How do you replace the rear axle seal in a 1995 F150? Thanks for your help!

 

Remove rear cover, drain fluid. Remove tire and brake drum. Remove bolt from pinion shaft and slide shaft out. Remove c-clip fon inner end of rear axle. Slide axle out of housing. Remove seal from end of axle tube. Clean debris from area. Replace seal. Reverse process.

 

I would have to guess that you have an 8.8 rear axle.
1. If so remove the back cover from the rear end. (just loosen the top bolts until it drains)
2. Remove lock bolt and pinion shaft.
3. Remove drums.
4. Remove "C" clips.
5. Pull out axles.
6. Pry out seals.
7. Drive in seals.
8. Reverse 5 - 1 above.

 

Thanks, That will help tremendously!!

 

I have a rear axle seal to replace on my 87 F150, was just wondering, should I replace both sides and should I look at replacing the wheel bearings too? (truck has 225,000 miles on it) Whaddya think??

 

I would replace both rear axle seals.
Check the up and down movement of the axles for play and if you find some movement I would check the axles for wear and if they have any replace them or put a sleeve on them.
I would also replace the bearings if I were in there.

 

I actually replaced both of mine because the one that I didn't think was bad was actually starting to leak a little. I also replaced the differiential seal. I figured I was already greasy and dirty and sick of being under the truck, I just wanted to get it all over with. As far as the bearing are concerned, if they look and feel good, in my opinion, there really isn't any reason to replace them. A new one can go bad just as fast as an old one can.

 

When you replace this one you need to replace the crush sleeve and nut.
Also unless you tighten the nut to 12 to 15 inch lbs (this takes about 350 LB torque) it will start leaking and making noise and if tighten more than this the pinion bearings will go out.

 

I think he may have been refering to the cover gasket.

 

Dont forget to put a little grease on the seal and the spot the axle rides on it,otherwise the dry rubber will wear out in a hurry
On the bearings if they feel good it cant hurt to gently pop open the bearing cover and use a thin feeler guage put a few little scoops of grease inside, I use to get 150K or more if I just kept the bearing lubed up

 

I changed the pinion seal in my '89 150 about 40K miles ago with the shop manual directions. No leaks and no noise. I didn't change anything except the seal...just torqued the pinion nut to 160 ft/lbs and re-checked the bearing preload, as per the manual.

I was under the impression that if you can't get the pinion bearing preload to match the number you got before taking the pinion nut off, THEN you need the new crush collar.

Pat

 

Yes that was the old way in Ford shop manuals around 1992 and before but they say it a little different in the 1995 Ford shop manuals. But in the 92 manuals they did say
From the 92 manual:
"A MINIMUM pinion nut tightening torque of 217 N-m (160 ft-lb) must be obtained during tightening".
This 160 ft-lb was drop in the 95 manual and it just says
From the 95 manual:
5. Tighten the pinion nut, rotating the pinion occasionally to make sure pinion bearing cone and roller assemblies seat properly. Take frequent torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.

6. If the original recorded preload is lower than specification (used bearings: .9-1.5 N-m [8-14 lb-in] new bearings: 1.8-3.3 N-m [16-29 lb-in]) tighten to specification. If the preload is higher than specification tighten to original reading as recorded in Step 3 of the removal procedure.

7. Under no circumstances should the pinion nut be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed. See 7 above.

He has a 95 so I was giving him the a very short outline on it from the 95 manual.

 

Moved to appropriate forum per our "Read First!" annoucement at the top of the 87-96 forum.

 

I think it's funny that everyone is discussing pinion seal installation, when the original poster 1) was clearly talking about about the outboard oil seals and the differential cover gasket and 2) has long since disappeared and is probably never going to read the rest of this thread.

 

That may be true, but you and I read all the way down here, didn't we?