Bought the truck used a couple of months ago. Is there supposed to be a plastic cap on there?

 

When new the rod is held into the slave cylinder by a plastic strap that breaks off the first time you apply hydraulic pressure. Normally the end of that strap remains trapped between the end of the rod and the shift fork. I think what Ryan was thinking is that the 1/16" difference between plastic and no plastic could make the difference.......but hydraulic clutches are self adjusting so it makes no difference if that piece is still there or not.

Honestly I still think the problem is in your hydraulics. The fingers on the pressure plate are not that easy to bend and unless it was damaged during shipping should be very close. You can get a comple hydraulic assembly (reservoir, master, and slave) completely assembled and pre bled from Ford for around $130. Takes about 30 minutes to install it out if you wanted to go that route.