1987 F-150, 2WD, 300 I-6, C-6, 180,000 miles

I replaced the original rear brake line with a stainless steel line. Bled all corners after flushing out most of the brake fluid.

During my first drive down the road the brakes were working great. Then after several miles of driving my abs light came on. I had to brake for a red light and noticed my truck was not stopping like normal. It feels like my rear brakes are not working, just the front brakes.

If I turn off the truck, then restart the abs light goes out. The brakes work fine, until the abs light decides to come on. Then the rear brakes don't seem to work.

One time the rear brakes must have stayed locked up while I was driving, because the drums were smoking and my back rims were extremely hot. After cooling down the brakes worked fine, until the stupid ABS light came on again. Then I have little to no rear brakes.

I am going to bleed the rear brakes again today.

What do you think my problem is? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

I bled all four corners today, then went for a 20 minute drive. The brakes felt great. No ABS light. Then at the last stop light prior to my house, the ABS light came on! When the ABS light comes on the e-brake light also comes on. Why the the e-brake light come on at the same time???

What should I do next?

 

when the red brake light comes on that is because there is a pressure difference between the front and rear brakes which is somehow realted to your problem a leak maybe? bad master cylinder?

 

How did the brake fluid look coming out? Very nasty is my guess.

The problem is probably in the rear ABS valve. If the fluid was as bad as I think, then the valve is probably gummed up internally and it's not letting the shoes retract properly after you take your foot off the brake. You will either need a new valve ($200 or so from Ford, and no junkyard should sell used brake parts) or just bypass it with a piece of brakeline. I would go the latter route. The early ABS sucked and is right next to useless.

Bypass the valve, pull the fuse for the ABS computer, and remove the light from the dash. All fixed!

The e-brake light is probably due to a weak return spring on the e-brake pedal.

 

The brake fluid was dark brown. Not thick or goey. It just looked old. After lots of bleeding the fluid is now clear like it should be.

I tried disconnecting the electric connector from the master cylinder. The connector was slighty dirty, so I cleaned it with Electronic cleaner and a small wire brush. Then I applied some dielectric grease and installed the connector. Something was not right so I pulled the connector again and noticed the plastic retainers that hold the wires in the connector are broken. Now I need to get a new/used connector. Where should I/can I get a new/used connector? Junk yards are obvious. Is it possible to buy a new one? Owning an older vehicle with old plastic connectors sucks. Everything on my truck is old and brittle.

Now my anti-lock light is on ALL the time! Woohoo!

Where is the rear abs deal located? I looked and it appears the rear brake lines run down the drivers side framerail to the front.

When I find it, do I remove the unit and replace it with new brake line? Will I need a porportioning valve?

Thanks for any help.

 

The RABS valve is mounted to the inside of the left side frame rail about under the drivers seat. You will see the pipe running down to it from the master cylinder. Another pipe runs from it along the frame rail to the rear brakes. You could just disconnect the two pipes and make up a short length of pipe to join the two together. I would agree that the valve assy. is probably faulty. A reman. unit costs around $120.00 plus core.

 

I agree with andym about Ford's RABS setup. It's worse than not having it. I usually pull the fuse and the light and go on down the road. Even did it to my 2000 F250 after it scared me silly on a panic stop. I don't like RABS.

 

Alright, I know where the assembly is located.

Will NAPA carry a replacement brake line? What exactly should I get (specific description would help)? I have seen universal brake lines, but I haven't seen any with fittings attached.

Any ideas for a new connector to the master cylinder?

Thanks for your help guys!

 

There is also a bleeder on the RABS valve. Did you bleed it? I had the same problem as you on my 88. I ended up buying a new RABS controller module (expensive) and no problem since. It is under the dash and a bit of a pain to get out.

 

if you have a tubing bender you can buy straight sections of brake line and bend them in whatever shape you need. they already have fittings on the ends

 

The bending is the easy part. You can bend brake lines with your hands. The hard part is getting the proper fittings on the end. Napa should rent a flaring kit to properly form the ends, the fittings themselves, and the couplers to tie it all together.

The first sign of rear ABS problems on these trucks, and out the valve goes. It just doesn't work well enough to justify the expense in keeping it.

 

Thanks guys.

No I have not tried bleeding the unit. I will try bleeding the unit first. Then if the light is still on I will bypass it.

 

Do you have state inspections where you are at? Here in VA they check the ABS light when you turn on the key to see if it comes on before you start it.

 

Here in CA. there is a vehicle inspection and SMOG testing. I will dissable the light so they won't see it.

 

Not to get off the subject, but who makes a GOOD double flairing tool? I've bought about eight kits and when trying to put the double flair in all it does is push the tube down.Ijust blew the rear line in my 93.At least with the bed off it shouldn't be too tough.I don't like buying universal brake lines and making roller coasters out of them to wind up the right size.