dsldan, the oil isn't the most attractive stuff, it just doesn't look like a milkshake! The oil only had about 2000mi when this occurred so it was relatively clean. You can smell the AF in the oil. I've determined that this is going over my head for the tools and experience I have with diesels so my friend that maintains the public service fleet of powerstrokes here in fort collins has stepped in to help me out. He is a fully updated diesel tech. His theory is that if the oil coller isn't the culprit then it is probably an oring on one of the cylinder sleeves. He believes that the 7.3 is bulletproof and wouldn't crack a block or head. With my truck having a new shortblock installed at 20,000mi is what has him wondering about the orings. I will definately post what he finds here so that hopefully someone else will know what the problem is when it happens to them. OOHHHH it's gonna hurt me in the wallet I just know!
The only problem with that is the 7.3 does not have sleeved cylinders. I do agree that it is unlikely the block or heads ar cracked. Short of that the front cover, oil cooler, and block heater are the only places the coolant and oil can reach each other....I think.
Did you ever refill the coolant reservoir to see if it will leak down static?
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Scott - FTE moderator
His: 01 F-250 Lariat, 7.3, ZF-6, NV271. A few mods.
Hers: 98 Navigator, 5.4, AT, 4x4, Old.....but still a Lincoln ;-)
Yea I did cookie and it didn't leak down when it was refilled. Seems to only happen under pressure. I have to rely on my buddy cause I ain't going back to ford again. When they did the motor swap they broke the turbo pedastile, water pump leaked, powersteering whined, harmonic balancer was bad and scratched my truck all up on the front fenders. My friend said he has never had to pull a powerstroke motor yet because they are supposed to be bulletproof. I know I'm over my head..... Thank-you very much Cookie for your help.....
Well guys finally figured it out. The problem turns out to be a cracked block between the #4 and #5 mains. This allowed the antifreeze to pour in at a good rate once the motor got hot. Pulled the motor once and check the front timing cover thought we found something so we put it back in and wa-la the same problem. So we pulled it back out and when we removed the pan we saw a line of antifreeze across the block underneath. Got a motor out of the junkyard with 70,000 miles on it and stuck it in. Truck runs good now. My friend that helped me is a diesel mechanic for a living and he said he has never seen a cracked block on a powerstroke before. Had to be me I guess! lol..... Glad the nightmare is over, I've been on the road for about 3 weeks now and does it ever feel good to have my Powerstroke back! Nothing like a diesel... Thanks for everyones help on this whole ordeal......
Hey banshee, what mods are on youre truck? Just trying to feel out that fine line between having lots of power and staying safe. Is it cold where you are? Did youre AF freeze? Thanks
Thanks for the help guys, as for mods all my truck has on it is a 4" exhaust and an AFE airbox and I run the smallest program that my supertuner has on it all the time. It dyno's out at 700 ft.lbs. torque and 317 hp. Not much for this motor. My friend and I believe that the replacemant short block that was installed by the local dealership was installed incorrectly. Cause I had major problems when I got it back from them at 20,000 miles.
One thing I was wondering is why the vavle cover on the motor I put in has a sticker on it that says 250hp and my valve cover on mine says 235hp. What is the difference? My truck has a six speed in it and the motor came out of one with an automatic. But wouldn't an automatic suck more hp out of a motor? Or is there something more they do to an automatic trucks motor? I cant tell the difference anyway if it does have 15 more horses, just wondering..... Thanks. >>Danny<<
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