Hi,
I need to change the water valve on my 95 shorty.In order to get the hose clamps off the water valve[on upside down]I need to get the heater hoses off the heater core.My service manual says use Heater Hose Disconnect Tool #T85T-18539-AH.I don't have one.Is there a way to remove these hoses using common hand tools?
Thank you in advance for any advice.

 

The location of these clamps makes it difficult to easily remove them. You need to push the clamp foreward while pulling the collar back. Some guys with small hands have claimed to do this by hand. Once the clamps are removed I have been told that a new o-ring should be used in the old clamp. You can get the tool from local auto stores or from online auto suppliers like Whitney etc.

 

After you remove them, cut the connectors off and use hose clamps.

 

don't expect the Ford special tool to be a miracle tool on these fittings....corrosion, goop, crud binds the fittings....age destroys the plastic....things break
Ford special heater hose connections

 

Also, most after market heater core ports are not perfectly round, which makes attaching the hose connector a pain in the behind. Even if you grease inside the fitting, they are very difficult to attach.

 

All the suggestions I've come across regarding this advise to just cut off those silly plastic quick-connect ends and re-connect with regular hose clamps. You can save yourself a lot of grief by choosing this route from the begining. When you do, the easiest way to release those clips is by jamming a flat bladed screwdriver into one of the slots on the side of the coupling, and breaking it apart. This will allow the little white plastic clips to be easily removed, and then you can easily pull the couplers off the core nipples.

You might need to splice in some more hose sections to get the chopped heater hoses to reach the core nipples again. The easiest way to tighten the hose clamps onto the hoses around the core nipples is to use a ratcheting box end wrench. Otherwise, tightening those clamp screws will be frustratingly tedious.

 

I've used aftermarket quick release tools as well as the genuine McCoy, the Ford tool, and none of them work as well as you would expect. As alluded to above, grime, grit and crude make the couplings difficult to separate. They don't just "pop" apart despite what the manuals lead you to think. They will come apart but it takes some fiddling around to get the hang of doing it with the tool. They do however, snap back together very easily. Ford dealers sell replacement kits (around $6.00) but make sure you know which size tubing connectors you are working with.

 

I could never find the tool and finally gave up, cut them off and used clamps to reinstall, but it did take a stubby screwdriver and some contortion to get the clamps tight again.

 

3/8" drive sockets, extensions and u joints work well also

 

""but make sure you know which size tubing connectors you are working with""

What are the different sizes? I guess I have to have the old core out to determine the size before I buy the new O ring kit? Sure would be nice to have all the parts bought to get the job done in one step.

 

In order not to damage the heater core in my case, I used a hack saw blade heated red hot by a propane torch to cut the plastic quick connect part. takes about 30 sconds and does not stress the metal tube. hose clamps are now doing the job well.

ken

 

There are two sizes, a 3/4 inch for both heater core connections and a 5/8 inch on the ends that connect to the engine side. Ford dealers sell a little package with the plastic clip, spacers and o-rings. However, when they do a part look up, the 5/8 inch size comes up first. The first time around, I had to go back to get the correct size I needed. Also, it would be a good idea to purchase a spare connector set (3 sets total) as it is easy to foul up and break one. Last tip: You place everything (o-rings, spacers and plastic bale) inside the connector housing, lubricate it with oil or WD-40, THEN line up the hose with the core fitting and slide it on. (No tools needed) There should be an audible 'click' when it seats. Do the bottom first for obvious reasons.

Lastly, this is your blood sacrifice to join the brotherhood of the Order Of The Aerostar! If this makes no sense now, it will shortly.

 

duplicate post...sorry

 

Aerocolorado...thanks for the reply. I was just at the parts store,looking at the replacement core, and I noticed the core has 2 different sizes of tubes. I guess I need one package of each size then.

I may go the "cheapskate route", and just cut off the funky connectors and use hose clamps. I'm not planning on keeping the Aero* long enough to have to do this job again...I hope!

And, AeroColorado, I did check out your very in-depth explanation of how to do this swap-out....very informative. Thanks for taking the time to do it!

 

replace with hose clamps only

will really appreciate the hose clamps if hose fails 30 miles up logging road or on trip far from home and a stocking Ford parts dealer that has inventory

we love our AeroC, he's our top blood donor...has transfused an EXT all from his knuckles and fingers