What happens if you've added too much oil?
#1
What happens if you've added too much oil?
Well, I changed my oil and only added 14.5 quarts. I let the oil drain forever. The dipstick looked good as well. I went on a trip, about 500 miles roundtrip, and today, I check the dipstick and the oil level is about .5 inches above the "full" line. What gives? I was on an incline (front of the vehicle up ) when I checked the dipstick, so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. I didn't even put 15 quarts in! Any help would be great. Thanks.
#2
You may have been on an incline. When I change mine, I only add 14-Quarts which includes enough for the filter replacement. With the 14-Quarts, my dipstick shows at the top (Full) mark.
I do have limited experience as this is my first PSD (2-Months). I'm sure others will chime in soon with a better perspective.
I do have limited experience as this is my first PSD (2-Months). I'm sure others will chime in soon with a better perspective.
#3
If you have too much oil it can foam-up and make your truck run crappy.
Smell the oil for diesel odor, could be fuel getting into the oil.
Is the oil still clear, no greenish tint or frothing, could be coolant getting into the oil.
Some early 95 and older engines (I know, not yours, you never know) were equipped with a 12 quart dipstick. (If yours is stamped 1820068C1, REPLACE IT!, it reads 2 qts too low!!!)
Correct PN's
(Ford) F4TZ-6750-E (F-Series)
(Navistar) 1824405C1
Smell the oil for diesel odor, could be fuel getting into the oil.
Is the oil still clear, no greenish tint or frothing, could be coolant getting into the oil.
Some early 95 and older engines (I know, not yours, you never know) were equipped with a 12 quart dipstick. (If yours is stamped 1820068C1, REPLACE IT!, it reads 2 qts too low!!!)
Correct PN's
(Ford) F4TZ-6750-E (F-Series)
(Navistar) 1824405C1
Last edited by Cuda_jim; 10-08-2006 at 12:39 PM.
#4
If you are just dealing with overfilling with oil, then drain.. If it is too overfull your crankshaft and connecting rods will spin, slap the oil, and create air bubbles in the oil which will in turn reduce the lubercation of the oil because of the air pockets. If the oilpan is overfull just drain some out, untill it reads full one the dipstick.
#6
#7
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#10
in reality, no. when you change your oil, only 75-80% of it comes out. the rest is still stuck in the oil rails in the heads, the HPOP and LPOP oil pumps and lines/galleries, and about a quart is in the HPOP reservoir.
that is why the oil gets black so quickly after a change, because it all mixes in. the color usually has little to do with the amount of additives left in the oil.
that is why the oil gets black so quickly after a change, because it all mixes in. the color usually has little to do with the amount of additives left in the oil.
#11
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
in reality, no. when you change your oil, only 75-80% of it comes out. the rest is still stuck in the oil rails in the heads, the HPOP and LPOP oil pumps and lines/galleries, and about a quart is in the HPOP reservoir.
that is why the oil gets black so quickly after a change, because it all mixes in. the color usually has little to do with the amount of additives left in the oil.
that is why the oil gets black so quickly after a change, because it all mixes in. the color usually has little to do with the amount of additives left in the oil.
#12
#13
Originally Posted by PA_Ford_Man
Tenn,
I wasn't aware that the injection galley was dead end from the HPOP. You made a good point! How can we get that oil replaced with new if it is continually there and does not circulate?
I wasn't aware that the injection galley was dead end from the HPOP. You made a good point! How can we get that oil replaced with new if it is continually there and does not circulate?
Edit: here's my real burn with it, just think about that same oil in the galley year after year. Heat cycle after heat cycle, just going nowhere. Well, going nowhere if all is working right. Driving those overexpensive injectors time and again.........I think you get my point.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; 10-08-2006 at 09:34 PM.
#14
From the Manual:
During initial start or cold start, the high-pressure oil pump (6600) receives unfiltered oil from the left side valve lifter oil gallery through the anti-drain back check ball valve. Once the engine starts or during warm engine starts, the check ball closes and the high-pressure oil pump receives filtered oil from the high-pressure oil pump reservoir. The high-pressure oil pump pumps the oil under extremely high pressures (4,115-20,577 kPa [600-3,000 psi]) through the left and right side high-pressure supply hoses to the high-pressure oil rails (integral to the cylinder heads). Once in the oil rail, the oil is fed to the fuel injector bores through four oil feed galleries drilled and machined in the cylinder head. The high-pressure oil then actuates the fuel injectors.
After Firing the injectors the oil joins the low pressure system and drains back to the pan
During initial start or cold start, the high-pressure oil pump (6600) receives unfiltered oil from the left side valve lifter oil gallery through the anti-drain back check ball valve. Once the engine starts or during warm engine starts, the check ball closes and the high-pressure oil pump receives filtered oil from the high-pressure oil pump reservoir. The high-pressure oil pump pumps the oil under extremely high pressures (4,115-20,577 kPa [600-3,000 psi]) through the left and right side high-pressure supply hoses to the high-pressure oil rails (integral to the cylinder heads). Once in the oil rail, the oil is fed to the fuel injector bores through four oil feed galleries drilled and machined in the cylinder head. The high-pressure oil then actuates the fuel injectors.
After Firing the injectors the oil joins the low pressure system and drains back to the pan
#15
Man Alan, do you ever sleep? Just kidding. I've seen and heard that. Just how does that oil retun after firing the injector and maintain injector firing pressure? Skip the manual crap unless it illustrates this. Must be a very high pressure check/control valve that knows when the engine is no longer running and somehow replaces that old with fresh so that the truck would be ready to start the next time.
Not trying to be a Richard Head but I don't see it. Maybe I better look my DVD over again. I know what it says but the diagram does not illustrate it. Did I miss it?
Not trying to be a Richard Head but I don't see it. Maybe I better look my DVD over again. I know what it says but the diagram does not illustrate it. Did I miss it?