2.8L 84 Bronco II idle problems
#16
OK everyone. I've about had it. I am now on a mission to get this thing running. I live in the emissions required zones in CO, so I can't get rid of the emissions stuff yet.
I checked the float level last weekend - it's fine. So now I'm down to vacuum. I found the vacuum diagrams on AutoZone, but they are just copies of the stickers on the front of the engine compartment. I've started deciphering them myself and I'll post pics here to see if any one else can lend a hand and maybe we can use them to help each other.
RONEV - I think this is the hose you were talking about. Does this help??
I checked the float level last weekend - it's fine. So now I'm down to vacuum. I found the vacuum diagrams on AutoZone, but they are just copies of the stickers on the front of the engine compartment. I've started deciphering them myself and I'll post pics here to see if any one else can lend a hand and maybe we can use them to help each other.
RONEV - I think this is the hose you were talking about. Does this help??
#17
Ya dude thats it. Your set up is a little different than mine. I changed out a few parts from my donor carb and the stuff I got from the upull it yard. the thing with the two wires coming out was in a different spot than yours. Yours seem to look more functional where its located Are all your hoses connected up behind the carb. Mine has a one large port the the back left of the carb that has about 4 various sized hoses coming off. Are you at in Colorado Springs?
#18
Here's what I'm trying to figure out next. Where are these supposed to go? The yellow vacuum line (red arrow) appears to be part of the IAS (idle air solenoid) circuit. The diagram shows it coming out of the IAS solenoid valve and connecting to something called A/CLOV or A/CLDV? Does anyone have this connected? where?
The other hose is the black one coming off of what I think is the thermactor air control valve. The diagram shows three connections to this. My setup has three hoses that are about as 3/4in. The one that is unconnected (the other red arrow) is only about as big as a straw. When the engine is running - there is no air movement observed on this tube. Is it supposed to be connected somewhere?
The second picture is the vacuum diagram I'm working from...
(I'm up near Denver...)
The other hose is the black one coming off of what I think is the thermactor air control valve. The diagram shows three connections to this. My setup has three hoses that are about as 3/4in. The one that is unconnected (the other red arrow) is only about as big as a straw. When the engine is running - there is no air movement observed on this tube. Is it supposed to be connected somewhere?
The second picture is the vacuum diagram I'm working from...
(I'm up near Denver...)
#19
Originally Posted by RONEV
Are all your hoses connected up behind the carb. Mine has a one large port the the back left of the carb that has about 4 various sized hoses coming off. Are you at in Colorado Springs?
I'm up near Denver. (Time to hit it...)
#20
is the one you are asking about kind of orange colored? I think that one is supposed to connect to the plastic valve on the air cleaner housing, with the tube on the bottom that pulls air in off the header when the engine is cold. Mine's not hooked up either. It would only produce a vacuum leak when the engine is cold, i think.
if the ranger would pass emissions with duraspark i am going to do that. all this emission garbage just makes it run bad.
if the ranger would pass emissions with duraspark i am going to do that. all this emission garbage just makes it run bad.
#21
I feel your pain......................Those feedback EEC carbs are impossible to tune as all the parts age.........................I durasparked my 84 2.8 Ranger and never looked back, a 2150 or 2100 Motorcraft non-feedback carb off another older 2.8 or 302 works wonders and no feedback EEC crap to mess with.
#22
#23
The time has come for you to dura spark it. After 26 years that 2150 EEC feedback carb is terminal, most likely none of the emiss. controls it ran in concert with still function anyway............Scrap it, do the dura spark dist conversion, get a good 2100/2150 off a older 2.8 or 302 and rid your self of all that wiring, vacuum hoses and computer. Its not that big a job, costs under $200.00 for parts, and it will run better than new with more power and better mpg.
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