I need to remove the injectors on my 1994 F250 7.3 for testing /replacement. I am not planning to remove the IP nw so what is the best way to get the lines out of the way so I can remove them ? What socket do I use to the injectors them out ? I will buy the o-ring and line kits . Anything else I should look for or do on this injector R&R pocedure ? - Thanks
Last edited by petepetersen; 09-18-2006 at 08:13 AM.
Injectors are easy, remove the line cap nuts, gently move the line away sufficient to remove the return lines/caps as a set per side, then using a 1" socket "DO NOT BEND STEEL LINES" unscrew the injector(s). Remove the copper seal if left in the base of the bore.
If major amounts of carbon are found or difficulty in removal of inj or gp place the cylinder at TDC. Clean the inj bore but do not dump carbon into the cylinders, remove the GPs and use a vacuum to clean/suck debris out through either hole.
Send injectors out for pressure testing at a local shop or just buy new ones, also get a return line kit which consists of hose, clamps, orings, copper seals and new injector caps from one of several advertisers here.
Installation is reverse, "DO NOT DAMAGE THE NOZZLE TIPS" you can put the "new kit orings" on the injectors but they come with some on already. To replace useing vaseline or??, roll the first oring into first groove, roll second over it to lower groove trying not to cut them. Put the new copper seal on injector tip, I hold it in place with antisieze, antisieze the body slightly and do the threads, torque to 35lbs, book says twice?. Install the new caps and line "sets" made up "by you" identical to removed sets, use more vaseline inside caps, press down on cap (tops) until they seat into place. Connect the line caps torque is 22 ftlbs.
Now would of course be a good time to replace the IP too as your 75% there.
If you do not replace the IP starting should be no problem as fuel is at the end of the lines already and several cranks will fill injectors.
thats right pete, the nut that holds the liine to the top of the injector and VERY CAREFULLY MOVE THE LINE ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE INJECTOR. DONT PUT A KINK IN THE STEEL LINE.
one of the lines has an adapter on it, you will need two wrenches to remove the steel line .. one to hold the adapter and one to loosen the line nut and VERY CAREFULLY MOVE THE LINE TO ONE SIDE ENOUGH TO PUT A SOCKET ON THE INJECTOR TO LOOSEN IT.
once the injector is loosened, use shop air to blow beside the injector body to remove any debris from the port. There is also a copper crush washer that should come out with the injector, if it doesnt come out use a pick to remove it.
to reinstall the copper crush washer, I use some antiseize to hold it in place til installed. Also slight antiseize on injector threads wont hurt.
Be careful installing the new injector into the bore, there is small needle extension on the injector tip that you dont want to break or bend.
Its relatively easy, just pay attention to what you are doing.
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2000 super duty f-350 crew cab with training wheels, ats flip chip controller - hang on to it ! I did the air intake too - best thing since sliced bread.
You may want to remove the two clamps that hold the lines togeather on each set of lines to help with access to the injectors. Gives you a bit more flexability in the lines. DON't forget to put them back on when done. Cheers
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Kevin L.
93 F350 7.3 IDI 4x4, E40D with Multi Disc TC, Ram air, Stans Headers, 3" to Y- 4" exhaust,3.55, B&M shift plus, Pyro, Fuel opened 1-1/2 flats- Happy with power increase!
48 F-68 Stock- in restoration
How about removing a half of an injector that stuck in the head? I'm at a loss with that, because half of one of my injectors did that, i need to change it to get rid of the miss in it.
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