Vern, I agree with 'fenders about the master cylinder. Cheap and easy to replace. One of our company vehicles recently suffered a mc leaking internally [nothing external] and an employees 94 Tbird had the exact same problem the next week. He also was told the mc was probably not the problem, it was indeed. Just remember, if you buy a new mc and it does not fix the problem, 'fenders told you first. Joe

 

Vern,

Do not call the EX for help! That is just asking for troubles!!! I see no reason why the mighty vac would not give you a good bleed. Usually what I do when I can't find help (typically late at night when kids and wife are asleep) is I will fill the MC, leave the lid off, and, starting at the right rear I will crack the bleeder and let gravity do its magic. If the system is completely empty I will crack both of the rears. Sometimes it take a bit for the fluid to work it way through but it will get there (leaves you time for a frosty beverage) After you get fluid flowing in the rears, move to the fronts and repeat the process.
Occasionally I have had to slowing step on teh pedal and just as slowly release it to get the fluid moving.
This will usually do the trick. On my 49 I double checked it a couple of days later when my son was around to pump the pedal for me.

When you routed your brake lines did you have to make any goofy kind of bends or connections that could be an air trap? If so you might have to do the bleeding for that section at a connection near that trap and again at the bleader at the wheel.

Bobby

 

Vern

I wish you lived closer to Bobby and I. We could bleed your brakes and argue about stuff while you watch and drink beer.

Seriously though, I'd get somebody that knows a bit about brakes to help you bleed them. It's just easier to diagnose when you got one guy inside the truck pumping and somebody else sticking his head in the wheelwells, observing if things like brake calipers are moving around as they should. If you put it up on stands, you can do things like spin the wheel and see if they stop when you lightly apply the brakes. Stuff a Mity-Vac just can't accomplish.

 

I bled my brake system by myself and all I had was one of those cheap one man brake bleeding kits but this was just the frame so I could see the fluid coming out of the calipers and wheel cylinders. It did take a bit to get the proportioning valve to reset though. My test was to push the frame out of the garage and then hit the pedal (note: this was on level ground). Stopped instantly but this was all Ford parts.

 

Hold on Vern, let's not go overboard!!!

I've never had much luck with the mighty vac alone. I've had much better luck just (doing it by myself) with a tube into a jar of brake fluid. (In fact I use the Mighty Vac jar, with the pump disconnected) The 'Vac seems to suck in air around the bleeder screws.

 

Okay, you guys talked me into it. I'm not gonna ask the ex for help (that would have been a last resort anyway) but I am getting a rebuilt MC this afternoon. I guess it's possible that in the process of sitting this MC developed a massive internal leak which would give me the symptoms I have. The rebuilt MC was only $15.99. I've paid more for wheel cylinders than that. If I had known they were that cheap I would have bought a new one to start with. It wasn't worth that to clean the old one up. Sometimes I'm too cheap for my own good...

Even it it isn't the MC, I figure what's a measly $15.99 in the scheme of things? I thought the MC would be closer to $50-$60. And, this time I'll try the gravity route on bleeding.

 

Vern,

Whew! that was a close one. If you would have called the ex we would have had to start the proceedings to kick you out of the he-man woman haters club (and believe me, thats a shame that no man want to carry).

Here's some words from a fellow tightwad....You can never be too cheap.

When you get the new MC, they typically come with 2 short clear pieces of tubing to help you bench bleed the MC. Clamp it in a vice, attach the short tubes, fill it up, then work the action with an extension or a screwdriver or something similar. Once the bubbles are gone bolt the danged thing to the truck.

Now, here is where I cheat a bit. Once I get it installed I fill the MC back up and slowly step on the pedal and release it. Check for bubbles in the MC. Repeat the process several times until you get no more bubbles.

fatfenders, it would be fun to give Vern a hand in person, argue about how to do things, **** and moan, tell stories and lies while bleeding brakes and sippin' cold ones

Bobby

 

It would be fun watching you guys work on my truck arguing, pissing and moaning, and telling stories while I sipped a frosty beverage.

 

All work and no play makes for grumpy truck buddies

 

I yanked the MC this morning and decided to disassemble it since it was going to be turned in for a core anyway. Everything looked pretty good inside. There were no scores in the cylinder walls and it was very clean. The only thing I noticed which may or may not have been a problem was that the rubber cup for the rear brakes seemed a little flatter than it should be which might allow fluid to go past under heavy pressure. With such close tolerances I know I probably could not tell if one of those cups was bad just by visual inspection but there were no obvious deterioration or tears in them. I'm hopeful that that rearmost cup might have been the problem...

 

Hard to say by looking Vern. You have discovered the reason why a rebuilt MC is only about twenty bucks. You get degreased, a hone job and a seal or two. If there is anything else wrong they melt it down and make a $80 barbeque grill out of it, or something similar.

 

A barbeque grill is too good for this one...

 

Okay, yesterday I really drove it. It doesn't have a state inspection yet but it is registered so I took to the street for a 3 mile test run. Nothing fell off and everything worked okay. I had someone follow me just to be sure. The brake problem I was having last year has mysteriously cleared up. I have no explanation for that. But, the brakes are working great. Maybe they were fixed by elves during the winter or maybe that silicone brake fluid finally found it's way into all the proper places. I was worried about the shift points with the tall 2:26 rear gear but the transmission shifted perfectly and it was in high gear before 35 miles a hour. I still need to do some tweeking on the torsion bar height adjustment (raise it some) and I was getting spark knock on acceleration so I probably need to adjust the timing some too. Next is the state inspection and then to the alignment shop. Woohoo! It's finally a driver!

 

Oh what a feeling! Congratulations Vern! Today is going to be a beautiful day in both Maine and New Hampshire. You have great cruising roads up your way. I think that you need to check them out today.

 

Congratulations, Vern!!!!!

That brake thing clearing up is wierd.

I know you are eager to start other projects. Running for parts will be a whole new experience, now. You can hope you forget something so you have to do another trip.