Super Duty & Heavy Duty1999 to current Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty with diesel V8 and gas V8 and V10 engines
Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.
You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!
I am sure this has been beaten to death but I was looking and could not find the proper info about proper spark plug torque for the 5.4 motor. What would be the proper torque for the plugs and is there a certain procedure to do this? Also was wondering what type of plug every one has been useing? I currently have a 2000 f-250,crew cab, 5.4 Triton motor, with 85000 miles on it and thought that a new set of plugs before winter would be a great idea. Also does anyone use either anti seize or thread locker on the plugs since there is only 4 threads that hold them in, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
As stated by our non sparkplugger friend ! That is the correct torque spec.
We use never sieze on the plugs ,we also change all boots when in there they can prevent misfires .Also we use dielectric grease on the end of the boot going over the plug ,then a little dielectric grease around the lip of the boot that seals to the head .This helps repell moisture and any water splash from getting down in the plug hole.
We also stick with the stock plugs ,because these engines seem to not like aftermarket brands.
__________________ " All levers like real trucks should be!" "Cool enough for me!" " BSEG CLUB"10 Strokin and 4 Smokin!
Thanks, Forty. You're right about that. I'm afraid too. Think I'll see if the O.E. plugs will go that 100,000 that Ford promised. Those buggers look awfully hard to get at in the back. And with all that delicate torque and few threads, I'll just wait awhile. Edit:::::::And you're also right about those boots that Dad wore.
'99 Superduty XL 5.4L V-8 Auto Trans 2WD Ext Cab Short Bed 4.10LS
when I was at the dealership for the last recall , i asked the mech doing it about the plugs backing out , he told me that the plug holes are tappered to allow a machine to load and torque the plugs at the factory and that when using a standerd socket that the socket may bind in the holes making it feel like the pkugs are torqued but in fact they aren't. he said they make aspecial plug socket for the 5.4 that is tappered to fit the hole to provide the proper torque.
I saw on another site that the spark plug companies themselves are recommending that a hole chaser be used to clean the threads of carbon before installing new plugs. They say that the newer oxygenated fuels make 5 times more carbon than the old fuels and this builds up on the threads. Then when you go to torque it you are only crunching it into the carbon so you dont have the real metal to metal torque you need and this also makes the plug overheat and next she blows.
I started out with nothing. I still have most of it left.
1975 F 250 with 5 speed
1995 460 in an RV
2003 V10 box van
1998 Ranger XLT 4.0
I would say that most people just do it by feel. I would say that finger tight plus a half turn would be good. Most spark plugs have crush washers that seat to the head, it is not really critical to have it torqued perfectly. Just dont strip the plug, make sure it threads in finger tight first. Also check the gaps yourself, and use Anti-seaze on the threads of the plug. This is a life saver for the next time you are changing the plugs.
I bought this special spark plug removal/install tool from Sears (www.sears.com) and it helped a lot ($37 + s/h + tax):
KD Tools 3 pc. 5/8 in. Extended Universal Spark Plug Socket Set + case
Sears item #00942274000
Mfr. model #KDS41740
3 piece 5/8 in. extended universal spark plug socket set. Unique design includes 5/8 in. spark plug socket, universal joint, and extension in one piece. Allows for ultimate access while staying securely attached to the drive tool. Includes 4, 6, and 11 in. lengths in a blow mold storage case.
Also, depending on the year of 5.4L you have. The newer ones have 3 valves per cylinder (24 valves total that create 300 hp) and require a different spark plug, which might require a different type/size of tool.
Also remember to not change spark plugs in a hot/warm engine. Several mechanics have told me to change spark plugs on an engine that sat overnight cooling down. The colder the better. Changing spark plugs in a hot or even warm engine will increase the chances of stripping out the threads - since the newer style heads are made of aluminum. Make sure to use your torque wrench (approx. 15 ft/lbs) when installing plugs.
Also, the newer style spark plug wires (if you can call it that) do have a boot with a spring inside and all connected to the coil pack. Usually these boots are very reusable and do not give any problems.
Thanks much to all that responded sure get a lot of great advice from all you ford nuts, nice to know if a person needs some advice they can get it without a bunch of crap. Just ordered the 3 piece swivel set from sears looks like a "must have tool" for my set!!!!
Boots - I wear a size 10,but my dad wore a size 11 that kicked my butt alot ,made me learn alot quicker back in the day!
I bet that's not all your pop used to dust that **** of yours, Rich...
__________________ Staring too long at your own navel leaves one only to stare at the difference in another’s. The reaction to that difference tells much about one’s inability to stare at own navel. - Krewat 2006
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.