I am rebuilding the steering on my 50 F1. Is the ball on the spindle arm designed to press out or do I need to replace the entire spindle arm (my shop manual does not show it as a removeable part, but I've seen the ball for sale at an on line parts shop). The ball on the spindle is a different material, but I want to make sure it is designed to come out before I go there. I know the pitman arm is a single piece. I've pulled both and both are worn. Any help will be appreciated.

 

I don't have the answer to your question, but if you need another steering box, I have one. It's out of a 48 F-3, so I'm not totally sure it's the same as your 50 F-1, but probably.

 

>I am rebuilding the steering on my 50 F1. Is the ball on
>the spindle arm designed to press out or do I need to
>replace the entire spindle arm (my shop manual does not show
>it as a removeable part, but I've seen the ball for sale at
>an on line parts shop). The ball on the spindle is a
>different material, but I want to make sure it is designed
>to come out before I go there. I know the pitman arm is a
>single piece. I've pulled both and both are worn. Any help
>will be appreciated.

I don't have info for your 1950 F1 but I suspect old Henry used a similar setup on my 1956.

The ball and a stud that goes through the spindle arm are all one piece. The end of the stud on the opposite side of the spindle arm from the ball is swaged to lock the unit into the spindle arm.

1. Grind off the swaged part of the ball-and-stud without messing up the spindle arm.
2. Use a hydraulic press to push out the old ball-and-stud.
3. Press in the new ball-and-stud.
4. With a torch, heat the end of the stud sticking through the spindle arm.
5. Use the press to swage the hot end of the stud. This will lock the new ball-and-stud in place in the spindle arm. We ground a conical point on the end of a grade 8, 3/4" bolt and pressed it into the hot end of the stud. Worked like a charm.

George

Truck restoration - does the fun ever start?
See my 1956 F-250 in progress at www.clubfte.com/users/earl/index.html

 

Some of my parts books show a picture of a threaded ball stud with a castellated nut and cotter pin, but my 48 F1 has the stud swedged like George describes.

Parts sources do show different parts numbers for F1/F100's and F2/F200 up.

 

I used a splined ball that I got from Carpenter's and it worked just like described above, except I installed mine with a bench mounted vise (definitely not recommended, it took several hours).

 

 

George and others,

Thanks!!!

Worked exactly as you described. I'm putting it all back together today. Your instructions were invaluable.

Thanks again,

v/r
Chris