Greetings all. Well, I finished the brake rebuild/replacement, got the rims sandblasted and powder-coated, new tires, shocks, etc. But I notice that my King Pins are bad (at least the right one). The local parts store said they could get a king pin replacement kit for ~$45. Is this a job that me and a friend could do in the garage? Any special tools involved? Do I have to get the bushings reamed? What should I watch out for? Remember, I am a novice mechanic and I am learning as I go.

I look forward to your advice and guidance.

Thanks! Brian K.

http://www.ford-trucks.net/users/1965f250/

 

It is Brian, if the pins come out. My first try at this job ended with removal of the entire I-beam assemblies and delivery to a pro with a press because even after getting them almost red hot with a (rented) torch and pounding on them they would not budge. I did it again last month on junkyard beams and the pins smoothly slid out. However, I took them to the pro for reaming. If I knew how to use a reamer, which I do not, I would not have found one to rent or borrow anyway. I've heard that if you choose nylon bushings you just stick them in.
Eric

 

Can you do it yourself? yes. But,( there is always a but ) as Eric sez it can be frustrating. Some come out easy some need a press. As far as reams you can buy a set at any good Tool store. They can be a bit pricey, high carbon steel etc., but consider it a once in a life time purchase for a good set. My advice is to try it. The worst that can happen is that you will have to take them to a shop. Make sure you have a good manuel with the correct specs. I have done three in the driveway. One I had to take to a shop. Good luck.

Jim

 

Remove the I Beams and have the pins and bushings pressed out. Use a replacement King Pin kit with nylon bushings. No reaming necessary and next time you need to get them out you will be able to do it without removing the I beams. Also replace the I Beam and radius arm rubber bushings. I reassemble the I beams and spindle in a vice on a bench. Take your time and put in all the shims needed. Use a feeler gage to measure the slack between the spindle and I beam. This will help you choose the correct shim thickness. It goes bearing, spindle, shims from the bottom up. Use one of the old pins in conjunction with a new pin to get everything lined up, then push the new pin all the way in. Top to bottom or bottom to top makes no difference. Just keep it tight. Use a punch to line up the retaining bolt slot. Use a pry bar to check for slack between the spindle and I beam. None is good as long as you can move the spindle by hand.
William in Atlanta

 

This is interesting. I didn't know they made plastic bushings. This must only be for the twin I-beam trucks? I've never seen them for the earlier solid axles. When I replaced the king pins and bushings (brass)on my 53, I had to have them reamed. There was no way that pin was going into the new bushings. They must make them undersized or pressing them in spindle shrinks them. I wonder about durability of the nylon type. I guess they don't need grease either?

 

You would think that by now, someone would have come up with a bearing type conversion for these spindles rather than just using bushings.
Krosati

 

Not sure about the older straight axles but I use nylon bushings in the Twin I Beam suspensions because they are easy to install, don't require reaming and last for many years. I do lube mine.
William in Atlanta

 

I have a 1999 Ford F250 Super Duty 4x4 powerstroke diesel.Manuel locking hubs. My right front seals are leaking. There are no grease fittings on the king pins, just bearings I think. How do I get the King pins out so I can change the seals.It's a 1998 Dana axel.Can someone send me a diagram or instructions PLEASE.
Thanks, Jerry

 

I am gathering front end goodies for my 65 CS...badly bent I Beams... I fornd a 76 with good k/pins, question I have is this 67 has 2 1/2" wide drums and my 65 has the 2 1/8" ...I have heard that the spindles are same from 65-early 71 w/2 1/8" brakes...anyone ever put the 2 1/2" brakes up there??? I am worried about body clearance as I have VERY little betw. tire and fender in turning radius. Also, will my split rims be any different as to offset from the solid 67 type wheels?? I am trying to get away from doing kingpins as the doner truck is a clean rig......Any suggestions????

Thanks, 65CS

PS, both have a 6000GVW and the 67 is a very early 67 at that.

 

Anyone know about the drum/front end interchangability issue I posted above??? 65CS

 

65CS, I read your post twice and I am still confused? You have a 65 Camper Special and want to replace some damaged components and use a wider front drum setup? Also you plan to retain the split rims? Usually people want to replace drums with disks and split rims with safety rims. As for the King pin issue, select the components you will retain, and have the king pins and bushings pressed out. The shop that does this work can install the new bushings and ream them to fit. You can reassemble the spindles, drums and I-Beams or have the shop do that also. Installation of an I-Beam and spindle assembly is easy, you can do that and no special tools or skills are needed. I expect those slightly wider drums will not be an issue and the split rims will fit the spindles the same as before. I recommend however that you consider using disk brakes and safety rims. Post back and we can help.
William in Atlanta

 

 

Hi All, The reason I wanna keep the split rims is so I can use the correct 65 hubcaps as the later wheels/caps snapped on the outside of the wheel hub and the splits snap on the inside of the wheel hub. I am pretty sure I have found a later front end...gotta jack it up and check for tweaked axles and kingpin slop...its an early 71 from what I can tell...anyone up on the build dates for the 70 & 71 rigs??? Just wanna have a better idea as to how early the truck is...

Thx, 65CS

 

65CS, I would use I Beams and drum brake assemblies from as new a truck as you can find. Personally I prefer 76 and newer. I have seen trucks in the Junk Yards with drum brakes all around. The I Beams are the same for disk and drum and Moog has a part number for the complete steering linkage set. Check with your local NAPA Dealer for that.
William in Atlanta