66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
#1
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
I have recently purchased a 66 F-100 that I want to re-paint in the original 2 tone red/white paint. I have a couple questions that I would appreciate any info on.
1. Sourcing the original colors is no problem. However, where can I find some specs or very good pictures that show the original paint scheme. (i.e. Exactly where does the red stop and the white start on the box and cab?) I need to give something to the paint shop.
2. Where can I source mouldings for the box and front fenders.
1. Sourcing the original colors is no problem. However, where can I find some specs or very good pictures that show the original paint scheme. (i.e. Exactly where does the red stop and the white start on the box and cab?) I need to give something to the paint shop.
2. Where can I source mouldings for the box and front fenders.
#2
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
Hi Taylor, Welcome to Ford heaven...as to the split between colors, kinda hard to describe, but, if you have some local junkyards with these rigs, I would bet ya you would find one with the tutone paint. To the best of my knowlege the tutone was done but one way...same 65-6 and possibly 64(cab/nose would be same, bed mldg split would differ depending on which bed)
I have a tutone white one...weird, but a 66 cab tutone awaiting its new home...tutone...Anyway, the split is mainly the body side mldgs...the line does carry over into the tailgate jamb and across the skin side of it. The hood has a tiny sliver which runs with molding and does a 90 degree turn inboard under ledge of hood. Doors are split w/molding. Door jambs are lower color I believe. rear area of cab is same as roof, splits at either the molding running across rear of cab area OR it breaks at the inside area where side goes up....the area kinda like a 90 degree body line bend where it goes up....Firewall is lower color.
As I said earlier, it would be easiest to find a truck with the paint scheme and burn some film...pix make it a whole lot easier to understand than words alone.
Hope This Helps, 65CS
I have a tutone white one...weird, but a 66 cab tutone awaiting its new home...tutone...Anyway, the split is mainly the body side mldgs...the line does carry over into the tailgate jamb and across the skin side of it. The hood has a tiny sliver which runs with molding and does a 90 degree turn inboard under ledge of hood. Doors are split w/molding. Door jambs are lower color I believe. rear area of cab is same as roof, splits at either the molding running across rear of cab area OR it breaks at the inside area where side goes up....the area kinda like a 90 degree body line bend where it goes up....Firewall is lower color.
As I said earlier, it would be easiest to find a truck with the paint scheme and burn some film...pix make it a whole lot easier to understand than words alone.
Hope This Helps, 65CS
#3
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
I think I managed to get mine exactly as it should be.There are a few problem areas: Firewall, front of hood, at rear of doors, and from rearmost part of moulding across the tailgate. Let me know exactly where you're having trouble and I'll try to find some photos.
Eric D
Eric D
#4
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
Go To www.#####.com/visit.asp?2590 and click on the pictures links
all the way at the bottom is Borks Beast, go in his gallery and check it out. It's not my truck, but i found it surfing yesterday. Good liioking representation of what I believe is a correct paint scheme.
all the way at the bottom is Borks Beast, go in his gallery and check it out. It's not my truck, but i found it surfing yesterday. Good liioking representation of what I believe is a correct paint scheme.
#5
#6
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
The gate and rear of bed area is pretty easy, it a carry over/on from the bed side area straight across...the gate split area is parallel with it, which from all I have seen are basicly even with the centerline of the bed molding clip holes. ...about 2 1/4" from bottom of bed side seam.
#7
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
I'll throw a monkey wrench in. I have a 66 f-250 that is in the shop for a re-paint now. The "origional" paint on this truck (which is what I am painting over), was all red (rangoon red) the only exception is the top of the cab, (over the door channel, down the rear of the cab, to the bed height, [or to where the cab starts to flair out]. It then runs across the back of the cab about 1 inch above the height of the bed. this color is called Wimbeldon white.
the moulding is availiable from Carolina Classics. This is the only place that I have found that sells the entire set (front to back), many others sell the bed only. The entire set sells for about $550.00, but if you have ever tried to clean up old ones, you'll know that this is worth it.
Hope this helps, I'll post pictures in a couple weeks (when the sweet 250 is all dressed up.
the moulding is availiable from Carolina Classics. This is the only place that I have found that sells the entire set (front to back), many others sell the bed only. The entire set sells for about $550.00, but if you have ever tried to clean up old ones, you'll know that this is worth it.
Hope this helps, I'll post pictures in a couple weeks (when the sweet 250 is all dressed up.
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#8
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Jun-02 AT 00:53 AM (EST)]If you're still interested, I HAD a red/white 1966 F-100, which was my very first vehicle back in 1976, which I still have some pictures of. I could email them if still needed some ideas. I just bought a 1965 this year....the year of my mid-life crisis.
Brian {okie62@flash.net}
1965 F-100
Brian {okie62@flash.net}
1965 F-100
#9
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
Just some thoughts: (Using Wimbleton white, like on my truck, painted on the areas I am mentioningUnder the hood is painted the same as top of hood, the cowl is painted straight accross, stopping at the metal body seam going horizontally accross the top of firewall. The entire exterior of the cowl is painted, right down to where the fender starts. The ENTIRE door jambs are painted the main body color. The upper door 2-tone color does NOT continue into the jamb area or inside the doors. The inside top edge of the bed sides are painted; follow the paint line around the front wall of the bed, and follow a line accross the inside of the tailgate area. If your bed does not line up with the cab, don't paint the 2 tone as if it does! Hope this may help someone!
#10
#12
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
To the best of my knowlege(correct me if I am wrong guys) the I/S of the fender structure thats under the hood which the bolts go thru is same as fender color, no split at all. Hood I/S latch mount area is same as under hood main color. fender aprons and radiator core support are black.
Engine(352) is black w/gold valve covers.
The paint split cutoff area on the doors is the weatherstrip area. The cab door jamb is as mentioned above. The cowl split area ends in the groove area in the cab doorjamb.
I bet there is a trick that the guys used when shooting our trucks when they were originally built...sure would like to know it!!!!
One other sidenote on the hood split area, My lower color on the O/S(what little there was) was run under the 2"seam to the edge where it ended...weird indeed...I played heck studying mine as I got a tutone white rig(CM)
Hope This Helps!!!
Engine(352) is black w/gold valve covers.
The paint split cutoff area on the doors is the weatherstrip area. The cab door jamb is as mentioned above. The cowl split area ends in the groove area in the cab doorjamb.
I bet there is a trick that the guys used when shooting our trucks when they were originally built...sure would like to know it!!!!
One other sidenote on the hood split area, My lower color on the O/S(what little there was) was run under the 2"seam to the edge where it ended...weird indeed...I played heck studying mine as I got a tutone white rig(CM)
Hope This Helps!!!
#13
66 F-100 Paint and Moulding
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Jun-02 AT 09:42 PM (EST)]The tops of the fenders are painted the same color as the fenders themselves. Use "Ford Semi-Gloss Black" for fenderwells and core support and battery box. Don't use flat or regular gloss black here. The lower firewall is NOT black, but the main body color, as is the underside of the cab itself. The cowl section where the top 3 hood hinge bolts on each side attach to is the same 2 tone color as the rest of the cowl. The area where the bottom hinge bolt on each side attaches to is the same color as the fenders and the rest of the firewall. The cowl weatherstrip was nailed (yes, nailed) on to the truck after paint, the entire upper cowl section is the 2 tone color. In '66, the 300 6 finally had the ford blue block.
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