HELP! I have searched this forum throughout the years....now I need to ask for some direct help.


IN A NUT SHELL:
97 F350 7.3L Turbo
I filled up with fuel on my way and home noticed a brake leak
Went on vacation with another car
fixed the brake problem about a week later
drove about 1/4 mile and the truck started to idle like butt with knock on upper half of engine.
drove home and changed the fuel filter....it smelled like diesel-gas-kerosene mix.
I drained a tank and fuel filter resevoir and replaced with with diesel.
it seemed to run better for a few minutes so i turned it off.
Now the truck wont start
it seems to be starved for fuel...there is absoutly ZERO smoke coming from the exhaust. I smelled the exhaust and I can smell some weired smell That I can not describe...almost of a ionized burning smell (if it is relevant)
I pulled these codes:
P1316 Injector Curcuit/IDM codes detected
P1395 Glowplug moniter fault Bank no. 1
P1396 Glowplug moniter fault Bank no. 2
I cleared the codes and got NO codes while cranking, could these be old codes that I cleared?
PLEASE HELP!

 

ALSO, I cracked what I thought were fuel lines...that go into the valve covers on the left and right and on the 2 middle cylinders NOT the one on the end....PLEASE TELL ME THOSE ARE OIL LINES :-(

 

Well I'll try to help ya out, the burning smell makes me thing you may have burnt a wiring harness, unplug your valve cover connectors, thier are 4 in total, 2 on each side and look for burnt plastic, hell, even smell them, then unplug your engine harness connector, on mine located under air intake plumbing and close to your underhood fuse box if I recall, then check your harness going into yourinjector modual, located driver side inner fender toward fire wall, its silver in color. If all wiring checks out fine then check out your wiring under your valve covers by removing them and doing a visual inspection or if you have an ohm meter thiers a way you can ohm out injectors and glow plugs with wiring harness to check condition.

I hope someone can check in about which pins were the glow plugs and injectorsn on the valve cover gasket.

as for cracking liines on the cylinder head in the middle of the engine, if thier steel braided lines toward the front, those are oil lines coming from your HPOP located infront of your fuel bowl, that will be engine oil out of those lines.

 

i agree. the pcm shuts down a whole bank (side of the engine) if you got a burnt wire to an injector. sounds like you may have one on each side. start out by looking at the outer plugs to vc 4 of em. if all looks well dig a little deeper. pull the vc and inspect the uvc to gasket plug and and uvc itself and also uvc to injector. hopefully you dont have any burnt solenoids.

another way is to do a buzz test. that will let you know if your burnt. not hard and the parts are cheap from powerstrokeshop.com. if the external plugs are burnt that plug into the vc gaskets let me know i will give you the part number to the repair kit to buy from ih.

 

This is great guys!...thank you for gettting me on the right track. I will check this stuff out after work and let you know...
Thanks Again!

 

Sorry I have a few more questions:
Will 1 of the 4 under vavle cover harnests make the whole truck stop running? or am I checking the the main external harnest first because its easier?
Also can I buy a kit with harnests, gaskets and everything I need to replace the UVC harnest?
If I have it open and looking at it but still dont see a problem should I replace it anyway? finally are they like brakes or heads....If I change 1 side should I change the other?
Sorry I ask so many questions I just want to make sure I am doing it right.
Thanks!

 

Like you said, 1 plug will not make the whole truck not run, your just checking out the harnesses at the valve cover to make sure everything thier is fine, the places where I could see that would kill the whole truck would be in the main connector harness under the air box intake and at the injector controle modual.

What I've done and you may need 2 people for this, I unplugged the wire harness from the valve covers and unplugged the main harness at the injector controle modual, took and ohm meter and tested the pins. I'm not 100% sure on this but the pins to test on the valve cover sockets are as fallows:

I 1 I 2 I 3 I 4 I 5 I

The middle wire #3 is common for the bank on the cylinder head, you want to test #1 and #3, then #3 and #5, thier you just tested the wiring harness and injector(both of them) when probing it on the valve cover gasket. If I recall, you cannot go over 3ohms for this. do this on each valve cover connector which is 4 in total.

On the engine wire harness, pull the connector on the controle modual, the silver box at the firewall and drivers inner fender, stick your leads from your ohm meter on wire #1 and start checking for continunity at the plug on your controle modual, I tested every pin for this and for any shorts to another wire incase something rubbed through then move onto #5 wire on your plug, do this again and then move onto then next valve cover connection and repeat these steps. Should have no resistance in the wiring.

Another way(appologize for the many ways) and you can do this if your testing this by yourself, just unplug the harness from the controle modual like mentioned and follow your wire color codes from the plug on the valve cover by pulling the wire wrap back a little, you want to check the color of your common wire #3, if I recall one of them is beige in color, then what ever color of the wire is on the #1 pin locate that color of wire on the backside of the ICM connector and flip over, test that pin by jumping the#3 and #1 pin that you located on the ICM plug. with that you just tested your intire engine harness, valve cover pass through conector, UVC harness and injector in one shot. I'll mention, all I did is locate the #3 on the ICM plug and the tested every other pin, you should only have one pin that will read 3 ohms, the other wires should show no readings or you have a shorted circuit.

If all your wiring checks out fine, it maybe possible that you shorted out your injector controle modual, hopefully by not spilling brake fluid on it and shorting it out.

I hope what I wrote is corect, hope someone can chime in if they see an error

 

Sir, Thank you for breaking it down to Sesame Street Level. I will probally ask some more questions as I start to get dirty. So much for cutting the grass this afternoon. Thanks again for the help and I will update whats going on later today.

 

Sir, I disconnected the 4 wires that go to the valve covers (they have oil in them).
Then disconnected the wires harness at the "silver box" on the fender well. I probed the connectors at the fenderwell and found some had cotenuity and some had resistance of about .5 Does this mean anything so far?
Thanks

 

OK if i did this right I have open curcuits on 1-3 and 3-5 (middle to two ends). no resistance on those pins sticking out from the valve cover plug that I pulled the wire harness off of.
On the wire harness side of the valve plug I have a closed curcuit (cotinuity) between 1-5 pins on all 4 plugs in fact all the #1 pins connect to all the #5 pins throught the 4 plugs
I am not sure what I did but its done.
I am confused do I have a badwire haness from the moduel to the 4 other plugs?.....I can see alot of red tape were other "Waldo's" have been before.
Thanks for your input

 

I dont want to think that the oil is a good thing, mine are dry with 215,000kms on them, as for resistance, I had some wires that ohmed out at .3, it'll give ya a rough idle but with .5 ohms, it should run, I'd be more concerned about having 8 wires with continunity, 1 wire for each injector and I think its 2 wires for the common or otherwise #3 wire for both plugs on each valve cover plug per cylinder bank. one common wire per cylinder bank.

remember, wires your testing is #1 #3 #5 so you should have 10 wires that are good.

Now that you have your valve covers unplugged, stick your ohm meter on your valve cover gasket pins test pin #1 to #3, you should ohm out no more than 3ohms, then check pins #3 and #5, once again, no more then 3 ohms. Do that to all 4 plugs and that will tell you your injectors, valve cover gasket and UVC harness is good, but I dont think you should have any oil in those valve cover plugs.

I ohmed out a little higher on one injector on my truck, if I recalled I ohmed out 4.8 ohms on my #7 cylinder. My truck has a missfire at idle..............

Also, I'm assuming you've checked all your fuses, am I correct?

 

My harness has red tap too.

if you test pin 1 and pin 3 on your ohm scale you should read about 3 ohms.

To test your wire harness you need to get a 10mm wrench and unbolt the wire harness from your modual. then check the wires from the plug on your modual to the wires at your 5 pin valve cover plugs

 

I did check all my fuses...all are good...before I get my facts mixed up....Let me go check the 1-3 and 3-5 pins once more on the valve covers....be back before you cant spell Rumplestilkskin properly

 

ok I checked 3 of the plugs coming from the valve covers....(the last plug is unplugged but the mutlimeter leads wont fit without taking off that solenoid)....i have an ope circuit (complete cotinuity) between 3-1, 3-5 2-4, 24 etc....all of them none have resistance.

 

Oh and the oil in the plug is just a light residue...I dont think there is a leak