does anyone know where to find a fiberglass front clip for a 50 truck. i saw them on usbody website and they are a little too proud of theirs. i would like to find one a little cheaper.

 

epp

cheaper ain't usually an option.....

try fairlane fiberglass

www.fairlanecompanymi.com


but you're looking at about 1500.0o PLUS shipping


later
John

 

pm sent..........

 

Hi epp, I have also seen this tilt front ends at classicautoparts.com, I wouldn't know who manufactures them it may be Fairlane but you'd have to check. I was also thinking of using one on my 56 f100 but was dicouraged from doing so by a fellow who had one on his 50 f-1, he said that they fibrate alot and wear the paint to bare metal , so when I went to a few car shows I looked to find any trucks that had the tilt front ends and it was as this fellow said,all but the freshly painted one had rub spots to bare metal. I 'm not trying to discourage you because there are probably many members of this site that have this front end and would be a better authority on this subject, hope this helps.

John

 

You could build your own glass front end. I know, it's not really feasible but I would be an interesting idea. I thought about doing it just to do it but I know it would be a lot of work and expense. I found this web site that does a good job of explaining how to do it.

http://www.hotrodder.com/32Blowpar/index.html

 

Building anything out of fiberglass is very feasible...all you need is a willingness to learn the proper technique and a desire to see the project through. I took an ROP (Regional Opportunity Program) class in plastics technology here in SoCal, it was a freebee provided by the state to train residents in various occupational fields. After two semesters I came away with a certification and a ton of knowledge about plastics. Building a mold is much easier today than it ever was in the past. There are materials available now that can be rolled out in sheets and laid over an existing shape to create a mold in a single step...no more layer after layer of fabric and resin!
If someone really wanted to build a mold and cast their own glass one-piece front clip I believe that it could be done by most anyone.

 

Charlie,

Do you have any product names? I would be interested in looking into them. I worked for five years in a truck body shop and make the mistake of being very good at repairing damaged truck front ends. Everytime a wreck came in I got the job of patching it together and making it look new again. Fiberglass if very easy to work with but is very messy and very, very itchy.

 

I was contemplating this route once, and checked into 1-pieces for my 52. Most of these are meant for racing and therefore lightweight. One outfit in Florida who makes them sells two versions - racing and street. Their street version weighs 2x the racing version. I know guys who've made their own mold and they put a steel tubing frame inside to make them rigid and provide a frame for the tilt hinges. The glass is just a cover over the steel. When done like that they are plenty strong and rigid.

You have to figure out headlights, there's usually no grille provisions, and lots of finishing is required. As noted, shipping costs are huge!

 

I have thought about welding my ratty steel pieces together and making a tilt front end.

If you add up all the parts that are on the Fairlaine tilt kit (fenders, valance, air deflectors, and hood) you'll think the tilt kit is a steal.

Now putting it on...

 

Keep your eyes open on eBay. There are still a few deals out there. I picked up a fiberglass one piece front end for a hundred bucks. 280 more to ship. Got the whole deal for less than some pay for shipping. I didn't realize it at the time but the guy had said no shipping. Local pickup only. Well after I bid and won I noticed that disclaimer. I emailed him and offered him some money for wasting his time and he said he would find out a shipping cost for me. He turned out to be a first class type guy. John

 

...Not to hijack this thread but I have thought about doing this too...anyone know of any sites or instructions on how to use the stock steel parts as an alternative to the fiberglass?

 

I made the decision to go front flip a long time ago... with glass.
I've looked at everyone I could get to and there are a lot of metal ones out there...

It's basically this... you bolt the fenders,valance, air dam, etc. together just like Henry did. when you're ready to add the hood you need to add some washers as spacers for two reasons... one, so it will look right and two so it will fit right.

You could probably keep the inner fenders with some trimming, but they couldn't bolt to the firewall... AND, if you don't tilt far enough forward they will be in the way when working "under" the hood. the bottom of the fenders will have to be cut to clear the cab or cut up around the body line just like fiberglass. Bumper will have to be eliminated or at the very least (which ain't no little feat) will have to be cut off with the frame horns and mounted to the tilt section, the front valance won't arc over without hitting the frame rails. I cut my bumper off and about 8" of frame rail.. I'll be smooth on the front

Then fab up some kind of 'substantial' arms and hinges to tilt it .... and there you go...Bob's your uncle.

It IS significantly heavier than glass and while I've never lifted one it's probably a two man job if you don't use electric or hydraulic assists. Latches and rests and padding will have to be done just like with glass... Radiator support will have to be designed and fabbed since the air dam/deflector is flipping forward. If you're planning on a/c there are other considerations on hose routing/mounting. wiring will have to have adequate slack... all the usual PIAs that you deal with. My fabrication guru's rule is... (Pay attention this is wise stuff) "If you change ONE thing... it will change three more by itself"... it has always proved right

but it is doable and cheaper (though, probably not in time) than glass.. IMHO I have never seen one that was as 'clean' looking when open, there's just too many edges and turns and such..... but we all know where 'beauty' is.


One last thing.... this ain't no project for the mechanically challanged.. it takes some fabrication/welding/alchemy skills and lots of time... I'll bet I've got over a hundred hours in the glass unit and it still ain't finished... (see article below) You can almost say "Professional driver on closed course...DO NOT try this at home"... but not quite.. I just don't want anyone to think it's an easy weekend project.

I've probably left out several major details... but you'll find them Saturday evening about 10:45 pm gud luck

if you want to see where I am on mine (glass)...
tilt front end article

later
john

 

A couple POs back had made a steel flip front on my panel from the stock parts, fortunately bolting them together and without cutting the fenders. The PO before me converted it back saying it took two men and a boy to open it, it scraped on the cowl and the fenders flapped like they were birds wings. He left the hinges in place to support the front since they had torch cut the mounts off the inner fenders, ruining pristine inner fenders. If using the metal parts to make a flip, you also have to decide how to deal with the radiator mount and the parts it normally supports since in Henry's original design the entire front clip hangs off the radiator horseshoe. I have since removed the chrome flip hinges so they are available if someone really wants to go that route.

 

One of the better tutorial videos available right now is put out by Freeman Supply...they are promoting their products but in the process are introducing some very good techniques for fabricating parts and molds. These DVDs are available on ebay for $8.95
http://cgi.ebay.com/DVD-Making-Parts...QQcmdZViewItem
A small price to pay for a lot of info on various products and how to use them.

 

i personally tried to use the original metal body pieces and it was just to heavy to work with so i bought the fiberglass front end from us body for my 78 f250. its came alittle more ruff straight from the mold than i would have liked but o well. the hinges they send with it are junk so i made my own the work great from an old set of spring hangers and a set of drop shackels i got from a lowering kit