Hook up the bleeder and pump some air in it. I flushed all the old fluid in the Master Cyl through because my mity vac has a hose that won't easily fit into the reservoir.
Do all the calipers and you're done. Just make sure you fill the reservoir with new fluid when the old stuff is pretty much drained, either by mity vac or by flushing through.
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Andy Early 99 F250 PSD 4x4 CC 6spd ----- CCV Mod, 6637 Filter, DP Tuner Chip, ITP Fuel Sys, Dahl Filter, Cat Delete, BD 4" Cat Back, 203* 230,000+ Miles
Last edited by cookie88; 08-30-2006 at 10:36 AM.
Reason: Pictures hyperlinked
Hey thanks for the instructions! I was just asking a buddy about doing the brake fluid on my truck this past weekend. Where did you get the device to add/remove the fluid?
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-Jason 00 f250 CC SB 4"lift, 35's, Fabtech tracbars, Detroit Locker, DP Tuner6, MAC intake, 7" Stacks, Tru-Speed, Rotella ELC, Beans Van Turbo WW ATS, 6.0 Tranny cooler, BTS TRANNY, ITP/BTS Fuel Syst. Waiting to Install: dusty parts boxes...
Good pics there FD. And I definately like using the different fluid colors. Smart idea there.
One tip to anyone who is getting ready to flush & bleed their brake system, it's reccomended to start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder then work your way to the one closest to it.
Something that I've used successfully on my motorcycles for years, and now on my PSD are Speed Bleeders. They are bleed screws that replace your stock ones. Simple to put in place, unscrew and remove old ones, screw new ones in. The unique thing about them is they have a 1-way check ball in them that will let old fluid and air out, but nothing back in. You just have to open the bleeder valve a bit, attach a hose to the end of it, then get in your truck and pump the brake pedal until the fluid is clear again. If I remember, they are less than $10 for a set of 2 at O'reilly's.
Just presenting another option for one man bleeding. Which I would reccomend to anyone to do. I didn't realize how bad my fluid was until I flushed it out. It was the color of used oil.
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Jeremy See My Webshots for pics.
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99.5 F-350 PSD 6-speed 4x4 “If you love wealth more than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, depart from us in peace. We ask not your counsel nor your arms. Crouch down and lick the hand that feeds you. May your chains rest lightly upon you and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen.” Samuel Adams
And to add to this: Brake fluid needs to be flushed every two years, regardless of mileage. It sucks water right out of the atmosphere and it gets diluted, even if you never remove the filler cap, which lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. That will increase the potential for brake fade.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
I am getting ready to do mine. I made a power bleeder using a 1 gallon sprayer that I already had and bought a new master cylinder cap that I connected hose to. Really easy and cheap. I will post some pics later.
Nice! I added a link to this thread to our Common Mods (& Maint.) thread in our sticky, and also added a link to the Superduty Tech Folder in the Superduty section.
Now you're famous!
I need to service my brakes soon... time for new rotors/pads, and may as well flush too. The pulsing is getting old and annoying.
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Ryan Arthur
* Sold * 2000 F350 7.3 CC LB DRW 4x4 4R100 4.10 Lariat
ISSPRO gauges, DIY Tymar, straight piped, ITP boost regulator/tee, ATS housing, BBHA, CCV Mod, SS HPX, DP-Tuner, BTS-VB, lots of LEDs, and more... My Truck Pics
And to add to this: Brake fluid needs to be flushed every two years, regardless of mileage. It sucks water right out of the atmosphere and it gets diluted, even if you never remove the filler cap, which lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. That will increase the potential for brake fade.
Are there any other symptons of bad fluid? I'm trying to figure out what's going on with my truck. I replaced the pads and rotors, but they still squeel like crazy. Did the job about 5k miles ago, took a look at the rotors this evning and they look perfect. Also they seem to be rubbing a little while driving, and yesterday while sitting at a light I heard / felt a strange clunk. Kind of like I hit a big pot whole. The brake peddle went to the floor. Once I took my foot off of it, it came back up and has been fine since.
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2002 F-350 4X4 CC PSD. straight pipe, k&n air box, tuner, 203 thermostat, mag-hytek tranny pan, tranny springs and valve, ranchhand bumper, air horns
Did you seat the brakes? For example, when I did mine I drove it out on a local road that is hardly used. I brought it up to 60 then slowed it down to about 5 then back to 60 and then a little harder down to 5, then back to 60 and back down to 5. Each time you do it a little harder and by the 8th or 10th time the brakes are really hot. The key is to not come to a complete stop before or during this critical break in period.
If you didn't do it, I would recommend it at this point. Another thing to conisider is you really don't want to ever come to a complete stop with hot brakes. That's when you get material transfer from the pads to the disk.
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Andy Early 99 F250 PSD 4x4 CC 6spd ----- CCV Mod, 6637 Filter, DP Tuner Chip, ITP Fuel Sys, Dahl Filter, Cat Delete, BD 4" Cat Back, 203* 230,000+ Miles
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