The rebuild parts for the Jag wqill be more expensive. See the above posts. However, the cost of the Jag plus all the parts to rebuild it will be about 1/2 the cost of a complete M11 kit. There is less work/welding installing the jag than the M11 IMHO

 

Hi guy's new loger on the site and yes I'm fitting a jag f/e at the moment to one of my effie's unfortunatly here in victoria down under we need engineers inspection for conversions (bugger) what I've done is to remove the front extention arms and bushes from the Jag X-member weld in plates .10x.30x.280 either side of x-member making shaw it aligns under the chassis (heat bend) where applicable then drill holes either end of each plate and the chassis where the frontend will be located,align chassis,plate,frontend into the prefered position tac weld plate to frontend remove frontend from chassis weld both plates onto frontend then run gussets down each end of plates for supports then you have a boltin-boltout frontend. It would be an advantage to weld supports into "C" section of chassis for boxing ONLY TO SUPPORT THE FRONTEND remember to much boxing can trigger cracking in chassis where boxing finishes so only box approx .300 (12") at frontend bolt up,remember to weld bolts onto your chassis pior to doing your boxing work..I also changing my rear springs to mitzubishi L300 springs. If anybody wishes to Know how email me tony@whatsonwhere.com.. Jag f/e makes it easy to do engine transplants.....

 

The Jag FE will lower the front significantly, you probably won't want to go any lower for a DD or you won't clear speedbumps. I wouldn't expect the rebuild parts to be significantly more expensive (a bearing is a bearing, a ball joint is a ball joint, a brake pad is a brake pad, no more expensive to produce for one application than another)and is much less likely to need them, the MII parts were under designed even for the 2000# Pinto from the factory and that wierd semi trailing arm lower control arm was a big contributor to early wear. Jag sedans weren't beat to death by young kids like MIIs either. Besides as I mentioned above the current MII conversions use almost no stock MII parts in them, so the parts availabilty is a myth.

 

Parts availability is good, there's lots of import and jag specialty parts houses that stock everything. My local Bap-geon parts house has everything on a next day basis. Pricing is more than a domestic, but not bad,(see willards post) and the front ends are stout so a full rebuild is long term. My front came from an '84, it's all original, and still servicable. Poly bushings and upgraded ball joints are available, and that's what I'll install. I'm going to rebuild it and run it the rest of my life. As far as lowering is concerned, the lower coil spring plate bolts onto the bottom of the control arm. You can space the plate down and use longer bolts to lower as much as you want. According to the folks at jag-lovers, a 1" spacer either lowers the front 2", or 3", depending on who you belive. I havn't tried it myself yet, but I'll post when I do.

 

hi man thats goood to know but I have just ordered and paid for 1 1/2' lowered springs thanks alot will keep it in mind as I have @1953-54-55-56-70 models to rebuild for my own use' at the moment I'm making a full tilt front of glass of course double paneled to stop twisting which will be universial all models, please tell me what suppliers there are of effie parts in the states as i hope to come over there soon as well chase up on line, again many thanks ...tony

 

Try looking at the ford areostar vans. The unit unbolts from the frame (basically a u-bolt style) and can be rolled over to your fame as a complete unit. Drill a couple of hole in your frame and it should bolt right one. I do not know if the frame's are the same width. My 64 ford was. I found out about this from a guy who was using them under merc's. You get the a-arm suspension, rack, and it lowers the truck all in one cheap package.

 

Thanks for all the replies, I haven't been on since Friday morning so I happy to see all the info I have to digest. Let's make sure I've got at least what to look for correct:

XJ6 Series 2 or 3 (late 70's thru '86)
XJS Up to approx '90
with Vented 4 puck calipers

Ax, you said this setup will lower it significantly, do you know roughly how much? The roads around here are not the best. My wife runs a '70 Plymouth Satellite and I just finished rebuilding the front end back to stock height due to being lowered and worn out it kept bottoming out.

Alieneffie, sounds like you have a fleet of effies, which year are you putting the jag setup on? Got any pics?

Ottoparts, not sure why but I haven't look at the Aerostar very much, not sure why, sounds like its fairly easy as well. Might have to look a litte closer at it.

Thanks again to all. Let me digest this for a couple days and I'll be back. Have a great day!

 

hi man I'll doing the 55 first as it is rego'ed at the moment saves a lot of hassels but what ever I do I do in two's so they both have jag frontends & 9"disc **** ends so as 56 will be easier then the 53 then 54, all p/u's will be different the 55 with yankie stepside,56 canadian stepside/w-spare wheel 53 will have aussie style side with hard cover and the 54 will have a .60 roof chop top with my own design step side that I have built, three of the four will have glass front flip and the 53 will be all steel and they all run 351's with c6/c10. the only one being brought back to stock is the 53 and in between all that the 69 will have a resto....(then i can go home for dinner) does't that scare ya

 

Won't be too low for a DD unless you bag it. The original Effies sat pretty high, so even a 5-6" drop isn't a lot. There's a big difference between a worn suspension that bottoms out because moving parts contact non moving parts and a suspension that sits low by design that still has plenty of travel and ground clearance. The Jag falls into the latter. You can always add a taller wheel or tire if you find the need for more ground clearance to drive over curbs and small cars.

 

Just to clarify
* Vented Rotors
* 4 puck calipers