thats amazing, I just built one of these for my jeep and truck and then I come on here and it was in the recent reply thing on the front page, heres how I did mine http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm cost 25-30 bucks, still waiting for RTV to dry so I can't tell how it works right now but it should be good
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'79 F-150 351M.... Check out PORC.Purdue.Org Purdue Offroad Club
here is a question in relation to this brake bleeding deal, but off topic too. i bled my brakes the other week, and was surprised at the greenish-black gunk that came out. they had never been bled before as the bleeder screw on the LR caliper twisted right off at the flange of the caliper and the screw. it is just a flat surface now with a hole in the center. didn't even budge inside the caliper. do i need to get a new caliper or can i get that screw out somehow?
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2002 F-350 Thats been nothing but a waste of time and alot of money!
Uhhh, Kris, you have a problem. I'd try some of the normal methods for extracting a broken screw. A little penetrating oil, let it sit. Use a screw extractor to try and back the thing out. Problem is, IIRC, the bleeder screw is a soft metal and the extractor will most likely just tear up the bleeer. Give a little heat to the caliper around the screw, but not the screw itself. Don't worry about the fluid in the caliper, since you can bleed it out later. But, don't get it too hot or you will burn/melt the rubber seals around the pistons.
I guess it's up to you to decide whether or not to try and get it out. I priced new calipers, witout pads, a couple days ago. The passenger side is sticking when hot - new slide pins last year, so that shouldn't be it. Wheel is hard to turn when jacked up. Most likely caused by the pistons not fully retracting caused by dirt around the seals, and the pad rubbing the rotor. Anyway, the new calipers from O'rielly' are under $40. Is it worth it to fight a stuck bleeder for $40? That's up to you.
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Jeremy See My Webshots for pics.
i would gladly pay forty dollars. i was planning on spending $250+ from the dealer. thanks for the info i guess i will try to extract the screw for fun but end up paying $35 for the new bleeder screw.
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2002 F-350 Thats been nothing but a waste of time and alot of money!
BTW, I'm pretty sure the calipers are remans, since they require a core, but that shouldn't matter. All they probably do is clean up the caliper, replace the seals, and possibly new pistons if needed. There's not much more to a caliper than that.
And, they want $250 for those things at the dealer?!?! I'd hope that at least includes new pads & new caliper brackets, in addition to the caliper itself.
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Jeremy See My Webshots for pics.
BTW, I'm pretty sure the calipers are remans, since they require a core, but that shouldn't matter. All they probably do is clean up the caliper, replace the seals, and possibly new pistons if needed. There's not much more to a caliper than that.
And, they want $250 for those things at the dealer?!?! I'd hope that at least includes new pads & new caliper brackets, in addition to the caliper itself.
no, i havent checked there yet. i was just guesstimating $250 just so i wouldn't be surprised when i actually found out how much they were.
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2002 F-350 Thats been nothing but a waste of time and alot of money!
Kris as you get more experience with working on cars and trucks you will learn when to stop pushing against the wrench because that bolt (or bleeder) is going to break.
It's sort of an art more than a science.
Lot's of Free-All always helps.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
I have had an issue with my rear brakes (97 250HD PSD 4x4)locking up sometimes. Last week while towing a 5000lb trailer the rear drivers sdie locked up and started smokin'.
I saw the TSB about the brakes locking due to handbrake cable problems, and moisture problems also. Anyone else fixed this on their own lately? Should I replace the shoes with organic? What is the deal on the brake cable? Thanks
Do you need to pump the pedal or will the pressure push the new fluid out? Any concerns regarding the ABS pump? Any special precautions to take with the ABS pump?
How did you drain the MC first? Suck it out, or crack the lines and pump it out?
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John
2008 F350, 6.4, Crew Cab, King Ranch, 4WD, SRW, 68,000 miles and counting.
2001 F250, 7.3, Crew Cab, Lariat, 2WD. 329,000 miles and appears to be dead...
The pressure from the power bleeder will push the fluid out the bleeders at each wheel. I have ABS and didn't take any special precautions either time. You can drain the MC first if you have a mity vac or something with a small enough tube. Take the cap off and look and you'll see what I mean. Last time I did it by pushing it through the system. Make sure you push MOST of the fluid out of the MC and then add new fluid, you don't want it to go dry in there.
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Andy Early 99 F250 PSD 4x4 CC 6spd ----- CCV Mod, 6637 Filter, DP Tuner Chip, ITP Fuel Sys, Dahl Filter, Cat Delete, BD 4" Cat Back, 203* 230,000+ Miles
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