Alright guys, a long story but here it goes. I ordered a F5 chip from Jody at DP Tuner for my 2001 F-250 PSD. I got the stock, 40hp tow, 80hp econ, and 120hp race. I recieved it this afternoon and went to install it. After following Jody's directions word by word and going back to check everything, it still does not work. The switch won't even register, light up, or change a tune for me. I left everything in until I can get up with Jody tomorrow. The truck also drives different now, shifts at different times w/ overall less power. I'm wondering if my PCM is bad or something. I bought the truck used, and noticed someone had drilled a hole in the black bracket that holds it - maybe for a chip of some sort. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be? Maybe something simple? I'm sure Jody will get it right, but it would be alot of fun if I could get it right tonight. Thanks

 

Did you have to remove the stock silicone over the PCM connections or was it already gone? In other words, was there a load of covering on the pins that you connect the chip to?

 

the silicone was mainly gone. I did clean it up a bit anyway though. I'm pretty sure my truck has been chiped before - there is a hole in the dashboard by the steering column probably from a flip chip.

 

I wonder if the previous owner scraped too deep into the contacts. I read somewhere that the chip will not seat properly if that happens. I would try reseating it once or twice, it may just not have good contact.

 

I tried doing that several times, but got nothing. Another thing I was thinking is that maybe my PCM won't take the tune. I've been able to tune the truck with superchip, but not a diablo. Any other thoughts?

 

Tuning and chipping are two different things. Please elaborate on how you do this, and how it works.

 

This is a definite possibility. If all the solder was removed from the PCM board, and it's down to the bare copper, the chip may not be making good contact with the board. Believe it or not, the chip actually makes better contact when there is a small layer of solder on the pins. If it's down to the bare copper, the pins need to be "retinned" with some solder. Don't ask how I know this.

On the other hand, it could just be a defective chip. I haven't heard of any problems with Jody's new F5 chips, but that doesn't mean that one may have a problem. Unfortunately, I don't think it'll be figured out tonight. Jody will be your best bet in the morning.

 

Oh, but I can imagine!

 

And, I'd say that you are thinking correctly, Dan.

 

Called DP this morning. Jody is out of town, but I talked with his wife. She is pretty knowldegable on the subject and I think we have it figured out. I think the connection from the ribbon cable to the chip is not connected strong enough/properly, hence why it will not come on. Since the chip is connected I'm driving on the stock program Jody burned to my truck (TPM1, whereas I had a TPM2 before - that accounts for why its driving different.) She said they had one other guy with the same problem and this was his solution. I'm gonna get to it after work tonight. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks so much for all the help.

 

alright guys, I tried checking the cable connection to the chip, and still nothing. I redid the install again w/ a buddy of mine that installed one on his truck and still nothing. The contacts have been cleaned, no silicion, no copper showing. DP tuner is closed on Friday, so looks like I have to wait until Mon. when I can get up with Jody. I'm thinking maybe the ribbon cable is bad or the switch is defective? Anybody else have any ideas - I feel like a kid at CHRISTmas that can't open my present.

And I was really looking foward to rollin some smoke on the dutymaxes in town this weekend.

 

I'd go ahead and leave a message for Jody. They may be checking their messages. And if you're having trouble, you may get a call back.

 

Hunter, I have ribbon cable and 9-pin connectors that I use for work. Usually, I use a cable tester to determine and bad crimp,connector or ribbon. But, if you have a meter that you can use to test continuity with and two paper clips you can do it yourself. Typically, the ribbon is not the cause unless it has been crimped. The connector is a whole-nother story, sometimes when the connector is crimped on the catch pins on the connector do not line up properly with the wires on the ribbon. The connectors can be removed if your careful not to break the retainer clips on the connectors. I wish you lived closer, I could mail you a replacement but it may not get there before Jody gets you a new one.
Of course, it could be the switch like you said which makes this a moot-point. At least tone the cable out for continuity at least then you will know wheather its bad or not. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for all the help fellas, it is most appreciated. I did go ahead and leave Jody a message and sent him an e-mail, hopefully I will get a call back.

 

I have the same problem and sent mine back to Jody for checkup as I thought I fried it working on my fuse panel. He looked at it and it was OK, he also reflashed it to make sure. I am now back in Iraq so I won't be able to try it again till DEC. I scrubbed my board till the copper was starting to show on some of the contacts so I stopped. I will pull it again and get a closer look at it when we are reunited. I am also curious about not having enough contact with the solder being worn down. I used acetone and the scotchbrite pad then just a rag soaked with acetone and scrubbed like crazy. When I have it installed and turn on the key I do not get the Wait To Start light on the dash and it will not turn over so anxious to hear of the outcome for your truck. I can't wait to feel the performance when I get it figured out.