<center><font size="1" color="#ff0000">LAST EDITED ON Jun-12-99 AT 05:06&nbsp;PM (EST)</font></center>

LAST EDITED ON Jun-12-99 AT 05:03 PM (EST)

Hey guys,
I pulled the covers today and found that the intake gasket stuck up slightly above the plain of the gasket area. The top rear or the gasket was cut badly. I knocked down the ends and put on new gaskets. I hope that this works. Thanks for the replies.


John










I have Edelbrock chrome valve covers, with rubber gaskets on my 66 352 with 3500 miles on the install. I can't get the darn things to stop leaking oil. I was under the impression that the rubber was better, than cork, but not these babies. The rubber came with the covers, and have been snugged four or five times, to no avail. The valve covers were installed at the time of the rebuild, and have about 3500 miles on them

 

A friend of mine had chrome valve covers with rubber gaskets on his chevy 396 and had some trouble with leaking. We got some "High-tack" adhesive, it's made by Permatex, it's red and holds very well. We put some on the cover and let the gasket dry to it for several minutes and then used a little silicone for the gasket to the head (that way if you need to take it off the gasket will stick to the valve cover and not break or stick to the head). I've also had good luck with the spray adhesives.

What ever you use it is very important that the surfaces are clean and free of oil and dirt. I use a rag damp with carb cleaner to clean the surfaces.

 

Is it possible that the covers are warped? Are they leaking everywhere or just at a few places?
You could try cork gaskets with high heat RTV silicone. This will fill in any imperfections and most likely stop the leak.
You could even use the RTV with the rubber gaskets. You dont need a lot just a small layer on the covers and another one on the gasket mating surface for the head. Make sure you cover the area all around the bolt holes and dont overtighten the bolts. Also clean off any oil or dirt prior to using the RTV.
Hope this helps.

 

<center><font size="1" color="#ff0000">LAST EDITED ON Jun-04-99 AT 10:32&nbsp;AM (EST)</font></center>

 

Leaky valve covers on a resent rebuild? I'll assume that a breather oil filler cap was re-installed. It's nice to use some type of tack material on the gaskets; however, not for it's sealing properties, but for it's holding ability. You don't want the gaskets moving around when you install them. Look at the mating surface of your covers. Are they perfectly flat? If they are, that's too bad. They will leak. What you want is to have is the surface between each hold down bolt hole slightly lower than the holes themselves. That way, when you lightly torque the bolts, you pull the mating surface flat. I usually place two chunks of wood under two adjacent holes. Then, LIGHTLY tap between the two holes, using a third chunk of wood as padding. You don't want to put a sharp dent in your covers. Work your way around the cover. When you're done, there should be a just barely noticible downward curve between holes. Don't over do it! Torque the covers on around 5 ft/pounds, which is just beyond finger tight. It takes a little time, but it's a lot more fun than wiping the oil off your headers.

 

<center><font size="1" color="#ff0000">LAST EDITED ON Jun-05-99 AT 06:17&nbsp;AM (EST)</font></center>

I'm assuming they're leaking from the infamous junction on FE engines where the heads, manifold, and rocker cover meet.

1. Make sure that the manifold gasket has been trimmed flush and does not protrude from between the head and manifold. Use a file or dremel tool. Make sure not to let any filings into the engine by stuffing a rag around the last valve spring and pushrod.

2. Clean and degrease the junction area with spray carb or brake cleaner or other strong solvent and let it dry thoroughly.

3. Put a small dab of hi-temp silicone sealer right at the junction just before installing the rocker cover. Cork gaskets may work better because of that crazy 3 way junction.

4. Make sure your rocker covers are not deformed at the bolt holes from over torquing. If they are, pound them flat or get new ones, then use those load spreaders under the bolts that you see at the speed shops all the time.

That should do it.

 

I hope that the covers aren't warped, This was an all new deal. The oil is on the headers and starter. Thease covers have slots in the sides of them with gasket tabs. I will pull them off in a few days to see if I can find the problem. Thanks for the reply.

John