No, that won't make a difference.

 

I have a similar problem with my '02 f250. The OD button seems stuck, I think the switch is bad, there is no travel in the button. The OD is working but I cannot disengage it. I have studied it and can't see how it comes apart. Do I need to remove the shifter or does the end come apart to replace the switch?

 

EDIT: My bad,,, I thought I was posting to a different thread (cruise control dead)
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Hey fellas,

Just curious if you guys have found the same when using cruise control.

- Set cruise while driving (I think 30mph is minimum?)...
- Shift into neutral with cruise control still engaged...

QUESTION:
Does your cruise control disengage? or does it stay engaged with the RPMs running higher?

Just curious since mine actually stays engaged until I hit the break pedal or manually turn it off using the botton.

I would have thought shifting into neutral would disengage it.

Rick...

 

That didn't happen until the cruise became part of the drive by wire. Your trcuk has a stand alone cruise that doesn't have an input to know that it's in neutral.

 

Thanks for the heads up Mark.

It's good to know it's the norm for it to run that way. I was thinking maybe it was one the mods, upgrades or addons installed on the Truck that was causing it to act like that.

Rick...

 

But I have a 1999 E150 Conversion Van.

Must be the same shifter.......I betcha !!!!!

Replaced a switch, didn't light up, so I emailed the guy on ebay that sold it to me, and he gave me the link to you !!

I guess I should get a shift lever.

COOL.

 

I just took the steering column off again to replace the multi function switch, 1st time was the outer shaft to shifter itself was cracked (they sold me the right part) take off the 4 bolts holding shaft then2 screws to the end of shaft to cable when column is apart then gently remove cable 2 shift indicator there should be a wire 2 d column leading 2 overdrive switch.....Like they said replace the handle....Note: Always disconnect battery b4 working on this thing!!!!

 

Hi, followed the procedure to replace the gear lever handle on my e150 cheatau - the symptoms are as described in this thread: OD light does not work, switch does not work.
The replacement took a while as the pin holding the handle was hard to drive out.

Still in the end- no success. What's the next step? Transmission control module???

 

There is no transmission control module, so that probably isn't your problem.

I'd start with measuring the continuity of the wiring from the connector that the shifter handle connects to, all the way to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM.) There is probably an open circuit in the wiring somewhere.

 

I just got done changing mine on my 5.4l 2000 f250, the end near the button has been broken and I taped it with electrical tape for the last 20,000 miles. There is a metal collar right below the end assembly that ended up rubbing throught the wires and causing a short that would make the door chime, or some chiming sound trigger constantly when applying the brake, and I would completely loose the gauge cluster. No problem until i hit the button then boom, it would smioke the fuse.
Now I just picked up the whole new assembly from ford and changed it out. And It works perfect, more than perfect as I think this was causing a short or some kind of failsafe mode for the trans, cause the trans shifts perfect now, and the truck feels better then it ever has. I used to also have a loud knocking noise during startup cold or not, and would magnify when put in reverse. It completely vanished.
I purchased it used for a work truck 5 years ago with 64,000 miles, and now have 175,000 miles, og trans, og motor, couldnt ask for a better work truck.
What I'm getting at is change it no matter what the circumstances are. my change reeked massive benefit. 175,000 miles trans still feels brand new. I have it completely serviced every 30,000 miles. Thank god cause I thought for sure that knocking was from the valve train but i have a 2V with no phasers. The knock must have been trans related cause of the short in lever. torque converter ? Any 2 cents or similar problems?

 

Thanks mark - the fuse was blown - looks like the defect cables in the gear lever caused a short. Thanks - all works now. It´s was fuse no. 20, 5A.

 

Thats how mine started, If your lever was broken like mine, you would see the metal collar, this is what rubs throught the wires.
good chance soon in the future it will blow the fuse again, and you will be carrying a box full of fuses with you until you change the gear selector assembly. That is if the short is in the selector. Best Christmas present this year hands down. I dont know any other kid who would like a little box with a bow on it, open it up and see a shift lever, but I did backflips ran out to the garage and changed it out in minutes. Still kinda curious about how it was affecting the performance of the trans?

 

oops need to read more, just noticed you did replace it

 

@ ol'yeller
Sweet instruction on the swap out I just got my new (to me) 01 f-350 4x4 super duty dually 7.3 diesel a couple days ago and the overdrive button does not work. It looks like someone tried to fix it because the button doe not stay in the shifter to well.
I will do the swap out like y’all said. (That’s why I normally buy standard shift like my 97 HD lol)

 

I bought a 1997 Ford e350 Club Wagon Triton v10, and I noticed that the overdrive button wasn't working. After inspecting it and removing the doghouse, I noticed that an electrical cable had been deliberately cut. I don't know if this cable led to the transmission overdrive. Can someone help me out?