Has anyone recondition/repaint their stock manifolds? if so what did you use to sand and paint them? sandblast, grinding wheel etc.
Jaye

 

Jaye,

I'm just about to do mine and I'll be grit blasting them but I haven't decided what coating to use. I know there are ceramic coatings designed to last on exhaust stuff but I don't know how much they cost. I plan to do the front crossover the same way as the manifolds whichever way I go.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-Dec-02 AT 06:57 PM (EST)]Jaye

Definitely blast them. I use aggressive media such as aluminum oxide but silica works too. (wear a mask) Brushing them won't get all the rust. Some of the Eastwood paint products are probably about as good as any. I haven't found anything truly permanent out of an aerosol can yet, but they are getting better. I like to bake engine parts in the oven for a good cure and best durability. Some of the exhaust products even recommend it on the label now.

'fenders

 

i had the manifolds of my six ceramic coated two years ago. it cost
$125 with me doing all of the prep work like blasting and grinding the seams. i live at the beach and they still look good.i'd post a picture but i can't figgure out how. tim

 

 

I just painted the exhaust manifolds on my 289. I removed them then used a wire wheel to get all the loose rust off. Then I coated them twice in POR-15 using a brush. I like the grey color, but you have several choices. I then reinstalled them and ran the engine for about 5 miles. It looks new. I have heard that it should be very long lasting. Good luck, John

 

I've had great luck on several projects with sandblasting (with Silica sand) and then brush painting with the Eastwood stainless steel coating. It lasts a very long time and looks like bare cast iron. The only other thing I do is replace the studs and (carefully) hand file the sealing surfaces. If it leaks, you have to send it to the machine shop to have a cut taken off the sealing surface.
Dan

 

Stick them in a 4 parts water & 1 part sulphated molasses solution for a week or so. They will look like new, inside and out. Get paint and grease off first.

I wouldnt use POR as its not rated at high temperatures and its not letting the heat escape into the air. End result is higher combustion chamber temperatures and a potential for pre ignition (pinging)as well as decreased combustion efficiency.
Stick to a very thin coat of Eastwoods or other coating designed for the purpose.

 

Carl,
Where would I get the sulphated molasses solution from? auto parts store, etc.
Thanks
Jaye

 

It's carried at feed and grain stores as part of horse feed mix. Often sold in 55gal drums but many will pour into a 5 gal pail. I pay around $15 for 5 gal and that lasts a long time.
Old farmers trick thats been around for centuries.

It can be reused until it doesnt work and is enviro safe. I thin it out a bit and pour in the garden, a full solution can burn roots. Also seems to keep root eating grubs away.
Stinks after awhile so dont do it in the house.

Use it here for blocks, straight axles, wishbones, heads, 35 wire wheels, down to small parts. Have several different containers.

Attacks aluminum but is also great for dunking carbs for short periods.

Check the work every few days and brush or pressure wash off the build up. Takes me 2 weeks to get a block looking like it came from the foundry. Less time for other items.

It creates organic acids that dont attack the base metal of steel/iron so you can use clean metal containers if you want to provide some heat. I use an old cast iron water trough for the axles and 'bones.

 

Carl,
I got your post too late I'll check the feed & grain if this stuff I have is no good. I just return from Advanced auto and got some stuff called Right Stuff, formula #3000 De-Ruster and metal conditioner. It is suppose to turn rust into some type of phosphate then a hard tacky rust resister layer that is perfect for priming. Has anyone used this suff, if so would it be Ok on manifolds.
Thanks
Jaye

 

Jaye

In my opinion, the only true long term solution to rust is to remove it down to the base metal. Abrasive blasting is my method of choice. I just don't have faith in any magic products that turn the rust into something good. I know there are some POR fans here. I just don't want rust under my paint period.

Carl's way sounds very interesting. I have never tried it but it sounds just perfect for those places you just can't sand blast.

'fenders

 

>Carl's way sounds very interesting. I have never tried it
>but it sounds just perfect for those places you just can't
>sand blast.

Ah kin sandblast anywheres you gots metal! Molasses is fer eatin', not feedin' to mah manifold!

Carl, it does sound like an interesting option. I'm going to give it a try on some parts and see what happens as soon as I can get hold of some magic goo.

 

Hi,
I wonder if "tool black" would hold up? When I was running a CNC shop, our lathe's tool holders were all coated with tool black. We were a 24 hr / 7day operation machining parts made of salt (pressed at 50,000 PSI). We also used the same holders to machine metal parts with coolant. The coating held up well, but heat wasn't a factor. anybody ever try this? Just an idea

 

Kenny

Are you talking about a black phosphate like coating, or something more like a gun bluing finish. Your lathe was probably made of a much highly quality steel that was less prone to rust than an exhaust manifold.

I wonder if this is too high temp application for powder coating?

'fenders