Brake Fluid flush made easy, with pics !

Fat Diesel · #1 (**permalink**) 08-28-2006, 03:53 PM

I got the power bleeder out and had the fluid flushed in no time.

Here is what I started with. I use the Blue and Amber versions of the same fluid so I know exactly when the fluid is flushed out.

Throw down some cardboard.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=126664&.jpg

Hook up the bleeder and pump some air in it. I flushed all the old fluid in the Master Cyl through because my mity vac has a hose that won't easily fit into the reservoir.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=126665&.jpg

Set up the catch can and turn the wrench.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=126666&.jpg

Wait until the fluid color changes and then close the bleeder.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=126667&.jpg

Do all the calipers and you're done. Just make sure you fill the reservoir with new fluid when the old stuff is pretty much drained, either by mity vac or by flushing through.

BowDown · #2 (**permalink**) 08-28-2006, 03:57 PM

Hmm. Sounds interesting. How much did it cost?

Fat Diesel · #3 (**permalink**) 08-28-2006, 05:19 PM

The Motive Products bleeder was around $50 as I recall.

yellow401 · #4 (**permalink**) 08-28-2006, 05:41 PM

Hey thanks for the instructions! I was just asking a buddy about doing the brake fluid on my truck this past weekend. Where did you get the device to add/remove the fluid?

Fat Diesel · #5 (**permalink**) 08-28-2006, 05:48 PM

Got it from:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Got the fluid from:

http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml

jtharvey · #6 (**permalink**) 08-28-2006, 10:15 PM

Good pics there FD. And I definately like using the different fluid colors. Smart idea there.

One tip to anyone who is getting ready to flush & bleed their brake system, it's reccomended to start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder then work your way to the one closest to it.

Something that I've used successfully on my motorcycles for years, and now on my PSD are Speed Bleeders. They are bleed screws that replace your stock ones. Simple to put in place, unscrew and remove old ones, screw new ones in. The unique thing about them is they have a 1-way check ball in them that will let old fluid and air out, but nothing back in. You just have to open the bleeder valve a bit, attach a hose to the end of it, then get in your truck and pump the brake pedal until the fluid is clear again. If I remember, they are less than $10 for a set of 2 at O'reilly's.

Just presenting another option for one man bleeding. Which I would reccomend to anyone to do. I didn't realize how bad my fluid was until I flushed it out. It was the color of used oil.

Tenn01PSD350 · #7 (**permalink**) 08-28-2006, 10:40 PM

Again, great stuff here. My to do list grows yet again.

jetdoc · #8 (**permalink**) 08-29-2006, 06:36 AM

Good info...Great pics!!

Kwikkordead · #9 (**permalink**) 08-29-2006, 08:42 AM

And to add to this: Brake fluid needs to be flushed every two years, regardless of mileage. It sucks water right out of the atmosphere and it gets diluted, even if you never remove the filler cap, which lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. That will increase the potential for brake fade.

HeatStroked · #10 (**permalink**) 08-30-2006, 09:07 AM

One man job once you get these installed...

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

jtharvey · #11 (**permalink**) 08-30-2006, 09:52 AM

Heat, those are exactly what I was talking about using in my earlier post. Thanks for the link!!

hink10 · #12 (**permalink**) 08-30-2006, 11:26 AM

I am getting ready to do mine. I made a power bleeder using a 1 gallon sprayer that I already had and bought a new master cylinder cap that I connected hose to. Really easy and cheap. I will post some pics later.

ryaneverk2 · #13 (**permalink**) 08-30-2006, 03:57 PM

Nice! I added a link to this thread to our Common Mods (& Maint.) thread in our sticky, and also added a link to the Superduty Tech Folder in the Superduty section.

Now you're famous!

I need to service my brakes soon... time for new rotors/pads, and may as well flush too. The pulsing is getting old and annoying.

rmilchman · #14 (**permalink**) 08-30-2006, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kwikkordead

And to add to this: Brake fluid needs to be flushed every two years, regardless of mileage. It sucks water right out of the atmosphere and it gets diluted, even if you never remove the filler cap, which lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. That will increase the potential for brake fade.

Are there any other symptons of bad fluid? I'm trying to figure out what's going on with my truck. I replaced the pads and rotors, but they still squeel like crazy. Did the job about 5k miles ago, took a look at the rotors this evning and they look perfect. Also they seem to be rubbing a little while driving, and yesterday while sitting at a light I heard / felt a strange clunk. Kind of like I hit a big pot whole. The brake peddle went to the floor. Once I took my foot off of it, it came back up and has been fine since.

Fat Diesel · #15 (**permalink**) 08-30-2006, 06:25 PM

Did you seat the brakes? For example, when I did mine I drove it out on a local road that is hardly used. I brought it up to 60 then slowed it down to about 5 then back to 60 and then a little harder down to 5, then back to 60 and back down to 5. Each time you do it a little harder and by the 8th or 10th time the brakes are really hot. The key is to not come to a complete stop before or during this critical break in period.

If you didn't do it, I would recommend it at this point. Another thing to conisider is you really don't want to ever come to a complete stop with hot brakes. That's when you get material transfer from the pads to the disk.