Ok so first off THANK YOU for the link to the writup on how to replace the turbo. As I was following the proceedure I got to the point where I had taken off the large orange hose. I reached in and spun the turbine. I was surprised at how smooth and fluid it was. I was expecting it to be frozen. I stopped any further removal proceedure. So now I am at an impasse.

Here is the reason I thought it was the turbo. When I first turn on the truck it idles perfectly normally. I then leave my house and it is running just fine sub 30mph. When I enter the highway and give it full throttle it bogs down and feels like it is going to stall. Huge plumes of white smoke pour out of my exhaust pipe (kinda fun ) If I feather the throttle back a bit I can accelerate up to 75 or so no problem but if at any time I give it more than say 50% throttle it bogs down something fierce and about dies.

I never hear the turbo whine at all. So I came to the conclusion it was the turbo. I bought one and was about to install it and I see the original one turns very smooth and has no bent or dented blades at all. I tried pushing on the turbine to see if there was any play and felt none.

Any ideas? Must be some valve somewhere isnt opening or something.

TIA

 

Oh the accelleration is much better when it warms up but will still gag when given full throttle. HTH

 

ttt - Sorry I never do this on forums. I just been waiting all day and I have 0 clue what it could be. I hate to take it to the dealer where the labor isnt so bad but they charge $400 for a bolt...

 

does the exhuast sound any differnt then normal it could be that the exhasut backpressure valve is stuck closed or partially closed. the valve is on the turbo right before the down pipe. its like a butterfly valve that supposed to aid in warm up but it really doesn't from my experience. sometime they get sooted up and stick.

 

Yes it has a noticible exhaust sound when it warms up. It quiets down. The valve you mention on the surface is very rusty. Maybe it is stuck closed?

Ill go have a look now. Thanks!

 

Big clouds of smoke like that tell me the injector o-rings are shot and you are losing HPOP pressure.

 

Ok I just went out and took off the downpipe. I fiddled with the valve and it does move easily. I took it for a drive. The main problem is when the rpm's go over 2300. After that there is a huge power loss and lots of smoke. I see when it stays under 2300 the acelleration is fine. No issues. I also watched the turbo spin and that is working just fine. Back to the drawingboard.

I did find a non-dealer diesel mechanic and will be dropping it off tomorrow.

 

Is that a huge problem or is it something I can fix?

 

injector o-rings aren't too bad to do if you have basic metric hand tools and a write up from somebody around here. basically pull valve covers. some pull both rear injectors first and then suck the oil and fuel out of the cylinder. i prefer to pull the gallery plugs on top of the head and suck the oil out first then pull the injector out and stick a rag in the hole real quick so soak up the oil/fuel that remains. then pull the rest of the injectors out (keeping them in the right order). and turn the motor over by hand first to blow the liquid out. then crank it with the starter. then reinstall the injectors. once the injectors are in and bolted down i again turn the engine over by hand about 8 to 10 times to make sure its not hydrolocked. if all is good then button it up and fill the high pressure oil pump reservior with oil and start cranking 30 seconds at a time with a couple minute wait in between and it will fire up after a couple good cranks.

if somebody has a good write up handy post it as i can't be more detailed right now. boss is on vacation so i need to run the shop and try to get a few vehicles worked on.

 

beans and swamps sites have excellent write ups.

 

I found an Indy diesel mechanic next door to where my wife works. They said they are more than competant with the fuel system, they cannot fix the manifold leak though.

I can buy a manifold anywhere for ~$120. I asked the dealer how much for same manifold $480. Umm... They wont install a part I bring to them however the difference in price I could pay for 4.5 hours of the indy mechanic.

Once they(the indy) give me the real issue Ill post it for future reference. I did a search for this before but found no real answer that is why I posted.

 

Just curious, What's wrong with the intake?

 

Its the exhaust manifold on the right side. Has a wicket "tap tap" noise as the air leaves it. Guess its common issue I can find alot of right side manifolds out there not too many left.