If the amount of work needed is extensive (complete floor for example) or involves structural members I'd suggest welding in cross and diagonal braces before removing it from the frame to maintain alignment. Nothing worse than doing a whole lot of work only to find it was sitting lopsided or warped while you were working on it and now you have a nicely repaired crooked cab and nothing will align right.

 

That's a great idea Jeff! Is that a beefed-up engine stand? Does the firewall take any damage? Do you use washers?
I'll be doing that when I pull my cab off.

 

John,
I removed my cab using a boom-type engine hoist, as pictured by someone else in an earlier thread. My stripped cab appears to weigh less than a 351W, and my lift had no problem at full extension. YMMV.
Son and I removed the front clip and both doors, then verified all connections between cab and frame were removed.
At the big-box I picked out a knot-free 2x6, eight feet long (six would do, but they apparently don't grow 'em shorter than eight). I marked the center (4') where the boom would bear, then screwed a 1.5x12" strip of .75" plywood on either side of the bearing area of the boom. That keeps the boom from sliding off the width of the 2x6 and putting a sharp peak in your roof.
I jockeyed the hoist in from one side, while the lad stood opposite and held the 2x6 against the top of the door openings. Visualize: the length of the boom is aligned with the length and grain of the 2x6, both running side-to-side in the cab. With the boom raised enough to pin the 2x6 loosely, we centered it side-to-side. Then we eyeballed the front-rear balance point and made a tentative lift.
If it comes up level---congratulations, keep going. If it comes up nose low or tail low---set 'er down and tap the 2x6 a fraction of an inch to the low side, then make another tentative lift. Repeat until successful.
The 2x6 flexed, did not crack, and did not kiss the cab roof---but it was close. In hindsight, I recommend some insurance: a 15x15" square of thin plywood wrapped in a towel atop the 2x6... or just pony up another buck and buy a 2x8 instead. (Yeah, I'm a tightwad.)

 

Mech , Did you really drill holes in the back of your cab & firewall ?

 

1stoldtruck...do you have pictures of that contraption? I was thinking of doing something simular.

 

I used 2 holes that were already in the firewall, but had to drill holes in the rear wall. They are easy to fill with the Mig welder though.
The frame is similar to a double engine stand.
Jeff

 

If I had extensive cab work to do, this would be a necessity for me. It would make the entire process of cutting ginding and welding a lot easier. Bracing the cab as AX has suggested, before removing or cutting structural parts out will also save a lot of grief on down the line. Nice job!

 

My method was similar to 1stoldtrucks although I just used a 2X6 and lifted the thing:



Turned out to be surprisingly stable. I would do anything except remove the cab like this, but it worked well.

 

John, I like that method. I was thinking along the same lines when I bought my engine hoist the other day. I purchased the 2 ton because of the size and height it got over the 1ton hoist and besides that it was on sale.

 

I was able to con a couple buddies over and the three of us lifted it off. After that I was on my own to move it around. I didn't have much rust to fix on the cab but to slide it around the garage I used 2 short (6"long) 6x6 and screwed them with a small lage to the front cab mounts and I put a 2x6 down flat for the rear corners to rest on. This seemed to work good for me.

 

I like the idea with the engine hoist.

A piece of 4 x 2 steel, with two tabs welded to it that mounted to the chain pin would make it a whole lot more stable, and it wouldn't bow.

I have the same thing, only with chain locks on the ends........since I have a full over head gantry......

 

I took my cab off the frame last weekend. My son and three of his buddies lifted it and walked it off the back of the frame and set it on a frame I made out old bed frame angle iron. I made it 42 inches by 42 inches and put a wooden pallet on it. Put four casters on it that lock from a junk store. Cost my 6 dollars and 3 hours, works great. Now with the frame out of my two car garage l have room to work on the finders and the cab body work.

 

Lowtrkn2k,
I have pix, but haven't broken the code to post them. Looks like john_1953 beat me to the punch.
No problem. It wasn't my invention to begin with.
Let me emphasize: if teh boom slips off the 2x, it will dimple the roof. Take some pains to guard the sheet metal or to confine the boom location to the center of the board.
Best of luck on your project.

 

Doesn't seem to let me edit my post. The last sentence should have read " I WOULDN"T do anything except remove the cab like this..."

I agree with 1stoldtruck, care should be taken to ensure the thing doesn't slip. Granted it is something like 600 pounds on a sharp edge, but when I put it back on, I'll have some sort of confinment for the boom location.

 

I was thinking about doing something simular but making a 'U' shape for the end of the boom to fit into it to hold it from slipping out. Maybe take two 2x4's attached to a wider board and make a 'U' brace to slip the boom into and run those accross the cab. I was even thinking about possibly turning the boom upside down in the lift and making something to be able to slip a bolt through the part that the chain is hooked to the boom and into the wood as a way to lock it on the end. It's kind of hard to explain my idea but these are just some thoughts. I'll have to get in my garage and really take a closer look.